More suspension issue......

[Pauliejr]

Need to sort this mess out.

2016 GT PP

PP Rims
255/40/19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asy
285/40/19 Goodyear LS2
Koni Yellows
Steeda Bump Stops
Steeda Shock Mounts
BMR Springs SP083R
BMR Rear Differential Lockout

I’ve posted previous threads about poor ride quality and Stability issues.

I previously had CJPP Springs and suspected a bad setup combo.


I’ve been experiencing a pull to the right, as was as a very unstable feeling ride over bumps as well as a harsh bumpy ride (more than I’d expect)

I also had not had an alignment since this work as I have not had time with my schedule.

I did get my alignment done today at a regular shop, until I can him a performance shop. He was ALMOST able to get everything into spec.

Long behold I still have a pull to the right. Car seems a little better but over all (even though it’s hard to remember) I would gamble to say that car car rides was worse than it did on stock pp suspension.

What did I do wrong here?

Some other notes. My rear tires are worn more in the inner tire due to I guess not getting and alignment? Even after the alignment I still see a visual defat I’ve camber and the wheels are cambered / \ like so. Lol. Not to mention there’s tires are not matched to the fronts.

I have been looking at getting a set of 19x10 19x11 Forbes wheels with 285/305 front/back or something in this range. I’d assume this will help my ride a bit.

The car seems very clunky over rough roads and seems to shift a lot front and back going over patched roads and suck. Even a minor pot whole feels like a crater.

I may have multiple issues here I’m hoping for some help.

I will answer all questions to help specify.

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[Rebellion]

I would look at the subframe to see if it's aligned/centered first, then revisit the alignment. If getting within spec is getting green on the machine, you could be far off from an optimal alignment. Can you post the before/after alignment sheet?

 

[Pauliejr]

I should mention in installed all components. Not sure if the rear subframe as a hand in this? The rear definitely dances/ jumps around going over bumps or catching a bump on one rear tire. But the front seems to be “clunky” as well and decently pulling to the right still after alignment.

FYI I have Konis on about 3/4 firm

 

[Pauliejr]

I would look at the subframe to see if it's aligned/centered first, then revisit the alignment. If getting within spec is getting green on the machine, you could be far off from an optimal alignment. Can you post the before/after alignment sheet?

What do you suggest to align the rear? I didn’t get an alignment spec sheet. I got this done at a local tire shop just till I can get to the performance alignment shop. Limited appointments. I believe the front the guy said he could only get to 0 camber and it’s maxed out. Even though I have camber bolts. Not many people know how to align these cars it’s sad.

 

[Rebellion]

What do you suggest to align the rear? I didn’t get an alignment spec sheet. I got this done at a local tire shop just till I can get to the performance alignment shop. Limited appointments. I believe the front the guy said he could only get to 0 camber and it’s maxed out. Even though I have camber bolts. Not many people know how to align these cars it’s sad.

Something is wrong...front should be about -1.5 camber without bolts/plates. I like the rear to be slightly less negative than the front, about 0.3-0.5 less. Rear toe in 0.1 each side and 0 toe front.

 

[BmacIL]

Pm incoming

 

[Safridi22]

Need to sort this mess out.

2016 GT PP

PP Rims
255/40/19 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asy
285/40/19 Goodyear LS2
Koni Yellows
Steeda Bump Stops
Steeda Shock Mounts
BMR Springs SP083R
BMR Rear Differential Lockout

I’ve posted previous threads about poor ride quality and Stability issues.

I previously had CJPP Springs and suspected a bad setup combo.


I’ve been experiencing a pull to the right, as was as a very unstable feeling ride over bumps as well as a harsh bumpy ride (more than I’d expect)

I also had not had an alignment since this work as I have not had time with my schedule.

I did get my alignment done today at a regular shop, until I can him a performance shop. He was ALMOST able to get everything into spec.

Long behold I still have a pull to the right. Car seems a little better but over all (even though it’s hard to remember) I would gamble to say that car car rides was worse than it did on stock pp suspension.

What did I do wrong here?

Some other notes. My rear tires are worn more in the inner tire due to I guess not getting and alignment? Even after the alignment I still see a visual defat I’ve camber and the wheels are cambered / \ like so. Lol. Not to mention there’s tires are not matched to the fronts.

I have been looking at getting a set of 19x10 19x11 Forbes wheels with 285/305 front/back or something in this range. I’d assume this will help my ride a bit.

The car seems very clunky over rough roads and seems to shift a lot front and back going over patched roads and suck. Even a minor pot whole feels like a crater.

I may have multiple issues here I’m hoping for some help.

I will answer all questions to help specify.

where in long island are you?

 

[Pauliejr]

where in long island are you?

Nassau county in the Woodbury/Huntington area

 

[Safridi22]

Nassau county in the Woodbury/Huntington area

nice im from New Hyde Park. Just didn't really see many s550s around locally.

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Did you clock the bushings after install, before the alignment?

 

[Pauliejr]

Did you clock the bushings after install, before the alignment?

I personally did not, so I would think not. I will have to see if the performance alignment shop I go to next weekend will do this for me. What issue do you think this would cause ?

I did the initial install of just spring with the PP Shocks. Then pulled them out and changed over to Konis. Then I did the diff lockout. Then pulled everything out again to swap to bmr springs with the Konis and bump stops. And rear shock mounts.

So things has been taken apart and re assembled multiple times without getting an alignment or anything since I didn’t want to keep having to go get it.

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Soften up those konis a bit, that combo isn't going to ride perfectly smooth no matter what you do but it should not feel unstable.

What bumpstops are you using in the rear?

BMR discusses the issues it can cause in the thread linked below. From what you're describing, this could be at least part of the problem.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...hose-bushings-after-lowering-your-s550.44129/

And here's what the shop should do:

 

[Pauliejr]

Soften up those konis a bit, that combo isn't going to ride perfectly smooth no matter what you do but it should not feel unstable.

What bumpstops are you using in the rear?

BMR discusses the issues it can cause in the thread linked below. From what you're describing, this could be at least part of the problem.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...hose-bushings-after-lowering-your-s550.44129/

And here's what the shop should do:

I am running the steeda adjustable bump stops.

Not so much the unstable feeling anymore. Just feels sloppy

 

[ArcsandSparks]

I am running the steeda adjustable bump stops.

Not so much the unstable feeling anymore. Just feels sloppy

One less thing to worry about then.

The bushings not being clocked could cause the sloppiness you're feeling, it might be a pain but make sure the shop loosens ALL the pivot points before aligning, not just the ones that are easy to get to.

 

[Pauliejr]

One less thing to worry about then.

The bushings not being clocked could cause the sloppiness you're feeling, it might be a pain but make sure the shop loosens ALL the pivot points before aligning, not just the ones that are easy to get to.

I will have them give this a shot this weekend.

Could this also be a reason it’s “hard to get into spec” or not able to fully get into spec as I heard from the regular shop that did it this past weekend ?

Or is there another issue

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