Need first time track advice

[AZ_Ryan]

I'm thinking of meeting my Porsche owner friend for a first time track day at Willow Springs CA with my M1 in December. But I have questions and need advice from the experts on working out the logistics when it comes to tires, driving out there, and prepping the car.

I will be by driving by myself, so there is no room for an extra set of tires or equipment. So my first question is the tires. I currently run Conti Extreme Contact 2s with 35 profile as my daily drivers. My plan would be to put on my old set (with good tread) of stock size PS4s and drive out there the night before, hit the track the next day, and drive back on day 3. Its a 400 mile one way drive (6.5 hours) from Phoenix. I've read on this forum that the PS4s are fine for beginner track fun. Apparently that's what the use at the Mach 1 Tack Attack. But I'm concerned how well the tires will hold up after a track day AND driving on them long distance back home afterward. I don't not want to buy another set of tires, and have no interest in driving long distance on Cup 2s, especially after chewing them up on the track. Will the PS4s hold up ok for the drive back or is this a bad idea?

My other question is car prep. I've heard you can really beat up your cars paint and finish on the track from debris. I have Steeda springs on the car now, and took off the fender flares for clearance. The car will almost certainly rub on the track if I put the flares back on with PS4s and those springs. Which means I probably wont have much paint protection from kicking up road debris with those wide tires sticking out up front. I'm wondering how exposed my paint will be realistically as a beginner track driver? I currently have PPF on the front, ceramic on the rest of the car, and small mud flaps up front. Is it necessary or recommended to use anything else anything to protect their cars on the track?

Any other feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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[FeebleExpert]

PS4S will be fine for a track day, and a solid tire to introduce yourself to HPDEs. I would recommend approaching it as a fun learning experience, and not treat it as a race. Meaning keep in the back of your mind that you need your tires and car to survive for the drive home. As the day goes on rubber will begin to accumulate on the sides of the track, so keep your lines clean, and take a cool down lap to scrub your tires a bit. I would also recommend keeping your sessions shorter if you want to err on the safe side. You don't have to be out there the entire 20 minutes they give you or whatever.

As far as debris goes, anytime you track your car it's a risk I suppose, but normally it'll be ok after one day. I'm sure you'll get dings, scratches etc if you make a habit of going to the track though. Hell anytime you drive your car on the road you risk something happening to your finish. Try not to sweat it.

 

[NightmareMoon]

You get little black marks from rubber which gets kicked up and bounces off the paint. Its difficult to clean off but it comes off with the right product. A road course isn usually clear of gravel as long as you stay on it, and nobody tracks a bunch of crud back on track from an off course excursion. So I dont find its usually very hard on paint. I’d be more worried about the 400 miles of bugs.

Older MP4S will be fine. New ones can chunk on cars with inadequate camber if you overdrive and overheat them. Usually after a few thousand miles they harden up enough they will take most any abuse.

You can indeed absolutely fit four extra tires (even wide 305 or 315s) into the back seats and trunk, plus a helmet, suitcase, tools, jack, and a small cooler, and a jerry can for extra gas, so you dont NEED to drive and back on your MP4S. Its a gamble. One I’d probably take but definitelt think about brining one or two spares just in case.

What you’re not asking about which you should be considering is whats the minimum amount of brake pad thickness thats safe, how long since your last brake fluid change and what type of fluid is in there, and how well have you studied the racing line on the track and all the visual reference points you’ll need to spot?

If you’re going to have an instructor in the car with you, fantastic! If not, consider it.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

You get little black marks from rubber which gets kicked up and bounces off the paint. Its difficult to clean off but it comes off with the right product. A road course isn usually clear of gravel as long as you stay on it, and nobody tracks a bunch of crud back on track from an off course excursion. So I dont find its usually very hard on paint. I’d be more worried about the 400 miles of bugs.

Older MP4S will be fine. New ones can chunk on cars with inadequate camber if you overdrive and overheat them. Usually after a few thousand miles they harden up enough they will take most any abuse.

You can indeed absolutely fit four extra tires (even wide 305 or 315s) into the back seats and trunk, plus a helmet, suitcase, tools, jack, and a small cooler, and a jerry can for extra gas, so you dont NEED to drive and back on your MP4S. Its a gamble. One I’d probably take but definitelt think about brining one or two spares just in case.

