More suspension issue......

[moarhorsepower]

I'm having similar issues. The car feels unsettled and a bit jumpy at times. That plus a bit of a steering wheel nibble left to right (not sure if it's EPAS related or not) is making me really rethink how my suspension is setup (or just needs to be looked at who knows far more than me).

Alignment is on spec (GT350/BMR specs) other than the front caster not being close enough side to side for my taste. I was literally about to post something very similar.

Steeda Pro Action non adjustable shocks/struts
PP OEM strut mounts
Steeda Sport Progressive springs
Steeda bump stops
MRR 19x10/19x11 wheels (285/35 front, 295/35 rear)
Steeda front control arms (lateral links extended ball joint and bushing, tension links - not bearing style)
BMR CB006 4 point brace
BMR CB005 cradle bushing lockout kit
Steeda cradle alignment pins (2 of 4 used)
Steeda rear billet shock mounts (which are pissing me off because of noise/loosening)
BMR BK054 - differential bushing lockouts
BMR TCA048 vertical links

I know I need to get some camber/caster plates soon to get the caster back into spec on the one side. Was also thinking of doing a different spring setup (BMR Performance springs) and add some front travel back in.

Any thoughts since my issue is rather similar to OP's? And sorry @Pauliejr not trying to hijack just we are both having the same issues.

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[Cardude99]

Perhaps using 2 of the 4 alignment dowels is a contributing factor?

 

[moarhorsepower]

Perhaps using 2 of the 4 alignment dowels is a contributing factor?

When I first got the alignment dowels they weren't all compatible with the BMR CB005 - but I haven't heard of any issues like this. Plus with the CB005 being installed, that should be taking care of any subframe alignment issues. Visually, the rear wheels are even from what I can tell.

 

[ArcsandSparks]

I will have them give this a shot this weekend.
Could this also be a reason it’s “hard to get into spec” or not able to fully get into spec as I heard from the regular shop that did it this past weekend ?
Or is there another issue

Yes, but the alignment tech might have found it difficult to set the rear camber due to the bolt design used. A good tech should be able to get it done without issue.

 

[Bluemustang]

When I first got the alignment dowels they weren't all compatible with the BMR CB005 - but I haven't heard of any issues like this. Plus with the CB005 being installed, that should be taking care of any subframe alignment issues. Visually, the rear wheels are even from what I can tell.

Not necessarily. I had the CB005 and my subframe was off center about 1/4".

 

[Bluemustang]

OP:

Make sure your bushings were reindexed at ride height. Also that diff insert kit isnt helping your ride quality. Next step is make sure your alignment is good. Were the tires new when you did the mods or did they already have wear in them? Sometimes a change to the alignment on worn in tires can cause a radial tire pull. For the KONIs I'd try front at 1 full turn from full soft and 3/4 turn on the rears. The KONIs are a bit crashy though because they lack adequate compression but have a strong rebound.

 

[NightmareMoon]

As for pulling to the right, lots of times the steering won't be exactly centered after they try to align it. Its very hard for an alignment tech to get this perfect with just the machine readouts. The good techs will do a quick test drive to confirm the steering is centered and the car isn't pulling. If your car is pulling or off center, the best thing is to go right back to the shop and they should fix it. That's kind of normal.

Soften the Konis down to 40% stiff in the front (1 turn from full soft), 20% stiff in the rear (1/2 turn from full soft) or less. 3/4 stiff is suitable for very aggressive driving on the track or at an autox, its not the best setting for comfort. Try full soft (0%) and work your way up slowly.

If you wanted a compliant ride, well, most of those parts are stiffer than stock, so that goes right out the window. This combination of parts IS going to ride rougher than stock over harsh roads.

 

[Bluemustang]

If you wanted a compliant ride, well, most of those parts are stiffer than stock, so that goes right out the window. This combination of parts IS going to ride rougher than stock over harsh roads.

Totally agree. The combination of parts is the key here. What you are saying is a fact.

 

[moarhorsepower]

Not necessarily. I had the CB005 and my subframe was off center about 1/4".

