Lowering Springs Installation Labor Costs

[tdstuart]

I would never lower a Mustang (or any car for that matter) with only springs, unless you want it to drive like crap.

Bought MBRP drag lowering springs. Car looked better and noticeably handled better in turns even though its meant for launching. Yes car probably has a slightly rougher ride, but I didn't buy my springs to make the car more comfortable.

If you buy springs from a reputable place that are meant to replace stock springs, then I don't see why they would make your car drive like crap. Tons of people do this mod and enjoy the results.

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[jamesmendoza30]

Ford service documents are your friend. Also lowering spring manufacturer likely has a tutorial.

Imma be honest, I pulled my engine, and completely disassembled it from ford service docs, and youtube.

Only "training" I have had is a 1 year highschool auto class that I didn't even show up to second semester. Granted I did disassemble and engine and pull a trans to do a clutch job, but really didn't learn much more than the very basics of engine and car parts.

If I remember correctly the lowering springs weren't bad to do on my mustang. Another option if you have another car is to save some trouble with spring compressing and take the strut and the new springs to a shop, give them $50-$100 bucks to swap the spring. Any local shop should be able to do it. Saves you lots of headaches.

Biggest thing you also need to know is that you need a generic set of metric sockets and a decent sized ratcheting socket wrench (Brake caliper bolts are torqued really high, may even need a breaker bar). You will also need to pickup a ft lb torque wrench to tighten the bolts/nuts. There are a few bolts and nuts that ford says you should replace (for my 15 gt) but I didn't replace them, any many others probably wont. The pain is finding the right ones from ford (https://parts.ford.com/en.html). If you take it to anyone but a dealership they probably won't replace the bolts/nuts unless you bring them and ask. Probably looking at a 200-300 for tools assuming you don't have anything (nuts/bolts shouldn't be much).

If I were you I would think about:
1. How much mods are you likely to do in the future.
2. How much money will you spend on parts and possible labor on said future mods
3. How much money you are willing to spend

If you want to do lots of things (keep in mind modding is addicting and you will likely want to do more) but don't have the money / don't want to spend the money on expensive labor then I would recommend buying tools and setting aside a day or 2 and doing the lowering springs yourself. But if you aren't wanting to do anything else, don't already have tools, and don't mind spending the extra money, then find a shop, make sure they have access to the torque specs and ask them to get you new bolts/nuts or buy new ones and give it to them.

I'm broke as shit so I have no choice. But it honestly worked out for me. Got the mustang knowing absolutely nothing about cars and a year latter was fbo, and now pulled and disassembled the motor to get it machined. (Blew up cause of me choosing to risk and run a bad tune, not because of any of the work).
Here is a list of all the things I did myself: Headers, lowering springs, cranksprocket, oil pump gears, timing chains, engine mount, intake mainfold, cai, blackout badges, cat-back exhaust, valve cover/timing cover gaskets, pulled the motor, and disassembled the motor.

I know I wrote you an essay, but basically my vote is do it yourself.

Dude I appreciate the detail no worries about the essay, you’re giving me a perspective and I appreciate that.

yeah you’re right about working on it. I think a part of me is hesitant to tackle that because My brute force broke a few small bolts here there like when I first did my oil change. Yeah it’s part of the learning experience too to know you can’t just muscle through using tools. So that’s why, yes I have actually seen a couple
Of springs swaps videos directly related to the s550 just my mind thinking that I should just have someone professionally qualified to get the peace of mind where I might not break something on the suspension or anything around it.

and yeah man I love working on the gt, even on small mods, not sure if I will go full bolt on but always looking to make my car fun or OEM plus hahaa. I myself added the jlt catch can,hood struts,jacking rails (Yes all simple stuff but fun to do) . I plan on changing the rotors and pads eventually since on certain times of the week the brembo pads squeak like hell from all the dust the stock pads make.

again I appreciate the time brother,you enlightened me on a very valid perspective

 

[kz]

I was quoted $900ish by two reputable places about two and half years ago so I've done it myself (springs and bars). I honestly doubt you can get a quote much lower than that right now, when everything is more expensive.

Now, if you try to do it yourself, don't use Ford Service docs for rear springs, there's easier way to do it.

