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Join me in fixing the center speaker issue

FreePenguin

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A big thanks to GTP!

I followed the advice in the post #134 above. After only having my Bullitt for 1 week, I was disappointed with the B&O sound system. I tested as described and decided to cut the green wire today. Big difference!!!!!
It was a big difference, really glad I clipped mine too (shaker) regardless, its well worth it. I tel everyone about it and people comment like im stupid for removing it.
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Jobodizo

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Ran across this thread while stuck in a Zoom meeting. Just went out and clipped mine and put shrink wrap on both ends. Went this route instead of pulling the dash because I was afraid of damaging my boost gauge setup. Huge difference. Not having that tinny middle speaker let me readjust my equalizer without sacrificing the upper mids that fall under "treble" in the adjustment. So much better.
 

hobbie1

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Did the 3 way. The shop added CAP's today to the bass speakers. That really brought them out. Sounds really great - this brought out the bass, very clean. Next we plan to add a DSP setup with an AMP. For now the stereo sounds dramatically better with all of the mods so far.
Next up

Keeping the sub setup including the JL Audio MX 500 I installed from Auto Fanatic.

Adding the following for the front setup.:

Ford plug and play harness -
DSP setup -
JL Audio AMP for the front 6 Morel speakers - https://www.jlaudio.com/products/xd600-6v2-car-audio-xdv2-amplifiers-98605

Shop is going not install right after Memorial Day.
 
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shogun32

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this is basically the same material thick rubber mouse pads are made of,
Yup, bog-standard neoprene but is heavier/denser than your typical 'thick' mousepad or wet suit. I bet Amazon is wondering why all of a sudden there's a rush on 6 or 8" drum pads...
 

Elp_jc

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After only having my Bullitt for 1 week, I was disappointed with the B&O sound system. I tested as described and decided to cut the green wire today. Big difference!!!!!
I was going to ask if this mod was also necessary on the B&O, and without doing any other changes (different speakers, etc), but you just answered those 2 questions :D. But to be absolutely sure B&Os have the same amp, connector, and green wire, you cut the same wire on the photo below (copied from earlier on this thread), correct? And if yes, then what the hell did the $900 extra for the B&O pays for? Geez.

Finally, I could have done this when installing the GT350 gauge pod, but no way I'm going to remove that f***ing trim piece again; took me hours to fix that carnage. Plus I like MUCH better having a switch, to have both options, so that's what I'll do too. Hope I don't have to remove that trim piece to drill the hole for the switch, but we'll see :). Thanks man.

Bullitt ctr spk 1.jpg
 
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GTthree50

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I was going to ask if this mod was also necessary on the B&O, and without doing any other changes (different speakers, etc), but you just answered those 2 questions :D. But to be absolutely sure B&Os have the same amp, connector, and green wire, you cut the same wire on the photo below (copied from earlier on this thread), correct? And if yes, then what the hell did the $900 extra for the B&O pays for? Geez.

Finally, I could have done this when installing the GT350 gauge pod, but no way I'm going to remove that f***ing trim piece again; took me hours to fix that carnage. Plus I like MUCH better having a switch, to have both options, so that's what I'll do too. Hope I don't have to remove that trim piece to drill the hole for the switch, but we'll see :). Thanks man.

Bullitt ctr spk 1.jpg
Having a switch is nice. Depending on where you choose to place it and what switch you use offers many possibilities. In my case the switch unused did not require any hole to be drilled. It fit into the panel directly under the steering column and slip fit into the opening under there. Can’t be seen and being a small rocker switch is not prone to snag on anything.
 

Elp_jc

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Having a switch is nice. Depending on where you choose to place it and what switch you use offers many possibilities. In my case the switch unused did not require any hole to be drilled. It fit into the panel directly under the steering column and slip fit into the opening under there. Can’t be seen and being a small rocker switch is not prone to snag on anything.
Hey, can you please post a picture of it? And explain how you made the connections? I was planning on putting a switch like the one pictured below (copied from another forum member here), drilled on the upper right corner of that picture, so the panel doesn't have to come out. And use crimp connectors as well. But I'm open to suggestions :D. Thank you.

Bullitt ctr spk 2.jpg
 

el-guapin

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My 19 Bullitt with B&O did not have the same plug configuration at the driver side kick panel

476876-b59372a6f33bb7b3e7ed2da5ab0f264e.jpg



Decided to disconnect at the speaker. Since I have already taken the dash trim a few times before, once to install GT350 gauges, I felt more comfortable doing that than cutting wires anyways.
Took the dash trim off. Disconnected the plug for the gauges. And right next to it is the plug for the speaker. Did not even need to take top grill off.

476877-7db8a7810d45fd5d151d1a83d2567842.jpg




I simply unplugged the speaker connector and tied it to the harness next to it with a wire tie.

476878-3f885df51753a257c1a04c5790e1fb68.jpg


Put the dash trim back together and was all done within ten minutes! Much better sound!. No longer feel like there was a loud horn in front of me!
 
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StangTime

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Interesting. The Bullitt's have a completely different amplifier than the GT's. I wonder what those differences are other than physical.
 

Elp_jc

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I think the wires should be the same, but they're in different locations. I also noticed my green wire was on the middle connector, not the rear one (or vice versa). Fortunately for me, I like the surround mode better, and the center speaker is not overpowering on that mode, so will leave it alone. I didn't want to take the dash apart again, so my only choice was to cut that green wire, and install a toggle switch, but won't do it anymore.
 

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non pp owners, you have the either cut the green wire or remove the speaker grille. We have a center AC vent which seems block access to the wire for the center speaker.

edit: yes, obviously pulling out the wire of from the connector is an alternative to cutting.
 
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FreePenguin

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you dont have to cut the green wire, just pull the clip from amplifier, and the actual white clip where all the wires are, you can make it so the wires can be removed, I ended up pulling the green wires pin out, to use it somewhere else. then snap it back together, you can leave green pin outside the clip hanging or something. google molex connector separation or whatever, takes 2 seconds. then slides back together and makes all the wires stuck again
 

Elp_jc

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That fix sounds interesting. Any way you (or somebody else) take pictures of how exactly to do that? :D. I decided not to mess with mine, since fortunately, it doesn't bother me, especially in surround mode, which is what I use.
 

700hp5.0

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With that speaker, I will measure its impedance (for the inductor solution), and DCR (for the resistor solution).

What do you guys think? Will you help me help you?
GTP, thanks for all of the information. I took it upon myself to measure the speaker in dash, here is it's impedance curve.

I've also done it's response with REW if anyone is interested.
 

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20ducks

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I realise the 8 Ohm option but what about which brand/model replacement for the center channel? 1st and 2nd choice please?
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