Magneride - Lacking Damping, but no codes

[Metastable]

I purchased a 2021 Mach 1 with Handling Package with less than 20,000 miles. Hoping to get some ideas on which rabbit hole to go down to sort out the suspension.

- During test drive I didn't hit any compressions or bumps, so I didn't notice the lack of rebound and compression damping. On a smooth surface the car seems to corner fine. I am sure if I started to really push, this wouldn't be the case.
- If the vehicle goes through a compression or the opposite, it starts to oscillate up and down as if the vehicle has worn struts. It's almost embarrassing how much it bounces up and down. The suspension acts as if there is little to no damping. Statically pushing down on a corner doesn't seem to show anything. The springs are too stiff to see any meaningful static bouncing.
- The suspension and springs appears to be stock.
- On a canyon road with compressions mid-corner, it becomes a total handful.
- The performance settings don't seem to change the damping, and they shouldn't.
- No error messages on the dash
- Cheap OBD2 scan tool shows no codes.
- I have an old FORScan tool that I tried to hookup and it wasn't recognizing the vehicle. We manually punched in some vehicles codes and it thought it was a 2.3T (which it definitely is not), but I was able to run a Body Module code check and nothing shows up there either.... but not sure if it was scanning properly.
- With the wheels removed, the sensors all seem to be in the correct spot. It is hard for me to tell if a bracket might be bent, but it doesn't appear to be.
- No signs of leaking on any corner.
- Electrical connectors look good.

So if folks have experienced a similar issue with MagneRide, please explain the resolution. Yes we can do a MagneRide delete, but I don't want to go there just yet. I have a feeling this is electrical related. Maybe the control unit is not grounded properly? Any other suggestions? I could try to get a newer FORScan tool and see what it says while driving down the road.

Also - Do you folks know of any suspension specialists in So Cal that have a really good feel for MagneRide? Thanks.

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[zackmd1]

Have you checked fuse 24 in the BCM and fuse 66 in the engine bay? Should be a 30 amp and 5 amp. F24 is battery power and F66 is switched power for the VDM (magnaride controller). Other then that, the Magnaride system is surprisingly standalone. Since all corners seem to have no dampening then I would suspect a controller issue.

 

[kz]

Go look into the trunk of whether the controller is the original Ford VDM or aftermarket DSC Sport (it's on the right side of the trunk under the carpet, have to take plastic trim covering trunk lid latch). This sounds like a stock DSC Tune.

Does the suspension feel change between different drive modes (specifically Normal and Track) ?

I don't think the damper itself has any feedback loop to the controller so if for some reason one or both defective, controller doesn't know and just feeds current into it - ideally you'd have to switch with a good one.
I have two rear Magride dampers laying on my garage floor but I am pretty far away from SoCal.

 

[Skye]

I can think of two things:

- Pay a dealer to hock up with FDRS and check all modules, their connectivity and firmware version

- While there, have the dealer perform an alignment, giving you before and after readings

While those two actions might not fix the problem, it will at least clear those variables.

 

[WItoTX]

Agreed, that doesn't sound right, and I'd check the controller first exactly like kz suggested. Every M1 I've been in rides great.

 

[Metastable]

Hmmmm checked fuse 66 in the engine bay and it checks out. Now....the interior fuse box by the footwell seems a bit off. From research is appears the VDM module should be fuse 25. However instead of a 30A fuse it has a 20A fuse. The 20A fuse doesn't appear to be blown. Not sure if that would affect anything if the fuse isn't blown.

 

[Metastable]

Also it appears fuse 24 and 28 should be 20A and mine has a 30A fuse.

Edit - I just checked on eBay and a number of the fuse boxes have the same fuse arrangement as mine. I dunno. I did check the slot 24 fuse (30A) and it also appears to be ok showing 0.00.

I haven't had time to check if it is a stock VDM yet.

 

[zackmd1]

Straight from the service manual. F24 and F66. This is the extent of the connections the VDM has to the rest of the vehicle. It should appear as a module in Forscan when connecting as it has HS2 CAN connection. The rest of the connections are to the struts and ride height sensors. Since the issue appears to be related to the system as a whole, wouldn't make sense for a single strut or ride hight sensor to take the system down. Likewise, all struts and sensors would not go bad at the same time... So I would start with the controller and work my way up from there. Check the easy things like power and ground, check that its an OEM module, then scan with an up to date version of Forscan to see if there are any DTCs present in the VDM or ABS.

 

[KilgoreLSU]

I'd check to see if someone put a bypass on the magnaride. They make them for when you put in coil overs.. I don't know if they use resistors or a module to do it.

If they did, then you won't get any codes with the ECU and you also get no use from the magnaride.

It does get stiffer as you change driving modes.. If there is no change, then they have failed or are disconnected.

 

[Metastable]

Thanks for the responses everyone. Some good ideas. I partially removed the latch cover and was able to lift the carpet enough to take this photo. It appears to be a stock VDM. When I have a bit more time I will try to trouble shoot power and ground. Thanks for the diagram!

 

[kz]

It sure is a stock unit.

How about the differences between drive modes ? Anything changes ? If not, my bet is on a dead shock(s).

 

[Skye]

Has the OP disconnected the negative cable from the battery, then letting the car sit? For an hour? Or several hours? There have been no obvious codes, display events, alarms or aftermarket equipment installed. Disconnecting the battery for a while and giving the car a chance to reboot, maybe that'll shake something loose. In a good way.

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