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Mustang Ecoboost HPP (High Performance Package) Modifications Log

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Here are some pics, as you see, other than the intake, it looks fairly stock which was a goal of mine. It needs a wash bad lol

IMG_20210616_182643.jpg

IMG_20210616_182630.jpg
ive never seen that intake before, I dig it a lot. that is the cleanest intake ive seen. what is it?
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It is made by s&b filters
I like it a lot, if I didn't go through the CPE route, then sold it, and went back to stock, with velossatech, had I seen that first years ago, would of gotten it. its a very clean, and sealed unit. I like it a lot.
 

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"....The NGK 90495, when gapped to .028-.030 (I used .029), made the most power....."

can I ask, what tool did you use to determine that this "made the most power" how did you make that determination.
 

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"....The NGK 90495, when gapped to .028-.030 (I used .029), made the most power....."

can I ask, what tool did you use to determine that this "made the most power" how did you make that determination.
I kind of feel you cant feel the difference of a .001 of a gap.

but that said, there's no reason to not gap to .028, as thats the spec, and it will let you possibly grow the gap a little during wear and still be fine.
 

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I kind of feel you cant feel the difference of a .001 of a gap.

but that said, there's no reason to not gap to .028, as thats the spec, and it will let you possibly grow the gap a little during wear and still be fine.
In 6th gear, you can feel a difference in throttle response in increments of .002 of a gap. I recommend trying to get the widest gap before misfire happens as your throttle response will benefit from doing so.
 

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In 6th gear, you can feel a difference in throttle response in increments of .002 of a gap. I recommend trying to get the widest gap before misfire happens as your throttle response will benefit from doing so.
why are you using the highest/most lugged gear to do power test? isn't that the absolute last gear you'd want to floor/do pulls with to prevent lspi? I always thought of 6th gear, as just cruising gear, if I need to pass, I drop to 5th/4th, or just gentle gas to pass like a few mph difference.
 
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why are you using the highest/most lugged gear to do power test? isn't that the absolute last gear you'd want to floor/do pulls with to prevent lspi?
I never said I was using 6th gear for power tests. I said in 6th gear you feel a throttle response difference between the different gaps of .002 increments. I used 3rd and 4th gear for power tests, wot.
 

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I never said I was using 6th gear for power tests. I said in 6th gear you feel a throttle response difference between the different gaps of .002 increments.
ah alright. I was confused thinking you was doing like throttle testing/pulls in 6th lol. that is straight up lspi territory id reckon
 
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The only ecoboost mustang I have driven and modified is the hpp edition. I am looking at purchasing another ecoboost for my wife and am trying to decide whether to get another ecoboost hpp or just the normal version. Has anyone driven both? What did you think? How do you think the power making capabilities go between the two as I understand the hpp has a slightly different turbo and other hardware.
 

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The only ecoboost mustang I have driven and modified is the hpp edition. I am looking at purchasing another ecoboost for my wife and am trying to decide whether to get another ecoboost hpp or just the normal version. Has anyone driven both? What did you think? How do you think the power making capabilities go between the two as I understand the hpp has a slightly different turbo and other hardware.
its strange, I read dynos comparing stock EB with FP tunes, vs the HPP tunes, and the regular EB+fp tune has higher numbers, but the torque is broader in the HPP. I cant find the stage 3 comparisons as they was removed from Cobb, someone had both HPP stage 3 and EB stage 3 from Cobb's tune dynos but they gone.

imo. I test drove the hpp, and it was prob 87, and wasn't broken in. but I think if I bought another one today, id still do regular EB + Intercooler + FP or Cobb tune. (id pick fp) very happy with it. but if I had HPP, id still do the IC and rock it. I think they pulled some power back on the HPP's potential due to fact of its small IC, which they also tuned the other EB for small ic, but its simply pulls back power.

I cant phrase what im trying to say, but the HPP is meant for useable power, meaning it isn't trying to max it out, but keep it in torque curve for daily spirited. I think the FP was meant for higher power level/peak power, but it heat soaks instantly after a pull. which IC helps a lot with. but due to HPP probably being driven harder they put some margin for safety in it.

this is my speculation from the dynos I read
 

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Heres the ford perf dyno for 15-17

here's the stage 1 for the HPP from Cobb. it shows base dyno/vs their stage 1. but for purpose of discussion, compare the FP numbers, vs the stage 1 stock numbers on HPP that Cobb dynod. I read their comments and other comments showing the FP had more power.

