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I've always liked the Centric brand rotors. They come coated and stay looking nice for years. You can get them at Rock Auto. Also the Hawk performance ceramic pads are usually a good bet. Minimal dust and good initial bite.

You will never truly get it all the old coolant out flushing it this way. But in the end, it's better than nothing. The only true way to completely flush it is to take it to a mechanic who has one of those machines that will flush out your cooling system. Something like this...

That is the exact procedure I just performed on my GT. Except I flushed it about 4 times using distilled water then refilled with 50/50 anti-freeze/water. Super easy just don't remove the drain plug all the way otherwise you will end up with a huge mess of coolant. The owners manual says to...

Long shot...but are these still available?

This is what ultimately ended up working for me.

I used a kit a similar kit that I rented from the parts store. What ended up working for me was loosening the brake line banjo bolt. I guess that released the "pressure" inside the caliper. Never had that problem before so I will have to remember that next time.

Took the rear calipers off to paint them and the right rear caliper piston won't compress far enough to reinstall. I am using the caliper tool I rented from O'Reilly's. I've used these tools before with good success but this piston only turns maybe a half turn before it stops. It just needs to...

Is this hub/knuckle similar to the hub/knuckle that comes with Magnaride equipped cars?

Can I get the discount code as well?

Same. I've gotten out of 3 tickets in the last few years by just being polite and courteous, and of course promptly providing all of the requested documentation.

I"ve never understood why in today's digital age police ask you for the registration paperwork. Once they run your tag, and if you produce a valid license that matches the info on the tag (name/address/make/model, etc.), why must you also produce a piece of paper that states the same thing? I...

Would you sell the calipers and pads separately?

https://www.steeda.com/2015-2020-mustang-hood-trunk-struts?gclid=CjwKCAjwh4ObBhAzEiwAHzZYU-CPQH1felU2Q78-o8WCpv3fSJBVxDQ8fX3VxgttaUuemhkDIWCgxhoChRoQAvD_BwE Just installed these on my GT and they work great.

I haven't personally opened an active muffler but what you described is also my understanding of how it works. Essentially two mufflers in one.

The best piece of advice I can offer is to use a ball joint (or similar) press to remove the large front strut-to-knuckle bolts. I have in the past beat the snot out of these with a BFH but the last time I removed the struts I rented a ball joint press and it was easy peasy. Plus it kept me from...

Update. I replaced the bearing in the BMR camber plate with the new one they sent. Note that this bearing has to be pressed in and out. I also replaced the lower strut seat with a new piece from Ford (this is the large rubber piece). I closely examined everything once I got the strut...

Update: contacted BMR and they are sending me a replacement bearing for the camber plate. With any luck, I will have it by this weekend and get it swapped out.

Not while driving at speed, but at speeds less than 10 mph in a parking lot or driveway.

I used the 21mm Steeda socket but the 10mm wrench kept slipping off the strut shaft before I could get the strut nut properly torqued. Anybody else have this problem? It's almost as if the wrench needs to be 9.5mm instead of 10.

It only makes noise at low speeds (less than 10 mph) and when turning sharply into either a driveway or parking spot. The spring is binding somehow. I've loosened up the camber plate and top strut nut and re-torqued everything. I've also sprayed some lithium grease all around the camber plate...