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Need help!! Mantic clutch issue.

FoMoCoMoFo16

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2016 GT PP and mine is on point.
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MacKinnon654

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You need to figure out if you're blowing up your slaves. Might need to bleed them better or possibly missing a shim behind the slave. If Geoff says the clutch itself is good it's good. He's a stand up guy and extremely helpful in my experience.
Do you mean literally blowing up lol? Ive done the vacuum procedure for 8 hours on my master reservoir. Made no difference. Still having issues getting the trans out of gear under decel. No shim is provided with the kit. I'm not questioning Geoff's integrity, he's been helping me try to work through it but I've found about 5 people that have had this exact same issue so there should be a common consensus on the fix.
 

MacKinnon654

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While slave cylinder is always a factor to be checked and proper bleeding is a major factor, it's not the only thing going on here. I'm guessing you put in a 9000 series (organic or ceramitallic doesn't matter) and if that's is the case, it is an extremely light setup with small diameter discs and it is slowing its rotation much quicker than a stock or near stock setup. This is excellent for racing applications where off throttle is helpful in slowing the car down but not so helpful on regular street driving applications because as you decide to switch from gear to gear, while letting off the accelerator, it is already trying to slow the engine due to lack of inertia causing tension pressure between the engine and transmission with the clutch being the gateway . This is part of the problem of the resistance in the shifter coming out of gear in casual shifting. Stock or near oem replacement clutches factor this in especially for the masses of daily driving a car. Don't get me wrong; I absolutely love the Mantic clutches and have installed three of them including my car and they are all the smoothest, noiseless and soft pedal actuated I've been around and its not a small thing. I unfortunately had to change out of my Mantic when I switched to the Tremec Magnum XL with a 2.66 first gear as I needed the weight and mass to help drive that trans better.

See if slightly aggressive/exagerated(?) shifting on the street helps your situation.
Did you actually experience these issues in the mantic's you installed?
 

FoMoCoMoFo16

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When I bled mine or primed it really. I took it and rolled it over to get the air bubbles to naturally float up towards the fitting. Then pumped it some more. Let it sit until the fluid had no more air suspended in it. Then repeated that process until you couldn't even tell I was pumping it other than the fluid level going up and down.

I didn't need a shim either but I know some years do. Maybe 11-14 maybe 18+ I cannot recall because I don't need it.

Putting vacuum on the system isn't going to get a bubble trapped in the slave cylinder out. Imagine a straw with your finger over the bottom and a bubble above your finger. Suck all you want that bubble isn't coming out.

Only thing I can think of that might help is jacking up the driver side or parking at an extreme angle and trying to work the air out.

You seem to have a hydraulic issue to me not a clutch issue. I don't see a refund in your future.

What's more likely you and a few others got bad clutches that tested good or you and a few others have a installation problem with the slave cylinder or the hydraulic system?

There is also a process to measure height of the clutch and the throw of the slave cylinder in relation to the flywheel.

There is also a chance you have an issue with the transmission.
 
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I've given up. Sent it back, he looked it over said it was good, I installed it again with a new slave, bench bled it, vaccum pumped it and it still gets stuck in gear, also it has a new characteristic now which is falling in its face between shifts, as if the clutch grabs again, like after I shift I quickly tap the brake. I'm over it. Geoff wants to rebuild it with solid hubs. Had a McLeod in right before this clutch and zero issues.
 

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Platinum_5.0

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Considering going with Lethals new LPXHD twin disk. It's basically a McLeod RXT but a little more forgiving disks.
 

db252

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That sucks and has to be completely frustrating. Of the three I’ve installed, they are still in the road and they never talk about it so they must work flawlessly for them. Sometimes it’s just a bad go with whatever car.
Did you consider Tilton? Centerforce? Going back to McLeod?
 

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This has happened to two of my TOBs now with the mantic twin and t56 mag pairing. I did a measurement the second time and it came in a little under spec at .450” of tob preload distance, whereas it should be at .500-.650”

I will be pulling the trans again and adding a .100” spacer to see if that resolves the issue.