23CALDYNO.JPG


Screen Shot 2021-06-28 at 11.05.25 PM.png



but wait. I will post stage 1/2/3 Cobb for regular EB, and stage 3 for HPP from Cobb. (these are basically full bolt on comparison of both ecoboost.

regular EB stage 1/2/3 Cobb numbers, each stage 1 2 3 is diff. 1 is regular with drop in air filter, 2 is intercooler and drop in filter, and 3 is downpipe+exhaust+filter+IC

Reg eb

graph-2.jpg


Screen Shot 2021-06-28 at 11.08.42 PM.png
 

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when both are full bolted on, and Cobb tuned with the proper stuff, the HPP clearly shows more torque carried I feel at glancing at charts. but stock HPP tune vs FP regular tune, I feel like FP shows higher numbers.

but I think they are close really. its same engine, just 3mm larger turbo in the end.
 
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when both are full bolted on, and Cobb tuned with the proper stuff, the HPP clearly shows more torque carried I feel at glancing at charts. but stock HPP tune vs FP regular tune, I feel like FP shows higher numbers.

but I think they are close really. its same engine, just 3mm larger turbo in the end.
So really you are just paying for a slightly larger radiator, 4 piston brakes instead of 2 piston, larger rear sway bar, strut bar, and some cosmetic touches. for $6,000.

Here are some rough prices on modifications I could do on the regular ecoboost
Mishimoto intercooler $500-600
Strut Bar: $100-$200
Rear sway bar: $100-200
S&B intake $300-450
Tune whether it be Cobb or Ford $500-$700
Downpipe $300-$500
Remove resonator and replace mufflers with Carven or similar and use 2.25 or 2.5" crush bent pipe $300-$500 or just buy a pre-made kit
Boomba Racing rear vertical links $125ish

For around half the cost of the hpp option, you can have yourself a really nice daily driver with tasteful mods. In the future, once tires and brakes are worn you can then replace them with higher performance options. I assume the shocks and springs are similar between the hpp and non hpp.

My hpp is a 6 speed manual with the 3.55 gear. How would the 10 speed auto with the 3.15 compare?
 

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So really you are just paying for a slightly larger radiator, 4 piston brakes instead of 2 piston, larger rear sway bar, strut bar, and some cosmetic touches. for $6,000.

Here are some rough prices on modifications I could do on the regular ecoboost
Mishimoto intercooler $500-600
Strut Bar: $100-$200
Rear sway bar: $100-200
S&B intake $300-450
Tune whether it be Cobb or Ford $500-$700
Downpipe $300-$500
Remove resonator and replace mufflers with Carven or similar and use 2.25 or 2.5" crush bent pipe $300-$500 or just buy a pre-made kit
Boomba Racing rear vertical links $125ish

For around half the cost of the hpp option, you can have yourself a really nice daily driver with tasteful mods. In the future, once tires and brakes are worn you can then replace them with higher performance options. I assume the shocks and springs are similar between the hpp and non hpp.

My hpp is a 6 speed manual with the 3.55 gear. How would the 10 speed auto with the 3.15 compare?

well to be fair, OEM intake + drop in filter does equal to SB. so ignore the intake. its all looks.

This is what I DID.

full steeda suspension, included sway bars. 1500
cjpp strut bar 150
drop in filter - 50 kn filter
Roush Y pipe- 215 at Levittown ford perf
mishimoto radiator- 450 (asked mishimoto for 10% off and they obliged)
CPE street intercooler- 270 shipped during Black Friday 2 years ago


downpipe is optional, thats if you want to go protune/cobb stage 3 which isn't offered anymore. - if you do downpipe, you are needing a new tune, FP and HPP both won't play well. trust me, I did the DP with FP and it worked alright, but it ran better with the downpipe. since Cobb doesnt offer stage 3 anymore you'd need to get the stage 3 file off someone, or get pro tuned.

I didn't mess with rear links. cant see a point in benefit for them with my suspension

in the end, you'd better off getting a regular EB premium and pro tuning, you'd have a lot better car for 5k spent vs hpp package.

I only say this, because I did exactly what I wrote.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2017-mustang-ecoboost-build-log.160535/


but. IF I found a screaming deal for a HPP on sale, id just honestly slap a intercooler in it, and enjoy it for what it was. should be extremely reliable/enjoyable/nice daily.
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