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Kilmat sound deadening project

SandoStang

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Here’s the steps I took:
Buy quality sound deadener that has three layers, sticky, aluminum, and butyl rubber. I used Soundskins and Sound Shield, they’re the same design.
Buy a good roller, it’ll help you set the glue on the backing.
Buy a good pair of shop scissors.
Order some clear transfer tape, you can get it in one foot wide by 30 foot rolls. This can be laid out on your doors and then trace the outline on it with a sharpie. Cut out the shape and transfer to the sound deadener and cut that out. You’ll have perfect fitment.
And lastly, remove all the panels before you begin. It’ll save you time if you tackle the entire trunk at once vs section by section. It’s not a quick process so plan for at least a full weekend of 10 hour days to do the entire interior.
Thanks! I ended up finding some really good reading material on the subject.


Sound Deadener Products - Reference Information & Guide
Sound Deadening Material Buyers Guide
Sound Deadening Material Testing Results
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Evolvd

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SandoStang

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Just keep in mind they are selling a product. A three layer sound treatment will do just fine for anyone NOT trying to win IASCA trophies.
Yes, they are selling a product. But everything they have seems to be backed up with a very impressive amount of data. More than anything else I've seen on the subject.
 

Evolvd

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Yes, they are selling a product. But everything they have seems to be backed up with a very impressive amount of data. More than anything else I've seen on the subject.
It’s also the law of diminishing returns. Doing 25% coverage makes a significant improvement over nothing. Add another 25% coverage and the gains are much less obvious. Resonix makes good decoupler pieces but they’re not worth the expense if you’re not competing.
 

SandoStang

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It’s also the law of diminishing returns. Doing 25% coverage makes a significant improvement over nothing. Add another 25% coverage and the gains are much less obvious. Resonix makes good decoupler pieces but they’re not worth the expense if you’re not competing.
Yes, they touch on this. Based on what their articles show, this 25% thing isn't as straight forward as people make it out to be. I think this was covered in the product reference guide.
As far as competing, I'm not sure what that means. I just want a quiet car, and I want to do it right the first time.
 

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Evolvd

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Yes, they touch on this. Based on what their articles show, this 25% thing isn't as straight forward as people make it out to be. I think this was covered in the product reference guide.
It actually is that simple, again they’re selling a product. Check unbiased car audio YouTube pages…I’ve yet to see one who doesn’t share this philosophy of diminished returns.
 

SandoStang

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It actually is that simple, again they’re selling a product. Check unbiased car audio YouTube pages…I’ve yet to see one who doesn’t share this philosophy of diminished returns.
I absolutely see what you are saying. But like I said, I have never seen this much in depth and thoughtfully laid out material on any subject, let alone sound deadening. Maybe I'm not as quick to trust some random guys on youtube as you are. Also, I added more info to my last comment that I think you missed. Curious about what you mean with competing.
 

Evolvd

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I absolutely see what you are saying. But like I said, I have never seen this much in depth and thoughtfully laid out material on any subject, let alone sound deadening. Maybe I'm not as quick to trust some random guys on youtube as you are. Also, I added more info to my last comment that I think you missed. Curious about what you mean with competing.
Random guys? lol ok. I wouldn’t count the engineers at JL Audio, Mark from CAF, and others with hundreds of thousands of followers as “random”.
But hey, it’s your money…and companies like Resonix and Dynamat spend hundreds of thousands on their own “research” to add to their bottom line in sales.

good luck!
 

Mustang951

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So far VERY happy with the results covering 100% coverage of spare tire well and about 80% of rear speaker shelf, rear seats, rear seat side panels, and trunk lid. I only got to half the rear wheel arches (next to rear seat) before I ran out of Kilmat. Another 2 boxes arrived and I plan to do front door panels and the left and ride sides of the trunk (where I will be able to reach the rest of the rear wheel arch) and under the center console. I don’t plan on taking the front seats out or to do the roof

I didn’t want to invest in a decibel meter just to test but my unscientific conclusion is it is well worth the effort if you want to get rid of the little rattles and sounds coming from the rear, as well as sharpening the stock radio. The best way I could describe it is it seems to get rid of many of the unwanted road noises but you still hear the things you expect to hear (radio, exhaust, engine). The only sounds that seems to be bothering me now are coming from the doors. Things are also muted down overall, especially and obviously from the back. I can hear some rattles on the rear speaker shelf only when I blast the radio at almost full volume at levels I never tune to. Also very little road feedback noises except for some of the harder/bigger road bumps (I’m lowered on FRP Springs/shocks)

Quieter? Yes slightly but manage your expectations-don’t expect that you’re suddenly in a Mercedes Sedan-although I believe you can get there with another layer of foam or sound blocking vinyl. Les NVH? Def. Yes.

I am going to endorse this project provided you’re willing to put in some elbow grease and patience. It’s not hard (I have zero mechanical skills) just a bit time consuming. The cost/benefit ratio is out of this world having spent less than $150.
Op, how is the project holding up? I did diff bushings on my s550 and I got gear whine. I am going to be using siless 200min 3in1. Any tips for doing the trunk and under the seats? I am going to start with those areas then possibly the doors last once I decide to replace the speakers.
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