Join me in fixing the center speaker issue

[Boomboom]

This is the wire I cut on my 19 GT, 9 speaker system. It seems to be the correct one as the clarity of my system is much improved and I can actually hear the "stereo" effect from music. Going to cap it today. Just sharing because there is debate on which wire it is on different year cars.

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[WW2]

Yup, these plugs look identical to mine ....18 ecoboost premium w/9 speaker system.. I find it odd that they used solid green for center speaker, goes against all the standard speaker wire colors, still not sure...

 

[PKs]

I found my amp under the carpet at the passenger's (Aust. car) foot area. It is behind a metal screen. I initially unplugged the brown connector to get to the green wire and had to drop the entire unit in order to get the connector back on. I added a switch (thanks to Bill @bjstang) to the kick panel in case I ever want to have center speaker again.

Excuse the mess of extra dash cam wiring, the installer was slack for not tidying that up.

 

[hobbie1]

Where did you tap (line level out from OEM) to the line level input of the aftermarket amp in the above link?

Sorry for the late response..... I just used the rear speaker lines that were connected to factory shelf speakers I replaced. Took those 2 outputs to the new amp and from the amp to the new subs.

 

[GTP]

Sorry for the late response..... I just used the rear speaker lines that were connected to factory shelf speakers I replaced. Took those 2 outputs to the new amp and from the amp to the new subs.

If I were to add sub + amp in the trunk, I would also re-purpose the rear shelf speaker wires to become line level signal lines. However, I am 95% confident that the rear shelf speakers are high-passed to prevent over-excursion and rattling. Therefore while the lines can be re-purposed so as not to have to run new ones, they will not deliver bass to the new subwoofer.

Instead, disconnect these speaker cables from the footwell amp, and the tap them onto the front door speaker wires. The main door speakers are likely not high-passed.

CAUTION - Note that this method sends high level signals to the sub amp and will overdrive it. It is best to choose a sub amp that accepts high-level inputs, because inside the amp, the signal is attenuated by 20dB or more.

 

[hobbie1]

If I were to add sub + amp in the trunk, I would also re-purpose the rear shelf speaker wires to become line level signal lines. However, I am 95% confident that the rear shelf speakers are high-passed to prevent over-excursion and rattling. Therefore while the lines can be re-purposed so as not to have to run new ones, they will not deliver bass to the new subwoofer.

Instead, disconnect these speaker cables from the footwell amp, and the tap them onto the front door speaker wires. The main door speakers are likely not high-passed.

CAUTION - Note that this method sends high level signals to the sub amp and will overdrive it. It is best to choose a sub amp that accepts high-level inputs, because inside the amp, the signal is attenuated by 20dB or more.

This is the AMP I went with. It supports high level inputs. I've got tons of tight bass.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...roducts/mx500-1-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98407

This is the setup I installed.

https://www.auto-fanatic.com/product/shelby-gt350-audio-upgrade/

I also disconnected the front center channel speaker which helped the soundstage.

Sounds great.

Only other thing - if I could find replacement speakers for the front 6 without having to install amps etc . Just swap the speakers.

Was looking at these but I'm guessing it would be a no go - not enough power.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...3-car-audio-speakers-c5-speaker-systems-99125

 

[Flimflamman]

I want to thank the OP and those that have contributed to this thread. As mentioned, the 9 speaker system isn't that great, but after clipping the green wire it makes it so much more livable. It will be an easy fix if I want to re-connect them.

 

[FreePenguin]

by clipping the center speaker, does that mean more juice goes to other speakers? or nah. doesn't work that way.

 

[GTP]

Nah.

 

[hobbie1]

This is the AMP I went with. It supports high level inputs. I've got tons of tight bass.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...roducts/mx500-1-car-audio-mx-amplifiers-98407

This is the setup I installed.

https://www.auto-fanatic.com/product/shelby-gt350-audio-upgrade/

I also disconnected the front center channel speaker which helped the soundstage.

Sounds great.

Only other thing - if I could find replacement speakers for the front 6 without having to install amps etc . Just swap the speakers.

Was looking at these but I'm guessing it would be a no go - not enough power.

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...3-car-audio-speakers-c5-speaker-systems-99125

Update

I've installed these Morel's - they sound very good.

https://www.morelhifi.com/product/maximo-ultra/
Decided to add the crossovers next. Shop where I bought the speakers is going to do that for me. Maybe a small AMP with DSP next. The speakers did make a nice improvement.

 

[StangTime]

Update

I've installed these Morel's - they sound very good.

https://www.morelhifi.com/product/maximo-ultra/
Decided to add the crossovers next. Shop where I bought the speakers is going to do that for me. Maybe a small AMP with DSP next. The speakers did make a nice improvement.

Did you do 3 way or 2 way components?

 

[hobbie1]

Did you do 3 way or 2 way components?

Did the 3 way. The shop added CAP's today to the bass speakers. That really brought them out. Sounds really great - this brought out the bass, very clean. Next we plan to add a DSP setup with an AMP. For now the stereo sounds dramatically better with all of th mods so far.

 

[Deleted member 35786]

Those type of connectors - here’s info on how to remove pins (used to do this way back in the day for repinning the main PCM harnesses for 5.0 A9L swaps). I don’t have pics, so I hope the instructions help.


In order to remove the pins, unplug the connector then:
1) Approach from the female side of the connector so you can see the socket opening.

2) Find the wire that you want to remove the pin from that socket.

3) Using a very sharp auger, needle or ice pic, you need to probe into the socket and release the very small clip that is holding the pin.

4) Simultaneously, as you release the retaining clip, just pull on the wire from the back side and it will slide out of the connector.

5) Use either electrical tape or electrical shrink tubing to seal the exposed pin.

This image I just found from www.americanautowire.com is exactly how to do it:

I tried that. Removed the white cover on the brown plug. Used tiny needle on both sides while trying to pull wire. No luck, those things are in there. Anyone done this? Don’t want to cut wire or tear apart dash.

 

[GTP]

I have worked with various connectors and pins. Anything small is always hard to remove without the special tool. Not mention the extra challenge of the hard to reach area.

I understand wanting to keep the car as original as possible everywhere. But...

My advice to everyone is just take a hand towel, fold it up to the size of the center grille, put it in place, and weigh it down with a book. Fade most of the sound towards the front. Then see if you like the change in sound without the center channel. If so, then just go ahead and cut the green wire halfway between the connector and the harness tape.

 

[AnotherSteve]

A big thanks to GTP!

I followed the advice in the post #134 above. After only having my Bullitt for 1 week, I was disappointed with the B&O sound system. I tested as described and decided to cut the green wire today. Big difference!!!!!

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