 

[Cordero1]

Dude I appreciate the detail no worries about the essay, you’re giving me a perspective and I appreciate that.

yeah you’re right about working on it. I think a part of me is hesitant to tackle that because My brute force broke a few small bolts here there like when I first did my oil change. Yeah it’s part of the learning experience too to know you can’t just muscle through using tools. So that’s why, yes I have actually seen a couple
Of springs swaps videos directly related to the s550 just my mind thinking that I should just have someone professionally qualified to get the peace of mind where I might not break something on the suspension or anything around it.

and yeah man I love working on the gt, even on small mods, not sure if I will go full bolt on but always looking to make my car fun or OEM plus hahaa. I myself added the jlt catch can,hood struts,jacking rails (Yes all simple stuff but fun to do) . I plan on changing the rotors and pads eventually since on certain times of the week the brembo pads squeak like hell from all the dust the stock pads make.

again I appreciate the time brother,you enlightened me on a very valid perspective

If it gives you any piece of mind, brute force IS what is required to install the springs, especially the rears lol. Only part you will need to take it easy on is the front top strut nut. Just get a free spring rental from O'Reilly auto store. If possible get the claw looking ones. I have the cheap Harbor Freight ones & it took a little longer with those. But still very doable for a weekend morning. Another idea for the fronts would be to remove them yourself, take the whole thing to a shop, & have them press on the new ones for you. I had asked my local shop & they told me $20 just for that. Even though in the end I started the job too late in the day so just pressed them on/off myself.

 

[jamesmendoza30]

Thanks everyone for all the input, I will shop around see what $$ I find and other resources I can gather, I’ll give an update what happens when I get everything done , I appreciate all the feedback and perspectives

 

[tdstuart]

Dude I appreciate the detail no worries about the essay, you’re giving me a perspective and I appreciate that.

yeah you’re right about working on it. I think a part of me is hesitant to tackle that because My brute force broke a few small bolts here there like when I first did my oil change. Yeah it’s part of the learning experience too to know you can’t just muscle through using tools. So that’s why, yes I have actually seen a couple
Of springs swaps videos directly related to the s550 just my mind thinking that I should just have someone professionally qualified to get the peace of mind where I might not break something on the suspension or anything around it.

and yeah man I love working on the gt, even on small mods, not sure if I will go full bolt on but always looking to make my car fun or OEM plus hahaa. I myself added the jlt catch can,hood struts,jacking rails (Yes all simple stuff but fun to do) . I plan on changing the rotors and pads eventually since on certain times of the week the brembo pads squeak like hell from all the dust the stock pads make.

again I appreciate the time brother,you enlightened me on a very valid perspective

I always mess up loosening and tightening for some reason. Broke one of my starter bolts because i was accidentally tightening it and it was just spinning and then snapped.

Pry bar set + Plastic Trim Removal tool + Making sure you are loosening / tightening will save you from breaking things. Then when you torque anything important down just pull up torque specs. It also does take some patience and some experience to make sure you don't strip hard to reach bolts.


Also the front struts is basically removing the brake caliper assembly (which you need to do to change pads) and 2 more bolts/nuts, 1 nut, and the top strut nuts.

I forget how I did the rear but it was really easy and I used a combination of tutorials to make the easiest install possible. I think ford docs says to do a ton more stuff which you don't need to do.

 

[kz]

Rear you unbolt rear damper from control arm, drop subframe on one side and pull the spring out. CJ pony has a video on how to do it.

 

[elcamino]

Semi old thread here but I have relevant questions so here goes.

I'm contemplating installing my Steeda Magenride Sport Lowering springs instead of taking it to a shop. First winter weather is coming tomorrow so the GT is locked in the garage until the salt washes away in March. I need something to do to since I won't be driving for a few months and I have urges. Other than the upper camber bolts, do I need to also replace the bottom OEM bolts? I read they are one-time use. Does that include loosening and re-torque once camber is set?
From what I understand, the rear does not need anything done. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, do I need to take the car to a specialty shop for alignment or will a regular alignment shop be able to do it assuming they're okay with doing it?

 

[kz]

Semi old thread here but I have relevant questions so here goes.

I'm contemplating installing my Steeda Magenride Sport Lowering springs instead of taking it to a shop. First winter weather is coming tomorrow so the GT is locked in the garage until the salt washes away in March. I need something to do to since I won't be driving for a few months and I have urges. Other than the upper camber bolts, do I need to also replace the bottom OEM bolts? I read they are one-time use. Does that include loosening and re-torque once camber is set?
From what I understand, the rear does not need anything done. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, do I need to take the car to a specialty shop for alignment or will a regular alignment shop be able to do it assuming they're okay with doing it?

