My S550 Track/HPDE build

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

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This tread is detailing the current status of my track car build. This is a 2015 manual S550 GT Premium, non performance pack. I just finished my 3rd HPDE.
I really wanted a premium for the fit and finish. The car isn’t anything special, I’ve just curated parts through verified sourced. I’ve been learning track driving with the car, and adding on where I see fit.
The basics are I’m running 18x9.5 square RPF1’s, with 275 rear tires and 245 front Michelin pilot sport AS4. I’d like to run square tires later on.

-Engine:

The first parts I installed were a GT350 intake manifold and an PMAS 120mm cold air, tuning handled by Lund Racing. I retained the stock throttle body for better Throttle response, utilizing an adaptor plate that VMP sells. With this combination, the car makes peak power at 7900 RPM, and on track I rev it to 8100.

-Exhaust:
Initially I ran a Corsa Extreme catback. For stock header applications, this is my favorite exhaust. No drone, and I enjoy the rasp more than a deeper rumble.
I recently installed Kooks Inch and 7/8ths catted long tube headers. The car is insanely loud at WOT, which I may remedy at some point with a quieter muffler. The power and torque gains are great.

Im pretty much finished with power modifications.


-Drivetrain/brakes:
My OEM clutch failed, so I bought a Mcleoud RST with an aluminum flywheel. This is the best clutch for N/A applications. All issues with the MT82 are solved with this clutch.
I’m running hawk HPS pads all around.
-Suspension:
Eibach front sway bar. The front end feel is my main critique of this car stock. At the medium setting, the front responds and has far less body roll.

-Required repairs:
The clutch +slave cylinder broke, coolant hose needed replacement, alternator went out. Engine has been reliable, been tuned for 20,000 miles.

My strategy for this build has been incremental improvements based on what I feel on track. Currently, the car is at my skill level.
When I buy an f80 m3 to daily, I’ll probably revise the mustang shocks+struts and get bucket seats. The car has 96,000 miles, so I’ll also refresh belts, gaskets, etc.

In conclusion, an S550 GT isn’t a bad track platform. The engine is the star of the show, where high revs felt very great on track. It has also been reliable. Obviously there are cheaper/lighter cars to track, but the running costs of a mustang paired with the performance make it a no brainer.

What would you guys recommend for track essential modifications?

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[Ewheels]

Is this a dedicated track car or double duty?

As for essentials: I would recommend catch cans but some will argue their necessity. Tires and brakes are another common upgrade but that will depend on skill/desire/budget (all-seasons and HPS pads are not great for the track but you can always run with what you have.)

If you are horrible at shifting like I am, an AutoBlip or Xineering unit will make downshifts fully automated.

Everything else can come later, I think. Suspension can wait, cooling can wait till you have a problem, aero comes after coilovers, safety equipment is nice but that's a lot of money all at once (roll bar, seat, harness, HANS).
I would recommend bumping up to at least a 30 weight oil or better yet a 40 or 50 weight.
Some brake cooling ducts/deflectors will help make your pads/rotors last longer.

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

Is this a dedicated track car or double duty?

As for essentials: I would recommend catch cans but some will argue their necessity. Tires and brakes are another common upgrade but that will depend on skill/desire/budget (all-seasons and HPS pads are not great for the track but you can always run with what you have.)

If you are horrible at shifting like I am, an AutoBlip or Xineering unit will make downshifts fully automated.

Everything else can come later, I think. Suspension can wait, cooling can wait till you have a problem, aero comes after coilovers, safety equipment is nice but that's a lot of money all at once (roll bar, seat, harness, HANS).
I would recommend bumping up to at least a 30 weight oil or better yet a 40 or 50 weight.
Some brake cooling ducts/deflectors will help make your pads/rotors last longer.

It’s currently double duty(hence the AS4’s), but by the end of the year I’ll be buying an f80 m3 to daily so the mustang will become dedicated. I do have a UPR catch can, installed it at the same time as my intake manifold.

is 5w30-40 really okay for these motors? I’d assume you just need to baby the car more at startup for the thicker oil to heat up.

 

[Ewheels]

It’s currently double duty(hence the AS4’s), but by the end of the year I’ll be buying an f80 m3 to daily so the mustang will become dedicated. I do have a UPR catch can, installed it at the same time as my intake manifold.

is 5w30-40 really okay for these motors? I’d assume you just need to baby the car more at startup for the thicker oil to heat up.

I'm not certain about Gen 2 Coyotes but at least for my 2018, the owner's manual recommends 5w30 for track use. I use 0w40 without issue and there are plenty of full race builds that use 5w50. These engines get super hot at full tilt so a thicker oil is just to further protect the engine. If you add an oil cooler and keep the oil temps in check, you could go thinner.

As long as you still use a 5w_, the warm up process is unchanged as the cold weight is the same.
Babying the car during warm-up is always a good idea anyway though.

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Gen 2 owner here. I've been using 5w-30 for the last 30k miles. Also FBO tuned By Lund. No issues

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

Gen 2 owner here. I've been using 5w-30 for the last 30k miles. Also FBO tuned By Lund. No issues

Nice, I’ll try that for my next oil change. What brand of 5w30 do you run? Full synthetic?

 

[Biggsy]

I have a 2017. Switched to 5w30 several years ago.
Was using Penzoil Ultra Platinum then after the Project Farm oil test video I switched to Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series. This year for the sale of budget, I switched to Mobil 1 5w40 since I can get it at any local Walmart and it’s less than $50 per change whereas Amsoil was $50 per gallon. Going to do one more event on it I believe then send for analysis. So far every oil has come back with a great report. With oil, change frequency is key. I called Ford Performance to see what they recommend and they said for heavy track use 5w50.

