Join me in fixing the center speaker issue

[GTP]

Okay just a quick follow up. First I have to say this mod has completely changed my opinion of the stereo. I was going to spend a good amount of coin in the Spring to improve this damned thing. Now with this change & a couple minor adjustments including fading more to the front speakers it sounds really darned good!

Your welcome. :-)

Sponsored

 

[Qcman17]

Your welcome. :-)

Thank you sir!!!

 

[GTP]

Imagine the sound if I went after rear shelf woofers.

That's the place to spend money IMO.

 

[Smokey613]

Imagine the sound if I went after rear shelf woofers.

That's the place to spend money IMO.

Rear shelf? We don’t need no stinkin’ rear shelf !!

 

[GTP]

Maybe I could convince you.
Disconnecting the center and fading out the rear speakers has made the stock system "listenable".

But the subwoofer has a "one note" sound (60Hz I'd bet which may be cabin resonance). And overall the system is not reproducing upper bass / low midrange. That is where the power and emotion of music resides. Play Tom Petty "You wreck me" in your home and car to compare.

The sub is reproducing just one tone because the box volume is so small that the woofer can't move acoustically and then the cross point is too low (including the LPF effect of the rear shelf carpet).

Rear shelf subs with a wider bandwidth to work with the current situation is the first best place to spend a little money.

 

[Smokey613]

Maybe I could convince you.
Disconnecting the center and fading out the rear speakers has made the stock system "listenable".

But the subwoofer has a "one note" sound (60Hz I'd bet which may be cabin resonance). And overall the system is not reproducing upper bass / low midrange. That is where the power and emotion of music resides. Play Tom Petty "You wreck me" in your home and car to compare.

The sub is reproducing just one tone because the box volume is so small that the woofer can't move acoustically and then the cross point is too low (including the LPF effect of the rear shelf carpet).

Rear shelf subs with a wider bandwidth to work with the current situation is the first best place to spend a little money.

Since us ‘vert owners do not have a rear shelf, what mod is recommended if I want to clean up this upper bass / low midrange issue? BTW, I have the Shaker system with sub in trunk.

 

[PKs]

Ok, I am looking for some help from anyone with a 2018 that has done this mod. On my 12 speaker Shaker there is nothing under or around the kickpanel that looks anything like the pictures here. I assume that Ford did not relocate the parts in question to another location in the Aus. GT as plenty of other things are identical to the US cars. I am thinking that the 2018 is different to the 2015 - 2017 models.

 

[PKs]

Thanks Bill. @GTP's picture is certainly not a pre 18MY due to the body colour but I still can't see that same wiring. Maybe the export models are mounted differently. When my body feels up to a bit more contorting I will have another look around down there.

 

[WW2]

Got off - saw the tiny clips around the shaft that I had to squeeze

Looks like the 17 Shelby AMP is different - photo attached

I have a 18 EB Premium w 9 speaker system....this photo matches my setup, no green wire in center plug...does anyone know which of these wires is the center speaker ?? Badly want to disconnect it...not pulling apart dash, those things always end in disaster for me...no luck finding diagram so far

 

[Cueball]

I thought it was decided the solid green wire in the brown plug.

 

[WW2]

I thought it was decided the solid green wire in the brown plug.

This is the only pic Ive seen depicting this. Theres a bunch out there with the green wire clipped in the center plug. I just wanted to be sure. I guess solid green is somewhat of a standard color for center dash speaker regardless of amp/plug configuration ???.... Im gonna try clipping this one in the brown plug...if this is wrong, please someone let me know.....Thanks

 

[Deleted member 35786]

This is the only pic Ive seen depicting this. Theres a bunch out there with the green wire clipped in the center plug. I just wanted to be sure. I guess solid green is somewhat of a standard color for center dash speaker regardless of amp/plug configuration ???.... Im gonna try clipping this one in the brown plug...if this is wrong, please someone let me know.....Thanks

I have actually unplugged the brown plug to see if I could just pull the green wire pin. Nope.. that thing is tiny. Anyone attempted this vs cutting? Have no desire to pull apart my dash to access the center speaker, something will surely break with my luck.

 

[WW2]

I have actually unplugged the brown plug to see if I could just pull the green wire pin. Nope.. that thing is tiny. Anyone attempted this vs cutting? Have no desire to pull about my dash to access the center speaker, something will surely break with my luck.

Yup,

I dont mind cutting and capping the wire. It can always be spliced back together as long as there is slack. I was just looking for some confirmation that this pic is correct before I dug into it. Covering the center speaker with a small pillow significantly improved the sound stage. It removed the "honkeyness" from the system almost entirely. Im like you and dont want to pull apart the dash.

 

[Cobra Jet]

I have actually unplugged the brown plug to see if I could just pull the green wire pin. Nope.. that thing is tiny. Anyone attempted this vs cutting? Have no desire to pull about my dash to access the center speaker, something will surely break with my luck.

Those type of connectors - here’s info on how to remove pins (used to do this way back in the day for repinning the main PCM harnesses for 5.0 A9L swaps). I don’t have pics, so I hope the instructions help.


In order to remove the pins, unplug the connector then:
1) Approach from the female side of the connector so you can see the socket opening.

2) Find the wire that you want to remove the pin from that socket.

3) Using a very sharp auger, needle or ice pic, you need to probe into the socket and release the very small clip that is holding the pin.

4) Simultaneously, as you release the retaining clip, just pull on the wire from the back side and it will slide out of the connector.

5) Use either electrical tape or electrical shrink tubing to seal the exposed pin.

This image I just found from www.americanautowire.com is exactly how to do it:

Sponsored