Other symptoms I’ve experienced:

1. Difficulty engaging first and reverse (never locked out or anything but just not easy).
2. Slight grinding noise when trying to enter a gear like 1st or reverse when at a stop or when coming to a stop and downshifting. Also grinds if I extend the clutch pedal really hard to the floor.
3. When starting the car, I sometimes have to press the clutch pedal very hard, like there is a little barrier I have to get past to get the switch to activate. I can feel a pop in the pedal that has to be overcome; the green light on the start button won’t light up until I do this.
4. I can’t quick shift at high load; it will lock me out. Like hitting a wall.

If these issues aren’t resolved with the spacer, or at least mitigated somewhat, I’ll be switching to a McLeod RXT I have laying around.
 
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Platinum_5.0

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This has happened to two of my TOBs now with the mantic twin and t56 mag pairing. I did a measurement the second time and it came in a little under spec at .450” of tob preload distance, whereas it should be at .500-.650”

I will be pulling the trans again and adding a .100” spacer to see if that resolves the issue.

Other symptoms I’ve experienced:

1. Difficulty engaging first and reverse (never locked out or anything but just not easy).
2. Slight grinding noise when trying to enter a gear like 1st or reverse when at a stop or when coming to a stop and downshifting. Also grinds if I extend the clutch pedal really hard to the floor.
3. When starting the car, I sometimes have to press the clutch pedal very hard, like there is a little barrier I have to get past to get the switch to activate. I can feel a pop in the pedal that has to be overcome; the green light on the start button won’t light up until I do this.
4. I can’t quick shift at high load; it will lock me out. Like hitting a wall.

If these issues aren’t resolved with the spacer, or at least mitigated somewhat, I’ll be switching to a McLeod RXT I have laying around.
Interested to see if the spacer helps at all.
 
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Platinum_5.0

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That sucks and has to be completely frustrating. Of the three I’ve installed, they are still in the road and they never talk about it so they must work flawlessly for them. Sometimes it’s just a bad go with whatever car.
Did you consider Tilton? Centerforce? Going back to McLeod?
Yeah looking at the Spec twin, RXT or Lethal Twin
 

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madlag

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also interested to see what the outcome is. I'm having the similar "stuck" in gear issues with my mantic...
 

FoMoCoMoFo16

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I'm starting to think my master cylinder is slowly dying. Still don't have any issues power shifting but occasionally I feel some resistance driving around town. I'll try to remember to update this page after I figure out what I'm going to replace it with. Hoping to find something better than stock maybe a GT350 master cylinder if it's not identical.
 

madlag

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I'm starting to think my master cylinder is slowly dying. Still don't have any issues power shifting but occasionally I feel some resistance driving around town. I'll try to remember to update this page after I figure out what I'm going to replace it with. Hoping to find something better than stock maybe a GT350 master cylinder if it's not identical.
Just heard from mantic this:

We’ve had a couple instances of where the car will actually over stroke the clutch a little bit…just enough to where the fingers of the clutch hit the springs in the top disc. That drag will cause it not to go into gear as well as not downshift well.

apparently there is a new pedal stop you can get from them. Also, how far from the floor does your clutch start disengaging? mine is immediately...not sure I have a 1/2" to spare...
 

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So this turned out to be the issue when I pulled the mantic. It was having difficulties until one day I couldn’t engage at all and had to tow the car home. Pulled the trans and clutch to find the spring had completely come out of the hub. I never got to add the spacer to see if it would have alleviated the engagement issues (or outright prevented this from happening in the first place).

I decided to just rebuild my old rxt to an rxt1200 and forego the mantic for the time being. I’ve driven the rxt for about 50 miles now and while I don’t like the pedal feel as much since it’s a good bit heavier, there are no problems with engagement at all. It engages a little farther in than the mantic but I haven’t felt any fight back from it.

I think the RXT might be the less risky clutch to go with the T56 combo, and it’s a good bit cheaper.

Hopefully it holds well when I put some power through it.

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FoMoCoMoFo16

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My pedal is medium high. I don't have to get anywhere near the floor to shift. I like it that way because I can shift fast as fuck. If I had to guess at 50 to 75 percent towards the floor I'm fully disengaged.
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