Knuckle to Toe Bearing help

[Sub-Moa]

So I attempted to remove the knuckle to toe bearing so I could install the Ford performance version of them yesterday. I thought it wouldn't be that bad with the right tools. Was I wrong or what. Those little bearings are a complete bear and I couldn't get them out. I used both a C Clamp bearing press with a 36mm socket as well as this home made threaded bearing puller where you use an impact wrench. I had so much pressure on it that it actually broke the threaded rod.

So what are the tricks you guys used to get them out? Please tell me installing the new bearings are easier than taking the old ones out.haha

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[IvanCRF]

I found my old post from last year on my install.

I hope it helps:

Today's update:

I just got back from getting my Ford Racing Knuckle and BMR LCA bearings pressed in. The small shop I went to here in El Paso only had a 6 ton press so I was very skeptical that we could even do it because I read a post on here that a 12 ton even struggled.

We put the Ford Racing bearings in the freezer for a while because they are slightly larger than the OEM rubber ones. The old LCA bearings were very hard to get out because we didn't have a socket the same diameter so a small jigsaw, and lots of hammering got them out.

The 6 ton press did not struggle much, which really surprised me. It took 1.5 hrs from start to end for the whole job.

I spent $50 and helped along the way so I got to learn something too.

Hasta la vista, wheelhop!

 

[TNcoupe]

Pull the spindle and use a press. It took all 12 tons of my press to get the drivers side bushing out. The passenger side could've been done under the car with the ball joint remover.

 

[Grimace427]

Pull the spindle and use a press. It took all 12 tons of my press to get the drivers side bushing out. The passenger side could've been done under the car with the ball joint remover.

I had the same experience, driver's side was almost impossible to get out even with a shop press but the passenger side came out with the standard bushing press.

 

[Ryan P]

Are these a worth upgrade? Do they increase the chance of clunks once you put some miles on them?

 

[Grimace427]

Are these a worth upgrade? Do they increase the chance of clunks once you put some miles on them?

IIRC the toe link bearings come standard on PP cars. They are a very substantial and quality piece so I think the risk is low that they will effect NVH too much.

 

[TNcoupe]

IIRC the toe link bearings come standard on PP cars. They are a very substantial and quality piece so I think the risk is low that they will effect NVH too much.

They come standard on the inner mount not the outer. I havent noticed any NVH since my install.

 

[jbailer]

They come standard on the inner mount not the outer. I havent noticed any NVH since my install.

This! I noticed when i was swapping mine it was the same bearing as the inner. Putting this on the outter too just eliminated some of that sloppy rubber making the rear end just a little more connected. Seeing it on the inner also made me feel better about putting it in there.

 

[Ryan P]

This! I noticed when i was swapping mine it was the same bearing as the inner. Putting this on the outter too just eliminated some of that sloppy rubber making the rear end just a little more connected. Seeing it on the inner also made me feel better about putting it in there.

Good to know. I have a Performance Pack car, so if it's good enough to be a factory part, it's good enough for me. I had already ordered a pair when I posted the question, but just thought I'd get an opinion regardless.

 

[thornclaw]

i just did this job, it actually went very well. ill describe how i did it for people looking to do it.
rent the powerbuilt ball jojnt press kit from advanced auto parts. you need to apply a lot of force so buying a cheap one off amazon is probably not a good idea.
use a sunex 1 and 3/8 inch short, not deep, impact socket available at link below.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-244-2-Inch-8-Inch-Impact/dp/B002XMYHOI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2FVS8RJMQIHWX&dchild=1&keywords=sunex+1+3/8+socket&qid=1594670220&sprefix=sunex+1+3/8,aps,166&sr=8-2
the 1 and 1/4 one on the instructions is too small. probably fp used a snap on/mac socket that had a thicker wall than the commonly used ones.
spray some liquid wrench on the old bushing where it contacts the knuckle and let it sit for 30 minutes
once you start turning the ball joint press on the bearing, you will build up force until you hear a 'snap'
initially you will think something broke, but actually it was the old bushing breaking free
after that it moves a bit easier
once old bushing is out, clean the seat where the bearing was seated with some brake cleaner really well
take the new bearing and notice once side is chamfered. with your finger wipe a thin layer of liquid wrench on the chamfered edge
manually place this into the rear face of the knuckle bearing opening. you will push it in from the back to front of car
make sure the chamfered edge is the side you're inserting into the opening.
tap it with a hammer to get it to stick into the opening some. otherwise there is no way to assemble the ball joint press with all those parts and only two hands
you will drop the ball joint press >100 times
once the new bearing is 1/2 way in, wipe a little red loctite on the bearing surface that's still sticking out and push it the rest of the way in.
some people have described not being able to get the old bearing out even with a shop press. it may be that some cars are assembled with red loctite at the factory and some are not?
also i noticed the rear edge of the bearing had a thin rim of corroded metal where it contacted the knuckle. i suspect it would be near impossible to push that through the knuckle. this wasnt present on the part of the bearing that is in the front position. i believe this is because the front part of the knuckle opening is chamfered and thereby may protect the contact point from corrosion. all the more reason to push it out from front to back.
i think this job will probably go very well or not at all. if u cant get the old bearing out, your option is to buy the ford performance knuckle kit with the bearing already installed.
i noticed no change in nvh but also no difference in the way the car feels riding around town.
it is likely this will only make a difference during hard driving
regards and good luck

 

[CoolRod]

Having an extra set of hands and access to a lift make this job a lot easier. I've done it twice now and while it's a bit of a pain, it can be done. My cousin and I used a ball joint press and a 3 foot long piece of pipe to get the leverage necessary to remove and install the bearings. It's a good work out for sure!

As for benefits? It does help take some slop out of the rear end and adds a little sharpness, which this rear end needs.

 

[jmeiers]

I just did this a few weeks ago by using a ball joint press (rented from Advance Auto) and did it on the car using my Kobalt brushless impact wrench. I also removed the control arms and used the same thing to remove my rear lower control arm bushings, which I would argue is much more a pain in the ass to remove than the knuckle bushings.

 

[moffetts]

RLCAs are much more difficult. Part of the problem is the awkward shape of the arms.

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