Mustang Ecoboost HPP (High Performance Package) Modifications Log

[ANS]

well to be fair, OEM intake + drop in filter does equal to SB. so ignore the intake. its all looks.

This is what I DID.

full steeda suspension, included sway bars. 1500
cjpp strut bar 150
drop in filter - 50 kn filter
Roush Y pipe- 215 at Levittown ford perf
mishimoto radiator- 450 (asked mishimoto for 10% off and they obliged)
CPE street intercooler- 270 shipped during Black Friday 2 years ago


downpipe is optional, thats if you want to go protune/cobb stage 3 which isn't offered anymore. - if you do downpipe, you are needing a new tune, FP and HPP both won't play well. trust me, I did the DP with FP and it worked alright, but it ran better with the downpipe. since Cobb doesnt offer stage 3 anymore you'd need to get the stage 3 file off someone, or get pro tuned.

I didn't mess with rear links. cant see a point in benefit for them with my suspension

in the end, you'd better off getting a regular EB premium and pro tuning, you'd have a lot better car for 5k spent vs hpp package.

I only say this, because I did exactly what I wrote.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2017-mustang-ecoboost-build-log.160535/


but. IF I found a screaming deal for a HPP on sale, id just honestly slap a intercooler in it, and enjoy it for what it was. should be extremely reliable/enjoyable/nice daily.

I have access to the stage 3 files from Cobb. You can ask them to send them to you, they just don't advertise them anymore because the supporting downpipe Mod was not Carb certified. I agree, the downpipe can rob power until the proper tune is completed.

So far I know the larger radiator, different turbo, boost sensor, rear sway bar, strut bar, of course larger wheels and tires are the main differences. Are the camshafts different as well? I noticed on the Ford performance website they offer a high performance cam shaft option.

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[VicRattlehead]

In 6th gear, you can feel a difference in throttle response in increments of .002 of a gap. I recommend trying to get the widest gap before misfire happens as your throttle response will benefit from doing so.

So what dyno did you use to come up with this? Cause anything other than an actual dyno is just hearsay and not admissible

 

[FreePenguin]

if both a eb premium and eb premium hpp was next to each other at almost same cost, hpp no brainer, and just IC and enjoy. but if you was paying 5k premium for it, with the intent to mod it, it only makes sense to get the regular premium or whatever equivalent, if you are replacing the things you are paying for from factory (the 5k surcharge for the extra stuff) then replacing /changing all that. then it becomes a waste.

kind of like buying PP car, then completely removing all the suspension lol. at that point, could of been better buying non pp since that money wasn't tossed out.

but I think the HPP is a sweet car, it has a nice body look, well equipped from factory. just a little pricy. its great for 99% of people really who dont want to wrench or know how to do anything.

the one variable we dont count is labor, I did everything myself, yeah suspension 1-2k but if you have shops install all the parts, It can outweigh the parts sometimes.

 

[Cheo]

The HPP is a great value if you include the handling package, $1995 gives you wheels, tires, Torsen, Magneride, larger sway bars, and now Brembo's up front. I wish they would offer the package on regular ecoboosts but I guess Ford figures you'll pay the premium on the HPP just for this package. BTW, I own both a 2017 Ecoboost and a HPP Ecoboost, the difference is where the power delivery is, the HPP is more responsive and for longer, meaning, it'll pull with no issues to redline. I had a 2017 with a FP tune, very good tune and it kept my warranty, didn't have any issues with it and enjoy it very much, so a good compromise there.

 

[FreePenguin]

The HPP is a great value if you include the handling package, $1995 gives you wheels, tires, Torsen, Magneride, larger sway bars, and now Brembo's up front. I wish they would offer the package on regular ecoboosts but I guess Ford figures you'll pay the premium on the HPP just for this package. BTW, I own both a 2017 Ecoboost and a HPP Ecoboost, the difference is where the power delivery is, the HPP is more responsive and for longer, meaning, it'll pull with no issues to redline. I had a 2017 with a FP tune, very good tune and it kept my warranty, didn't have any issues with it and enjoy it very much, so a good compromise there.

Did you upgrade intercooler in both cars? Or are they using the same stock intercooler.
Asking because heat soak will pull power instantly basically during one pull

 

[FreePenguin]

One thing though I do not understand.

ford perf 2015-21 w ford tune, we get same mpg or even better I get like 25 city and 33-36 highway.

the build sticker on hpp is like 23 city and 27 highway, did they really have to richen the hpp a ton to keep it safe? I’m wondering if they did that to compensate for the small intercooler.

I figure would of been easier to use a more efficient intercooler and let it use regular mpg’s but to tune for the broad torque curve how they did it it must eat the fuel.

in reality maybe it gets way better mpg than labeled. But 23/27seems awful low

 

[Cheo]

Did you upgrade intercooler in both cars? Or are they using the same stock intercooler.
Asking because heat soak will pull power instantly basically during one pull

yes, they both run/ran cPe intercoolers

 

[FreePenguin]

yes, they both run/ran cPe intercoolers

The hpp holds power longer to redline, how would you rate them other ways? 99% same feeling in peaks and low rpm torque etc?
Glad to hear about someone who owns both! If I totaled mine I wonder if I’d be doing mine over again or buy hpp. Since car prices are so high and parts don’t appear to go on sale anymore

hpp may really tick the box with a intercooler, one and done

 

[Cheo]

One thing though I do not understand.

ford perf 2015-21 w ford tune, we get same mpg or even better I get like 25 city and 33-36 highway.

the build sticker on hpp is like 23 city and 27 highway, did they really have to richen the hpp a ton to keep it safe? I’m wondering if they did that to compensate for the small intercooler.