What you’re not asking about which you should be considering is whats the minimum amount of brake pad thickness thats safe, how long since your last brake fluid change and what type of fluid is in there, and how well have you studied the racing line on the track and all the visual reference points you’ll need to spot?

If you’re going to have an instructor in the car with you, fantastic! If not, consider it.

The car has 9k miles on it. Brakes and fluid is original.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Opt in for any track insurance…

 

[GTP]

What @NightmareMoon said.

You don't need to change your brake fluid. I bet your front brake pads are fine, but you want to start with 50% thickness (for two track days), which is 5mm.

I like your idea of not starting out on the Cup 2 tires. You'll learn better car control on summer tires, and the squealing helps broadcast traction limit.

I recommend increasing your front camber over stock value, up to 2.5 degrees for your first day and PS4 tires. If you have OEM plates and never changed it, you may have some hassle to go through to remove the lock pins. I personally also run highish pressures - at least 39psi hot, or even higher. This will help save your PS4s.

I highly recommend an instructor, even for every session.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Opt in for any track insurance…

Is that something you purchase there?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Is that something you purchase there?

No, online. Try contacting Lockton

 

[AZ_Ryan]

No, online. Try contacting Lockton

Ok. Thanks. As long as my insurance doesn't find out.

 

[Turbeau]

Handling pack car? Adjust front Camber as far in as the plates will let you go. Usually ~2 - 2.5 negative. Keep an eye on your tire pressure. PS4 are fine for track. I’ve used them. As well as cup 2’s. PS4s are the Track Attack default tire. Use the Michelin Man embossed on the side wall as a pressure indicator and increase or decrease as needed to keep the wear at the edge of the tread.

If your oil is 1/2 life or less change it. Track time and high revs for extended periods are tough on fluids.

Talk to you buddies about what tools to bring. Someone needs to bring a jack. It will also help with adjusting camber plates.

If the track your going to has noise limits you can set your exhaust to quite mode. Them with the car running pull the exhaust valve fuse. You can then put the rest of the car in track mode. I’ve beaten 95Db limits this way.

The most important thing is to have fun. You won’t be the fastest.

 

[rubyredponycar]

Handling pack car? Adjust front Camber as far in as the plates will let you go. Usually ~2 - 2.5 negative. Keep an eye on your tire pressure. PS4 are fine for track. I’ve used them. As well as cup 2’s. PS4s are the Track Attack default tire. Use the Michelin Man embossed on the side wall as a pressure indicator and increase or decrease as needed to keep the wear at the edge of the tread.

If your oil is 1/2 life or less change it. Track time and high revs for extended periods are tough on fluids.

Talk to you buddies about what tools to bring. Someone needs to bring a jack. It will also help with adjusting camber plates.

If the track your going to has noise limits you can set your exhaust to quite mode. Them with the car running pull the exhaust valve fuse. You can then put the rest of the car in track mode. I’ve beaten 95Db limits this way.

The most important thing is to have fun. You won’t be the fastest.

Pulling the fuse is a little over board you can just put the car into track and then set the exhaust back to quiet mode if you want it stay there every time you just have to save it as Mymode. Then it’s just one switch away every time you start up.

 

[Turbeau]

The car will automatically open the valves out of quiet mode when at full throttle if you don’t pull the fuse to keep them shut.

 

[Knockdown]

PS4S tires are fine when you’re starting out, as said, more camber in the front helps, 30-31psi cold, when they warm up to 33psi you can lean on them, they start getting a bit slippery above 37-39psi, drive accordingly and monitor the pressures. Turn traction control off or you can cook the rear pads. You’ll need to fill up fuel after each session, figure out where you going to do that before you get there. Check and measure pad thickness before you go, if you are going to spend some money on prep, this would be a good place As well as fresh oil.

Be smooth and have fun!

 

[rubyredponycar]

The car will automatically open the valves out of quiet mode when at full throttle if you don’t pull the fuse to keep them shut.

… well that kind of defeats the whole point of a quiet mode… good info.

 

[Turbeau]

Yes. It took me a few events and help from this forum to figure that one out. I guess the guys at ford didn’t think an idiot like me would be racing WOT in quiet mode lol. For the record, Track mode on mine was just over 100Db (according to the official).

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