As for pads, I recommend GLOC pads. If you rather go back and forth after events, you can run the GS1 compound for street then go to any of the R compounds for track use all on the same rotor. I did something similar my first year but then I got lazy and just run my track pads all season. Personally I can deal with the dust and noise on the street.

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Nice, I’ll try that for my next oil change. What brand of 5w30 do you run? Full synthetic?

I always use Aimsoil Signature series full synthetic 5w-30. Always add in a bottle of Ceratec to each oil change. If you can find a dealer it’s a lot cheaper buying it by the gallon

 

[ArrestmeRed]

I have a 2017. Switched to 5w30 several years ago.
Was using Penzoil Ultra Platinum then after the Project Farm oil test video I switched to Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series. This year for the sale of budget, I switched to Mobil 1 5w40 since I can get it at any local Walmart and it’s less than $50 per change whereas Amsoil was $50 per gallon. Going to do one more event on it I believe then send for analysis. So far every oil has come back with a great report. With oil, change frequency is key. I called Ford Performance to see what they recommend and they said for heavy track use 5w50.

As for pads, I recommend GLOC pads. If you rather go back and forth after events, you can run the GS1 compound for street then go to any of the R compounds for track use all on the same rotor. I did something similar my first year but then I got lazy and just run my track pads all season. Personally I can deal with the dust and noise on the street.

I went almost a full season with Gloc R12’s. Never again lol had to switch back to street pads this season

 

[Ewheels]

I went almost a full season with Gloc R12’s. Never again lol had to switch back to street pads this season

Why "never again"?

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

I have a 2017. Switched to 5w30 several years ago.
Was using Penzoil Ultra Platinum then after the Project Farm oil test video I switched to Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series. This year for the sale of budget, I switched to Mobil 1 5w40 since I can get it at any local Walmart and it’s less than $50 per change whereas Amsoil was $50 per gallon. Going to do one more event on it I believe then send for analysis. So far every oil has come back with a great report. With oil, change frequency is key. I called Ford Performance to see what they recommend and they said for heavy track use 5w50.

As for pads, I recommend GLOC pads. If you rather go back and forth after events, you can run the GS1 compound for street then go to any of the R compounds for track use all on the same rotor. I did something similar my first year but then I got lazy and just run my track pads all season. Personally I can deal with the dust and noise on the street.

I’ve just run one track day with penzoil, swapped in that oil the day before the track day. For my motors sake should I look at changing it for 5w40?
Right now as I track the car I’m thinking of changing oil every 3k miles, is that a fair interval?

 

[Biggsy]

I’ve just run one track day with penzoil, swapped in that oil the day before the track day. For my motors sake should I look at changing it for 5w40?
Right now as I track the car I’m thinking of changing oil every 3k miles, is that a fair interval?

To be honest engine oil is something everyone will have their own take on. You have those who change before every event, those who go by miles (track+street combined), those who go by the number of events. There are those who run 5w30 and those who run 5w50. There is no real right answer except change your oil more frequently than a street only car.

Just don’t follow the person who blew up their engine(s) lol

 

[Driv3n to Dr1ve]

Is this a dedicated track car or double duty?

As for essentials: I would recommend catch cans but some will argue their necessity. Tires and brakes are another common upgrade but that will depend on skill/desire/budget (all-seasons and HPS pads are not great for the track but you can always run with what you have.)

If you are horrible at shifting like I am, an AutoBlip or Xineering unit will make downshifts fully automated.

Everything else can come later, I think. Suspension can wait, cooling can wait till you have a problem, aero comes after coilovers, safety equipment is nice but that's a lot of money all at once (roll bar, seat, harness, HANS).
I would recommend bumping up to at least a 30 weight oil or better yet a 40 or 50 weight.
Some brake cooling ducts/deflectors will help make your pads/rotors last longer.

Also what’re your thoughts on swapping trans fluid? I’ve been thinking of swapping in BG syncroshift ii because I’m nearing 100k miles on the stock fluid. Also how often should brake fluid be flushed/replaced if I hit 3-4 track days+autox per year?

 

[ArrestmeRed]

Why "never again"?

My car sees plenty of street miles during the year. These pads will never get enough heat in them like they do on track just driving normally on the street. We all know track pads make noise when braking which is normal. These however will squeak like you’re pressing the brakes even if you’re not at slower speeds. I thought my calipers were slightly hanging up until I my friend installed the same pads on his. Same issue. Then there was a thread on here about it as well. The only time it doesn’t is after a track day after they get heat in them and they quiet down. I could deal with noise while braking. Couldn’t deal with the constant squeaking while driving. From now on I’ll swap pads before and after track days if they’re far apart

 

[Biggsy]

My car sees plenty of street miles during the year. These pads will never get enough heat in them like they do on track just driving normally on the street. We all know track pads make noise when braking which is normal. These however will squeak like you’re pressing the brakes even if you’re not at slower speeds. I thought my calipers were slightly hanging up until I my friend installed the same pads on his. Same issue. Then there was a thread on here about it as well. The only time it doesn’t is after a track day after they get heat in them and they quiet down. I could deal with noise while braking. Couldn’t deal with the constant squeaking while driving. From now on I’ll swap pads before and after track days if they’re far apart

Yea I don’t drive mine on the street every day but I do get looks when I’m creeping in parking lots lol.

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