Search results

ffs...

i keep going thru o2 sensors in my 15. Its a stock turbo and exhaust includes, CVFab catless downtube/midpipe and roush the rest of the way out back. I replaced the o2 sensor about 2000 miles ago and at the end of last season got codes for it again. p0036 p0137 p06B8 previously i replaced it...

you got a light socket?? put an adapter in it and now you have power. use a heatgun

if this was available when I started out id of started with this. https://www.tuneplusinc.com/collections/2015-2016-2017-2018-2019-ford-ecoboost-mustang-tuning/products/tune-w350-power-package-for-2015-ford-ecoboost-mustang

most fords after 21 haven't been coming with covers my 15 I took it off and tossed it. I change plugs too often to have to be concerned with pulling it off and putting it on.

lol I don't have Ryan tune either for a reason.

that piece is 180.99 new at roush lol

It was years ago that I did mine but I don’t remember pulling exhaust off. It was a fairly easy install. Idk if things changed from 15 to 22 Post a pic of how you have things right now.

to stay Nhra legal to 10.00 you need factory seat, seat belt, and steering wheel with airbag. or go 6 point bar and belts. harness bar won't be legal in any scenario

the grabber blue from 12/13 whatever that was is metallic. It’s not as flaky metallic as the Mach but metallic it is.

what shock did they say to use?

I got my full race and it dropped in like butta, yeah the bov flange was not the right one on the first one they sent me but it was corrected and I had the right one in hand when I was ready to do install. IfI did it again, I’d do it the same way. Maybe not do the vent to air bov cause it got...

I’m on revision 20 something. At $85-100 per session thats 1700-2000 in just dyno time. That’s insane when there’s thousands of miles of open roads. I use a highway on ramp to the next exit. There’s a rest area in between so I go down and back getting off at the rest area both sides. That’s 4...

So what dyno did you use to come up with this? Cause anything other than an actual dyno is just hearsay and not admissible

"....The NGK 90495, when gapped to .028-.030 (I used .029), made the most power....." can I ask, what tool did you use to determine that this "made the most power" how did you make that determination.

Why

That seems like a cool little device. I appreciate the link. I did however get the autometer tach adapter ordered already. The issue I’m having with this is it was suppose to be a cheap quick solution because I already had the tach.

Data logger plugged in to it. The splitter doesn’t work with it either

Not a gen3 not a 5.0 not even a v. I do have the 9117 ordered.

What you said here... EDIT: Although I have an s197 it has a gen 2 Coyote in it so the engine harness is the same as the OP.... Being the op, I don’t have a gen2 coyote in my car so I don’t have the harness in there either. I’ve got a 2.3 eco so I’ve got a eco harness. Lol no biggie.