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Let’s talk Slotted/drilled rotors

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ChitownStang

ChitownStang

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They actually last longer because they run cooler than the OEM's, especially in the rear because the Girodiscs are cooled from the hub side rather than the wheel side.
Will it look funny if all I can swing right now is the fronts? I don't think I see too many people with mismatched rotors front and rear.
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Ben James

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OEM on the rear with two piece on the front shown below. Looks good IMO :thumbsup: but I’m bias of course!

IMG_6269.jpeg

I went with Brypar two piece rotors on the front and left the OEM on the rear… I think it looks fine and there’s no issues with braking. One big issue that some people can get is when they upgrade the rear rotor and caliper it can change the brake bias (which is bad without other considerations).

My rotors are very similar to the Girodisc two piece rotors and they save about 5 kegs of rotational mass per side. I didn’t worry about the rears as I was only going to save around 1 kg and the saving was a lot closer to the hub so it would be next to no change in dynamics.

On track it’s the fronts that take the brunt of the abuse and I think it’s probably due to my driving style (hold on and don’t die).

the main reason for my upgrade was that the OEM rotors were seen a lot more when I changed my wheels. I couldn’t stand looking at them:lipssealed:

For reference, I weighed the OEM rotors and compared it to the replacements. Below images show the differences in kilograms.

IMG_6345.jpeg

IMG_6346.jpeg

IMG_6343.jpeg
IMG_6344.jpeg
 

WD Pro

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Well here is my Eradispeed front as of today and 6-7k miles w/Z26 pads. I don’t track. Just street n occasionally strip. I have no complaints (or cracks).

IMG_8808.jpeg
You still have the original machining marks !

With less than half that mileage, on street use only, I have a (small) step forming on the OE Brembos' ... :frown:

1693826708866.jpeg


1693826655130.jpeg


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Optimum Performance

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OEM on the rear with two piece on the front shown below. Looks good IMO :thumbsup: but I’m bias of course!

IMG_6269.jpeg

I went with Brypar two piece rotors on the front and left the OEM on the rear… I think it looks fine and there’s no issues with braking. One big issue that some people can get is when they upgrade the rear rotor and caliper it can change the brake bias (which is bad without other considerations).

My rotors are very similar to the Girodisc two piece rotors and they save about 5 kegs of rotational mass per side. I didn’t worry about the rears as I was only going to save around 1 kg and the saving was a lot closer to the hub so it would be next to no change in dynamics.

On track it’s the fronts that take the brunt of the abuse and I think it’s probably due to my driving style (hold on and don’t die).

the main reason for my upgrade was that the OEM rotors were seen a lot more when I changed my wheels. I couldn’t stand looking at them:lipssealed:

For reference, I weighed the OEM rotors and compared it to the replacements. Below images show the differences in kilograms.

IMG_6345.jpeg

IMG_6346.jpeg

IMG_6343.jpeg
IMG_6344.jpeg
Those appear to be fixed 2 piece rotors, not floating. You have 2 different materials with different expansion rates which I would presume is fine unless you get them hot. That puts a lot of load on the rotor fasteners as the two pieces try to expand but are bolted together and both components need to flex to remain together.
 
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OEM on the rear with two piece on the front shown below. Looks good IMO :thumbsup: but I’m bias of course!

IMG_6269.jpeg

I went with Brypar two piece rotors on the front and left the OEM on the rear… I think it looks fine and there’s no issues with braking. One big issue that some people can get is when they upgrade the rear rotor and caliper it can change the brake bias (which is bad without other considerations).

My rotors are very similar to the Girodisc two piece rotors and they save about 5 kegs of rotational mass per side. I didn’t worry about the rears as I was only going to save around 1 kg and the saving was a lot closer to the hub so it would be next to no change in dynamics.

On track it’s the fronts that take the brunt of the abuse and I think it’s probably due to my driving style (hold on and don’t die).

the main reason for my upgrade was that the OEM rotors were seen a lot more when I changed my wheels. I couldn’t stand looking at them:lipssealed:

For reference, I weighed the OEM rotors and compared it to the replacements. Below images show the differences in kilograms.

