Modified 16 6MT difficult/impossible to select R,1,2

[kapiteinlangzaam]

Hey folks, brain picking time.

Full mods below:

16 PP1 6MT
Roush SC 625WHP
catless LTs
LPX800 clutch
MGW racespec
McLeod release bearing, stainless lines
BMR rear cradle lockout, including drilled pumpkin

The SC kit was installed about two months ago, along with the new LPX800 clutch, flywheel, McLeod release bearing and stainless lines. It was done by a shop I trust 100%, the release bearing was bled on the bench etc.

The whole system now has about 4000 miles on it. The gearbox most of the time behaves nicely, but lately its been more and more difficult to select R, 1, or 2 when the car is warm/hot. With the LTs the whole transmission tunnel area does get decently warm. Its been getting gradually worse, but yesterday after pulling into a highway rest stop, it took me a full 45s to get the car in R.

I just cant get the shifter through the gate. And when it does go, its with a bit of a 'pop' type feeling. Once on the move everything is great, it shifts like butter. Its only at a standstill, or shifting down 3-2 in slow moving traffic.

Could the locked out rear cradle and pumpkin affect it? Stiffening up the geometry of the driveline or something? FWIW its been a while since the transmission fluid was changed.

When I got the car back from the shop initially it drove perfectly..... its now degrading over time.

Insights very welcome!

Any ideas? A forum search suggested maybe its the pilot bearing?

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[kapiteinlangzaam]

A forum search suggested pilot bearing? Could that be it?

 

[silverbullet85]

Sounds like you need to yank your trans and have a shop go through it.

 

[kapiteinlangzaam]

The problem is 100% heat related.

I drove the car saturday morning, sunday morning and today. When I get in and the driveline is cold, it functions perfectly.

I drive it for 30 mins / miles , once everything is good and hot then it starts to play up.

First thing in the morning it drives perfectly.


Its got Royal Purple transmission fluid in it at the moment, but to be honest that could easily be 40k miles old.

Ive ordered up some BG Syncro II, my first stop will be a fluid change, and then maybe something to aid cooling. If that doesnt help, then ill have to get it to a shop.

 

[Zrussian13]

Hey folks, brain picking time.

Full mods below:

16 PP1 6MT
Roush SC 625WHP
catless LTs
LPX800 clutch
MGW racespec
McLeod release bearing, stainless lines
BMR rear cradle lockout, including drilled pumpkin

The SC kit was installed about two months ago, along with the new LPX800 clutch, flywheel, McLeod release bearing and stainless lines. It was done by a shop I trust 100%, the release bearing was bled on the bench etc.

The whole system now has about 4000 miles on it. The gearbox most of the time behaves nicely, but lately its been more and more difficult to select R, 1, or 2 when the car is warm/hot. With the LTs the whole transmission tunnel area does get decently warm. Its been getting gradually worse, but yesterday after pulling into a highway rest stop, it took me a full 45s to get the car in R.

I just cant get the shifter through the gate. And when it does go, its with a bit of a 'pop' type feeling. Once on the move everything is great, it shifts like butter. Its only at a standstill, or shifting down 3-2 in slow moving traffic.

Could the locked out rear cradle and pumpkin affect it? Stiffening up the geometry of the driveline or something? FWIW its been a while since the transmission fluid was changed.

When I got the car back from the shop initially it drove perfectly..... its now degrading over time.

Insights very welcome!

Any ideas? A forum search suggested maybe its the pilot bearing?

Kinda sounds like clutch drag. Possibly the lpx wasn't installed right or is defective. I had similar issues before getting the clutch shimmed correctly.

 

[kapiteinlangzaam]

Kinda sounds like clutch drag. Possibly the lpx wasn't installed right or is defective. I had similar issues before getting the clutch shimmed correctly.

Would clutch drag be affected by heat?

 

[Zrussian13]

Mine was. At first it was easier to drive in the mornings or right after I fired it up later in the day but after driving for a while it would get very hard to put into 1st or reverse mostly unless I was rolling.

Not sure who installed your lpx but it has a note in the instructions to check clearances between the flywheel, first disc and flex plate. I followed this note. Spoke to lethal and mcleod, and had to remove shims to get to the specified range. After driving it for a few thousand miles trying to figure it out I spoke to lethal and mcleod again and got a totally different story the second time around. They said I never should have followed that note and it's preshimmed from the factory. I pulled the tranny and reinstalled the shims and it's much better now. I wouldn't call it perfect but it drives and engages pretty damn good and holds power excellent.

 

[givemeadollar]

it's the McLeod throwout bearing, they are shit. only use oem ford. We won't install a clutch/ trans with one, even lethal updated there package for the lpx and lpxhd to include oem ford instead of McLeod.

 

[Zrussian13]

it's the McLeod throwout bearing, they are shit. only use oem ford. We won't install a clutch/ trans with one, even lethal updated there package for the lpx and lpxhd to include oem ford instead of McLeod.

I wouldn't rule this out either. Didn't catch it at first that the op didn't use an oem TOB but I agree the mcleod's are a crap shoot.

 

[givemeadollar]

I wouldn't rule this out either. Didn't catch it at first that the op didn't use an oem TOB but I agree the mcleod's are a crap shoot.

Yup, it just sucks that if its the throwout bearing you have to redo 90% of the job.

 

[Zrussian13]

Yup, it just sucks that if its the throwout bearing you have to redo 90% of the job.

Trust me I know. I had to drop my tranny 3 times to get the clutch right. In the end I liked the results but I'd be pissed if I had paid someone to pull it each time.

 

[kapiteinlangzaam]

Damn, and here was me thinking the McLeod TOB would be an upgrade. That's annoying.

Ok, plan of action is fluid, and then check shims and probably change the TOB back to OEM.

What's the science behind the TOB going out when everything gets hot, but working when cold?

Thanks

 

[kapiteinlangzaam]

The clutch doesn't drag when cold. Will try to test when warm asap.

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