Hmmm - ill have to have my guy look at it again. When it was installed he mentioned it was originally off center but that was corrected.

 

[Pauliejr]

Hmmm - ill have to have my guy look at it again. When it was installed he mentioned it was originally off center but that was corrected.

what's the best way to make sure the subframe is intact centered.

I actually don't mind and expect a stiffer rough ride, that's why I have installed what I have. the car just seemed very off.

I did soften ups the konis and let me tell you it rides so much better.'

I have a new set of wheels 19x10 19x11 coming in Thursday with new tires as well. I have an alignment appointment appointment setup at a race shop this Saturday as well as a set of front camber caster plates on the way.

I suspect a lot of issue have to do with the car never being aligned properly.


I was thinking about getting a cradle alignment sleeve and/or the its lockout kit next. I'm assuming this will yet again throw off my alignment if I can't get the parts in before my alignment Saturday??

 

[BmacIL]

As for pulling to the right, lots of times the steering won't be exactly centered after they try to align it. Its very hard for an alignment tech to get this perfect with just the machine readouts. The good techs will do a quick test drive to confirm the steering is centered and the car isn't pulling. If your car is pulling or off center, the best thing is to go right back to the shop and they should fix it. That's kind of normal.

Soften the Konis down to 40% stiff in the front (1 turn from full soft), 20% stiff in the rear (1/2 turn from full soft) or less. 3/4 stiff is suitable for very aggressive driving on the track or at an autox, its not the best setting for comfort. Try full soft (0%) and work your way up slowly.

If you wanted a compliant ride, well, most of those parts are stiffer than stock, so that goes right out the window. This combination of parts IS going to ride rougher than stock over harsh roads.

When I had Konis with the same spring rates as the OP, the ride didn't start feeling controlled until I turned it up a bit. I'm sure on stock or stock-like springs, lower would be better for ride. I started at 1/4 turn from soft and drove that for a while. Then I tried 3/4 turn and the rear especially was a lot more planted and went over ruts and bumps MUCH smoother. The lack of damping at lower settings was letting the car get jostled. They were still harsher and more crashy feeling (compression vs rebound balance, which is typical of Koni yellows) than the FP Track dampers I have installed now.

 

[808muscle]

I just had my alignment done this past week. I know the tech and asked him to clock the bushings and even sent him the BMR link. He did the work and mentioned he saw the bushings turn and the car drop further when the loosened some of the pivot points. The difference in handling is so much better. I am so happy I mentioned it to him. Clock those bushings dude!! Most likey that is the cause of your issues. FYI I also had installed the
Steeda Alignment Kit for BMR IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit as well.

 

[Safridi22]

what's the best way to make sure the subframe is intact centered.

I actually don't mind and expect a stiffer rough ride, that's why I have installed what I have. the car just seemed very off.

I did soften ups the konis and let me tell you it rides so much better.'

I have a new set of wheels 19x10 19x11 coming in Thursday with new tires as well. I have an alignment appointment appointment setup at a race shop this Saturday as well as a set of front camber caster plates on the way.

I suspect a lot of issue have to do with the car never being aligned properly.


I was thinking about getting a cradle alignment sleeve and/or the its lockout kit next. I'm assuming this will yet again throw off my alignment if I can't get the parts in before my alignment Saturday??

What shop will you be taking it to? Curious cuz the only places I know are out east.

 

[Pauliejr]

What shop will you be taking it to? Curious cuz the only places I know are out east.

Racelign in deer park

 

[Safridi22]

I just had my alignment done this past week. I know the tech and asked him to clock the bushings and even sent him the BMR link. He did the work and mentioned he saw the bushings turn and the car drop further when the loosened some of the pivot points. The difference in handling is so much better. I am so happy I mentioned it to him. Clock those bushings dude!! Most likey that is the cause of your issues. FYI I also had installed the
Steeda Alignment Kit for BMR IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit as well.

I really wish someone can make a video on how to clock the bushings in your driveway. I tried and felt like the p90x dude that does those sideways pull ups.

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