LOST COMPRESSION ON ALL CYLINDERS

[ZX3ST]

I vote crank sensor or wire harness going to it.

I think more likely wiring since you have an o2 sensor code too.

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[Tank]

P0017 CMDTCs
P0138 CMDTCS
P0339 CMDTCs

From the 2016 Helm...



P0017 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B

Description: This DTC sets when a misalignment between the camshaft and crankshaft is detected. This DTC sets when the misalignment is 1 tooth or greater. This DTC can also set due to variable camshaft timing (VCT) system concerns (oil contamination or VCT solenoid stuck).
Possible Causes:

• VCT unit to camshaft alignment
• Camshaft timing incorrectly set
• Continuous oil flow to the VCT piston chamber
• Erratic camshaft position due to low oil pressure
• Oil flow restriction in the oil passages or the VCT valve body
• Variable camshaft timing bank 1 solenoid 2 (VCT12) stuck in position
• VCT12 circuit open
• VCT12 circuit short to voltage
• VCT12 circuit short to ground
• VPWR circuit open
• Camshaft advance mechanism binding (VCT unit)
• Damaged VCT12 phaser
• Damaged camshaft position bank 1 sensor 2 (CMP12)
• CMP12 sensor circuits open
• CMP12 sensor circuits short to voltage
• CMP12 sensor circuits short to ground
• Radio frequency interference

Diagnostic Aids: This DTC may be accompanied by other DTCs. Diagnose all CMP sensor DTCs first. If no CMP sensor related DTCs are present, continue to follow diagnosis for this DTC.

This DTC is a functional check of the VCT unit. Diagnose any base engine concerns related to the engine oil pressure or engine timing. Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 303-00, Engine System, Oil Pressure Test, to check the engine oil pressure. Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 303-01, Engine, to check the engine timing and VCT phasers.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
All GO to Pinpoint Test HK .

P0138 - O2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

Description: This DTC sets when an over voltage condition is present on the HO2S12 circuit.
Possible Causes:

• HO2S12 circuit short to voltage

Diagnostic Aids: An O2S12 PID voltage of 1.5 volts or greater indicates a short to voltage.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
All GO to Pinpoint Test DW .

P0339 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent

Description: This DTC sets when several erratic profile ignition pickup (PIP) pulses have occurred in the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal within a calibrated time period when the camshaft speed exceeds the equivalent speed of engine idle or the starter motor is engaged.
Possible Causes:

• CKP+ circuit intermittent open (VR type)
• CKP- circuit intermittent open (VR type)
• CKP circuit intermittent open (Hall effect type)
• VREF circuit intermittent open (Hall effect type)
• SIGRTN circuit intermittent open (Hall effect type)
• CKP+ circuit intermittent short to voltage (VR type)
• CKP- circuit intermittent short to voltage (VR type)
• CKP circuit intermittent short to voltage (Hall effect type)
• VREF circuit intermittent short to voltage (Hall effect type)
• SIGRTN circuit intermittent short to voltage (Hall effect type)
• CKP+ circuit intermittent short to ground (VR type)
• CKP- circuit intermittent short to ground (VR type)
• CKP circuit intermittent short to ground (Hall effect type)
• VREF circuit intermittent short to ground (Hall effect type)
• SIGRTN circuit intermittent short to ground (Hall effect type)
• CKP sensor incorrectly installed
• Damaged CKP sensor
• Incorrect, damaged or corroded connections
• Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, wires and plugs)
• Arcing relays or other high current devices (cooling fan or starter motor)
• On board 2 way radio transceiver
• Radio frequency interference or electromagnetic interference from an external source
• Improperly grounded high power aftermarket equipment

Diagnostic Aids:
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
All GO to Pinpoint Test JD .




Hope this his helpful....

 

[honeybadger]

Now when screwing the 14mm adapter in, does it usually screw all the way down to the o-oring?

Yeah

 

[JAJ]

P0017 CMDTCs
P0138 CMDTCS
P0339 CMDTCs

Crankshaft position sensor and voltages. You have an electrical problem.

