6MT durability?

[hmperf]

Maybe Im paranoid, I don't know.... but how durable are the 6speed manuals on GT's? Im pushing about 750hp with stock tranny and clutch. Never a hard launch (not saying I wont sometime but haven't yet) and no hard shifting. Mostly because Im still getting to know the car and would prefer to not write it off. But as I get more comfortable with the car I know Ill push it harder.

I did the ford performance half shaft upgrade, I hear the OE ones will go pop pretty easily. whats the next weakest link?

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[jhatley7]

Type of FI plays a big part. Durability depends entirely on driver and rubber. I replaced clutch, drive shaft, half shafts and transmission. I would say your clutch would be next. Also if you are planning on doing a t56/tr6060 swap, wait to buy a clutch and driveshaft.

 

[EFI]

Your clutch will probably be the first thing to go, or at least start slipping. The transmission itself shouldn't be a problem unless you abuse it and over-rev it, especially if you have good fluids in there.

 

[hmperf]

Your clutch will probably be the first thing to go, or at least start slipping. The transmission itself shouldn't be a problem unless you abuse it and over-rev it, especially if you have good fluids in there.

Thats good to know. Clutches are relatively cheap and easy vs transmissions. Any recommendations as to which one I should consider? Im about 750hp now, and do plan on using every bit of that when it warms up. :clap2:

 

[whatsup62]

Depends on your goals, how you shift, and what clutch you choose in the future.
I have blown through one MT82 already and expect this one not to last the summer...that's why I am having one made a little stronger to put back in. If you do not hammer the shifts and go with a non-ceramic style clutch you will probably be fine.

 

[hmperf]

Thanks Whatsup62
I dont ever intend on bringing it to the strip, however the very occasional semi-hard launch from a stop light is not unheard of. I may be an 'adult' but mentally, not so much. *cough*. Im amazed the rubber donuts in the driveshaft survive.

I talked to the guys at Ford Performance this morning, they also said with a good oil in the tranny, the next thing to go will be my clutch, and unless I race it, the driveshaft and tranny should be fine with 750hp. The ford performance half shafts are good for 1500hp. Im nowhere near that, and dont ever intend on being there!

So Im thinking at some point in the future when I feel my clutch slipping, Ill get maybe a spec clutch or twin disk clutch. I have a dual disk clutch in my '68 Camaro RS/SS which is a 496 at around 650hp and it is a dream to drive, so Id go that route for sure.

 

[Kong76]

I have 10k miles all stock. I have little faith in this tranny. Just sounds and runs like shit.

 

[Demon Coyote]

I am at 18k miles on my car with stock clutch, stock driveshaft, DSS half shafts and my car has been boosted for 5k miles.

While N/A (~400whp) with bolt ons I've been to the strip 3 times and did about 10 runs each time. The first time was on stock PP tires and wheel. The other two times was on drag radials. Banged through the gears since I was N/A. Stock clutch, stock driveshaft and upgraded DSS half shafts. I've also abused it on the street a handful of times too.

Now being boosted (~600whp) for about 5k miles I've launched mine on the street with drag radials a couple of times and it's been fine so far. I've taken mine to the 1/2 mile event and did a couple of runs on street tires (only launched it 2-3 times) and shifted a little slower through the gears than I usually do. I'm a little scared to take it to the drag strip now which is why I'm waiting to upgrade my clutch and driveshaft. So far my stock clutch and driveshaft are still fine and I take it out every weekend and always do at least one pull lol.

I guess in the end it all depends on driver (and a little bit of luck lol) and how you treat your clutch whenever you drive the car. I've been fortunate so far that it's all been holding up ok but clutch is definitely my next mod for piece of mind. Sorry for ranting but thought I would share how I've treated my car and how my MT-82 has been holding up so far.

 

[hmperf]

Thats great news Demon, thanks! Sounds like you will put more wear on yours at 18K than I will on mine in 100K! Im also around 650WHP but have no intentions of ever bringing it to the drag strip. Possibly a road course type race track which I frequent but that isnt that hard on the parts. Im also really easy on the drive train. Easy shifts, wait for full warm, (even tranny) and rev match. Hopefully it will last a long time, and you're giving me hope.
The reality of it though, is a clutch upgrade isnt even that big of a deal on these, so Im probably being overly paranoid!

 

[ZanarkO]

To be honest, stay with the softest possible clutch you can run and dont use heavy pressure plates. Alot of MT82 owners go overboard with their clutch selection and the fact that alot of people are running OEM clutches should be a clear indication that hey you could be fine with a street disc. Dont use no lift shifting and dont slam your car in gear for a downshift (ALOT of stang owners do this). Also learn to rev match, and rev match every time you down shift and dont wear out the synchros. This is coming from a previous WRX owner that had 400whp on stock tranny for 100k miles. I know how to make a tranny last a long while lol

 

[Kong76]

That rev matching takes alot of practice for sure. I still don't have it completely down due to my tad bit of throttle delay and lack of rpm guessing. Might be a stupid question but when down shiftingn do you guys just push the clutch in blip the throttle downshift let the clutch out then get back into the gas or do you keep your foot slightly on the gas the entire time during the downshift?

 

[LG23]

That rev matching takes alot of practice for sure. I still don't have it completely down due to my tad bit of throttle delay and lack of rpm guessing. Might be a stupid question but when down shiftingn do you guys just push the clutch in blip the throttle downshift let the clutch out then get back into the gas or do you keep your foot slightly on the gas the entire time during the downshift?

Clutch in, neutral, blip depending on how high you need to match, gear in, clutch out/gas.

Unless I'm driving super spirited, I usually double clutch so I don't blip the throttle with the clutch in. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, blip, clutch in, gear, clutch out. Prob not necessary and I figure I'm being extra safe but it's really not that much harder.

 

[ZanarkO]

The way I do it is I will either heal and toe going into a turn while on the brakes or if I want to down shift I will... Ok say Im in 4th gear I will put the clutch in (with my hand ont he shifter while in 4th) Ill blip the throttle while I disengage the clutch at the sam etiming moving the gear shift from 4th into 3rd and then I let off the clutch and its a smooth transition and no "bump" down shifting. I mean technically you are still wearing down the syncros doing it this way but you are saving the input shafts and not causing a shock on the crank.

 

[ZanarkO]

if Im lazy sometimes I will double clutch and put it in neutral put in the clutch a second time, blip the throttle then put it in the lower gear. I do this for high way pulls etc.

 

[hmperf]

Clutch in, neutral, blip depending on how high you need to match, gear in, clutch out/gas.

Unless I'm driving super spirited, I usually double clutch so I don't blip the throttle with the clutch in. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, blip, clutch in, gear, clutch out. Prob not necessary and I figure I'm being extra safe but it's really not that much harder.

This is the right way. If its really light, slow shifting, you can blip the throttle with the clutch in, since it all never really 100% disengages. But to really get the input shaft (and therefore synchros) up to speed, or down to speed... is to blip the throttle with the clutch out and the box in neutral.

Also, dont sit at stop lights with the clutch in.

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