I figure would of been easier to use a more efficient intercooler and let it use regular mpg’s but to tune for the broad torque curve how they did it it must eat the fuel.

in reality maybe it gets way better mpg than labeled. But 23/27seems awful low

I'm closer to 21 city numbers (I do drive mostly in sport mode), I do closer to 30 on the highway, it is not as fuel efficient as my wife's ecoboost (91 octane on both).

 

[FreePenguin]

I'm closer to 21 city numbers (I do drive mostly in sport mode), I do closer to 30 on the highway, it is not as fuel efficient as my wife's ecoboost (91 octane on both).

could be the gearing in axle. I’m 3.31 gearing I think op is 3.55 paired with more rich safer fueling to prevent detonating

 

[Jaymar]

So really you are just paying for a slightly larger radiator, 4 piston brakes instead of 2 piston, larger rear sway bar, strut bar, and some cosmetic touches. for $6,000.

They used to just call it the performance pack and it was only $1500 so it was a screaming deal. Unfortunately both models have suffered from performance pack inflation to the point of questionable returns.

 

[S550 HPP]

The only modification I made to my HPP is the elimination of the hood stripes. Top speed is now 160.

 

[ANS]

The only modification I made to my HPP is the elimination of the hood stripes. Top speed is now 160.

That was amongst the first thing I did lol

 

[S550 HPP]

its great for 99% of people really who dont want to wrench or know how to do anything.

That’s ME!

I love to drive, I love car sites and videos that describe great handling cars. I love the look of the S550 and the tech behind the HPP. But I am not a mechanically inclined guy. I can jump a car, change a tire, change blades, top off oil, got a portable tire inflator, but these folks that can drop in a new shifter. . . . well, I marvel at their skill. I admire a tricked out garage as much as anyone.

With enough money for tools and time to learn I’m confident I could do some the wrenching I see take place on this site. But my priorities lie elsewhere and I will just have to cross my fingers and hope the “expert“ down at the Ford store knows what they are doing when something goes tango uniform on my HPP.

In the meantime those of you who know their way around a wrench can sleep soundly knowing your S550 is babied in a way no dealer could touch.

 

[ANS]

Some news, I ended up trading my 2020 Mustang HPP. I couldn't resist the offers I was given. I ended up making money on it. The used car market is crazy right now. I have some old contacts in the auto sales industry as I used to be in sales. One of my friends told me about a dealer who had a few 2021 mustangs left which is a shocker given all the chip shortages.

This is a little bit of a story but worth the read:

My wife and I went to the dealer and looked at the available colors. We decided to purchase a grey 2021 mustang 10-speed auto. We finished the paperwork right as the dealership was closing for the night around 9 pm. As the last employees walked out so did we. We hopped into the car and drove down the street to get something to eat. When we parked in front of the restaurant I proceeded to turn off the car. What happened next created 3 days of misery. The car horn went off and would not stop. It was like an alarm where the horn goes in a pattern. It was blaring continuously. I tried to make sure the alarm was not engaged. I own a car electronics business and have been an installer for over 15 years. I consider myself 12 volt savvy. I tried everything. Nothing would get the horn to turn off. I couldn't pull the fuse because the fuse box did not have a plastic fuse puller. We were so embarrassed. I eventually figured out that once I restarted the car, the horn would turn off. I immediately called the sales guy from the dealer and he essentially blew me off. He told me to come back in the morning. I ended up driving the car back to the dealer and parked it in front of their service door. While driving it back, the horn would randomly go off. I pissed off a lot of people around us lol. The new mustang only had 10 miles on the odometer! I guess they apparently now come with an electrical gremlin from the manufacturing line. I took several videos of the car having issues as I suspected the dealership would try to make it seem like a mild issue. The next day we ubered back to the dealer for them to tell me they would repair the vehicle but it would take up to two months. Let me remind you, I just purchased the car the night before. I told them to either put me in another mustang or I would walk on the deal. They politely told me to go f*** myself. As I worked in the industry before I knew there was no way for the deal to have been funded by the bank and I also had a trick up my sleeve. I had a third key made for my old mustang which I kept because I was going to reprogram it for the new car. I ripped up my copy of the contract in front of the sales manager, called my bank to dispute the credit card charge for the deposit, and got into my old mustang and drove off with my wife. I then called the financing bank and notified them I did not take delivery of the new vehicle. The financing bank was extremely professional and stopped the loan. The next day, I received a call from the dealer. They informed me the loan was already funded and I had to come back to return my old mustang or they would call the police. Knowing that they were being dishonest I told them, no problem, call the police and hung up. I called Ford directly and told them about the events that took place. Ford ended speaking with the dealership and I guess they said something that worked because the next day the dealership called me apologizing and asked me if they could regain my business. The general manager as well as the district manager for the dealership chain offered to discount the transaction another $2,500 for the hassle. I initially did not want to go back, but $2,500 is a substantial discount.

The next day I went back to the dealer and looked at the remaining mustangs they had. There was a blue one and a white one. The blue one had a stripe and wheel package that caught my attention. While inspecting it I noticed the passenger side mirror was cracked and separated. Two of the interior trim pieces were heavily scuffed as well. Either this dealer does not know what a predelivery inspection means or Ford really screwed up. On to the oxford white mustang I went. It was perfect, not a single flaw in sight. I ended up taking it home. The dealer honored their proposed discount but I will never go back to them.

Here is a link to a video of the original grey mustang horn going crazy:



Pics of the new new mustang (yes I have already modded it )

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