@Tank got there first, but that's the problem you have.

 

[ice445]

Most compression testers are trash, as long as you get with 10% of the same number on every cylinder then that shows a healthy engine, never mind the 30PSI thing. Sounds like mechanically it's alright, just an electrical issue.

 

[JPG350]

Is it possible to throw a 5.0 aluminator in this car and not have all the stupid gt350 issues?

 

[JAJ]

Is it possible to throw a 5.0 aluminator in this car and not have all the stupid gt350 issues?

It's been done. You have to do some rewiring of the ECU connector to change the firing order, but other than that it's not a lot more difficult than putting an Aluminator into any other late model Mustang.

 

[JPG350]

So, the majority of you guys are leaning towards some type of electrical issue. What do you guys recommend as far as the first step? Should i attempt to tow it to the dealership for a diagnosis?

 

[JAJ]

So, the majority of you guys are leaning towards some type of electrical issue. What do you guys recommend as far as the first step? Should i attempt to tow it to the dealership for a diagnosis?

Before you do that, crawl around the wiring harness and see if there's any damage or loose connections. It has that "a connector came loose" kind of vibe. It could be worse, but start there and hope for the best.

 

[Tank]

So, the majority of you guys are leaning towards some type of electrical issue. What do you guys recommend as far as the first step? Should i attempt to tow it to the dealership for a diagnosis?

Since you ask, best to bring it in.

Don’t tow it, the GT350 needs to be flatbedded.

 

[honeybadger]

So, the majority of you guys are leaning towards some type of electrical issue. What do you guys recommend as far as the first step? Should i attempt to tow it to the dealership for a diagnosis?

Do you have a tune or anything? Completely stock?

Since it appears this issue is attributed to the crank sensor, you're likely in for a rough ride trying to do this yourself. Replacing the crank sensor if that failed or getting access to the plug is a pain. To get to the plug and wiring, you'll have to remove the intake and bunch of stuff. If you need to replace it, you have to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel.

To start, I'd inspect the wires to look for plugs that might not be secured/fully seated. Then look for anywhere you might have melted/frayed wires. After that, unless you're a big fan of wrenching, I'd tow to the dealer.

 

[Tank]

Do you have a tune or anything? Completely stock?

.

Hate to see you hanging...

Mods are in the OP.

Procharger stage 2 kit, Longtubes, Cat/Res delete, RXT1200 clutch

 

[honeybadger]

ahh,

Hate to see you hanging...

Mods are in the OP.

Procharger stage 2 kit, Longtubes, Cat/Res delete, RXT1200 clutch

Ahh, thanks for sharing. I had missed that. Good chance of it being an electrical issue. Lots of things were messed with to install those parts. Easy to break those fragile wires.

 

[Luce202]

Here’s what my steps would be if this came into me when I was working as a tech. Steps below follow verification of your compression test tool and knowing if it’s good or bad. Try it on a different car.

1. Look over all the wiring for anything obvious.
2. Did you flash a new tune before the drive when it took a dump? If so, it’s not uncommon to throw a crank sensor code after a flash. If that’s the case do a crank relearn if you have a flash device with the capabilities.
3. If you didn’t flash a new tune, pull the valve covers just to be sure that everything is spinning and you didn’t loose a chain or crank sprocket. It doesn’t take long and its a box I’d want to check before diving into the electrical system too deep.
4. If no obvious problems pop out, I would also be tempted to pull the front cover and see if a chain jumped a tooth. Especially if the the oil pump gears and crank sprocket have been done.
5. If you made it this far that’s some bummer luck. I would take it to a dealership unless you are very experienced with hunting done electrical issues.

Best of luck.

 

[JPG350]

Hey guys I havent been able to do much with the car because of work and school. This is what i have done so far.

I removed the passenger side valve cover and verified all parts are moving, timing chains, cams and valves. I have looked thru at the wiring some but not too much. When the car was in the body shop the guy at the shop noticed some codes while doing their pre/post scan. Is there anyway he could've maybe pushed a wrong button or something and messed up something tune related?

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