IMG_6345.jpeg

IMG_6346.jpeg

IMG_6343.jpeg
IMG_6344.jpeg
Thanks for this Ben.
Would you say you were able to feel the difference in rolling weight at all in daily driving or in track?
 

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So I have a 21 Mach 1 and I’m looking to waste a little money.
I have no complaints with the stock Brenbo setup but I really want the look of the drilled rotors. The M cars all have them and they look so much better in this department.
I only take the car to the track once or twice a year so mostly street use.
Is there a slotted/drilled rotor I can use that won’t be too aggressive for the street and that won’t cause crazy brake dust or wear out my pads super fast?
I've run Powerstop drilled and slotted for two years with Z26 pads. Zero dust after bedding the pads per instructions. Everything works great and didn't cost a fortune. If I were tracking the car a lot I'd have opted to spend more. Pads equal to or better than stockand as I said no dust.
Screenshot_20230322_135625_Gallery.jpg
 
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Well, I never in a million years thought I’d spend a grand on rotors but after alot of reading I bought the front slotted Girodisc’s from Opmustang at the 11th hour last night.
It just made sense for functional mods I want for my Mach 1.
not sure the rears are as important for$900 but I couldn’t squeeze anything more out for my 45th birthday… lol
With OCD kicking in, I’ll probably need to match them on the next sale.
 

Ben James

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Well, I never in a million years thought I’d spend a grand on rotors but after alot of reading I bought the front slotted Girodisc’s from Opmustang at the 11th hour last night.
It just made sense for functional mods I want for my Mach 1.
not sure the rears are as important for$900 but I couldn’t squeeze anything more out for my 45th birthday… lol
With OCD kicking in, I’ll probably need to match them on the next sale.
Impulsive and irrational spending…. Gotta love the Mustang experience :muscle: :crackup:
 

Bluemustang

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Well, I never in a million years thought I’d spend a grand on rotors but after alot of reading I bought the front slotted Girodisc’s from Opmustang at the 11th hour last night.
It just made sense for functional mods I want for my Mach 1.
not sure the rears are as important for$900 but I couldn’t squeeze anything more out for my 45th birthday… lol
With OCD kicking in, I’ll probably need to match them on the next sale.
Good man! Functional is the way to go.
 

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TundraOnKings

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Well, I never in a million years thought I’d spend a grand on rotors but after alot of reading I bought the front slotted Girodisc’s from Opmustang at the 11th hour last night.
It just made sense for functional mods I want for my Mach 1.
not sure the rears are as important for$900 but I couldn’t squeeze anything more out for my 45th birthday… lol
With OCD kicking in, I’ll probably need to match them on the next sale.
You’ll be happy, I’m sure. Buy once, cry once.
On the S550, I made the Baer Sport mistake, figured since they were $600.00 (fronts) they’d last a decent while. 2 track days and the cracks came quickly.
Yanked them off and went Steeda 2-pc, which worked excellent.
I’ll be ordering the Girodiscs for my 911 probably tomorrow, after hours of research the past few days.
IMG_8984.jpeg
IMG_8983.jpeg
IMG_8982.jpeg
 

ihc95

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Does anyone have any pictures of the Girodiscs installed?
 

TundraOnKings

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Yeah except you also cry every time you replace the rotors to the tune of $850 for the replacement rings.
True, but you do that a LOT less often than with Baer’s, or the other cheap alternatives. Running stocks/cheaper alternatives doesn’t make sense if you use your car hard.
The stock Brembo calipers are great when paired with Steeda 2PC rotors, and GLOC R12’s front and R8/R10 rear, I’m sure just like Girodisc, is an excellent option before moving to a straight up race kit like the AP Radi-Cal, at $6K (front only), when the calipers in the kit aren’t needed.
 
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Dave2013M3

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You’ll be happy, I’m sure. Buy once, cry once.
On the S550, I made the Baer Sport mistake, figured since they were $600.00 (fronts) they’d last a decent while. 2 track days and the cracks came quickly.
Yanked them off and went Steeda 2-pc, which worked excellent.
I’ll be ordering the Girodiscs for my 911 probably tomorrow, after hours of research the past few days.
IMG_8984.jpeg
IMG_8983.jpeg
IMG_8982.jpeg
Those were the sports correct? Not the Eradispeed
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