I've reused strut bolts and had them off and back on several times - but yes, manual tells you to toss them. Are you going to install a camber bolt ? Regular alignment shop will try to do what's in the manual (which doesn't have camber bolt or camber plates). If they're half decent, they may listen to you and use the camber bolt to set the camber but don't have to.

 

[elcamino]

I've reused strut bolts and had them off and back on several times - but yes, manual tells you to toss them. Are you going to install a camber bolt ? Regular alignment shop will try to do what's in the manual (which doesn't have camber bolt or camber plates). If they're half decent, they may listen to you and use the camber bolt to set the camber but don't have to.

Yes, I planned on installing camber bolts. I'm not educated on the alignment process. Trying to learn. Are you implying camber adjustment is not something normally done or has to be done during an alignment? I understand what camber is, just not whether it plays a part in the alignment process. The Steeda springs are 1" lower so that will require the camber bolts from what I understand.

 

[kz]

Yes, I planned on installing camber bolts. I'm not educated on the alignment process. Trying to learn. Are you implying camber adjustment is not something normally done or has to be done during an alignment? I understand what camber is, just not whether it plays a part in the alignment process. The Steeda springs are 1" lower so that will require the camber bolts from what I understand.

Camber adjustment is absolutely part of the alignment process - what I am saying is that regular shop will have either have Ford manual or copy of and that basically says that front camber adjustment (on cars without factory camber plates) is by slotting the upper strut hole by up to 1 mm on each side (enlarging it) - only if it can't be put within the spec. Otherwise they won't touch camber (other than it will change while adjusting toe).

Springs will add negative camber and you still may or may not be within the spec, so camber bolts is a solution to re-adjust it - but regular shop will not know about it as they will only see what's in the manual (which says nothing about camber bolts). Makes sense ?
If you tell them about it, they're willing to and tech knows what camber bolt is - they'll use it. But it's a bunch of ifs there...

 

[Ballistica]

I was quoted 1000 for parts and labor to install the Eibach pro kit lowering springs at a local shop. Considering the cost of the springs is about 350 new, install was 650.

I’ve decided that it’s a decent DIY and I’m going to install them myself in the spring. There are a lot of good videos online, especially from CJ Pony Parts.

Here’s one:


Camber bolts look to be easy to install and are definitely recommended.

Autozone has a program where you can rent a spring compressor for free.

 

[elcamino]

I was quoted 1000 for parts and labor to install the Eibach pro kit lowering springs at a local shop. Considering the cost of the springs is about 350 new, install was 650.

I’ve decided that it’s a decent DIY and I’m going to install them myself in the spring. There are a lot of good videos online, especially from CJ Pony Parts.

Here’s one:


Camber bolts look to be easy to install and are definitely recommended.

Autozone has a program where you can rent a spring compressor for free.

That is my thought process as well.

Camber adjustment is absolutely part of the alignment process - what I am saying is that regular shop will have either have Ford manual or copy of and that basically says that front camber adjustment (on cars without factory camber plates) is by slotting the upper strut hole by up to 1 mm on each side (enlarging it) - only if it can't be put within the spec. Otherwise they won't touch camber (other than it will change while adjusting toe).

Springs will add negative camber and you still may or may not be within the spec, so camber bolts is a solution to re-adjust it - but regular shop will not know about it as they will only see what's in the manual (which says nothing about camber bolts). Makes sense ?
If you tell them about it, they're willing to and tech knows what camber bolt is - they'll use it. But it's a bunch of ifs there...

Makes sense. I have two Mustang shops within an hour drive. I may reach out to them to discuss aligning after the job is done if my local tire/alignment shop won’t do it.

 

[Robottrainer]

Hey Mustang community,

first time positing on the forums, just got my 21 mustang gt pp1 a year ago today.

so my main question is to anyone that had lowering springs installed into their fine stallion, how much were the total labor costs/ hours for a professional install? I was quoted by a ford dealership that does all performance mods for total $1500 just for spring installation, my gut was telling me “stealership” or high way robbery at that point, chime in let me know if that’s the ballpark or I can get it cheaper and still professionally done

I heard installing lowering springs is a decent diy but I personally do not want the headache of compressing the spring with the spring compressor tool plus I would rather have it done knowing a professional performed on it rather than a novice like me.

thanks mustang family,

James

Even with an alignment that's pricey.

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