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IS this cup 2 tire corded ?

torque124

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Happy New Year all!

Just seeing some lines under the rubber, am I right saying that these are the cords; and this tire is no longer trackable ?

This was my front left.... the other one looks better (right one).
If that was the case, can I still just buy a pair of fronts, and run with the rears as they are for a few sessions ? (last pic are the rears).

Many thanks

20210105_155536.jpg


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Davesvt2000

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Yup those are done, throw the fronts away
 

MikeR397

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you need to rotate front left and right after 2 track days. Front left wears much faster. Those are not actually corded yet, but probably will next track day and ruin part of your day so I would replace fronts.

your rears are fine. As an FYI, I get 7 or 8 full track days before rears heat cycle out and I slide around too much. My fronts chord after 4 days unless using 102y fronts which can last 8 days as well with a rotate.
 

16Kobra

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@Tomster Please show them what a corded tire is like. I cant find my picture.....
 

16Kobra

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_nc_ohc=EUF8H5Bmu_wAX9urgrf&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.jpg


Now thats a tire thats DONE!!!

@Tomster , nevermind found it. :cwl:
 

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16Kobra

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Here is a true corded tire

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Haas

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How about mine?

kidding. Definitely waited too long and once I noticed this wear car was parked till it went to get new shoes on.

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torque124

torque124

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you need to rotate front left and right after 2 track days. Front left wears much faster. Those are not actually corded yet, but probably will next track day and ruin part of your day so I would replace fronts.

your rears are fine. As an FYI, I get 7 or 8 full track days before rears heat cycle out and I slide around too much. My fronts chord after 4 days unless using 102y fronts which can last 8 days as well with a rotate.
Thanks! I did rotate them from track day to track day, but this guy took most of the heat on Thompson Motorsports park, very heavy on front left, a lot of off heavy right hand turning..

These are actually after about 6200 miles all up, and about 5 track days, so not too bad ? Original tires that came with car in 2016, I have other street wheels and car has close to 7k miles now...

Cheers
 

MikeR397

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Thanks! I did rotate them from track day to track day, but this guy took most of the heat on Thompson Motorsports park, very heavy on front left, a lot of off heavy right hand turning..

These are actually after about 6200 miles all up, and about 5 track days, so not too bad ? Original tires that came with car in 2016, I have other street wheels and car has close to 7k miles now...

Cheers
Ya, 5 track days and those miles is all you can hope for out of front cup 2’s. With the Porsche spec 102y your tread will get you to at least 8 track days (albeit a little more $ but saves on extra mounting costs) on the fronts, and rears will last 8 days as well. But keep in mind a 5 session day average puts that at 40 heat cycles and you won’t be setting your lap records in day 6-8, but ime it’s fine and perfectly safe. Past 8 track days i would say the looseness is a safety issue and also won’t be fun (I tried for a day 9 once and it was not great).
 

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pilotgore

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Happy New Year all!

Just seeing some lines under the rubber, am I right saying that these are the cords; and this tire is no longer trackable ?

This was my front left.... the other one looks better (right one).
If that was the case, can I still just buy a pair of fronts, and run with the rears as they are for a few sessions ? (last pic are the rears).

Many thanks

20210105_155536.jpg


20210105_155530.jpg


20210105_155555.jpg
It’s a little hard to tell due to all the rubber chunks on the tire from the hot tire pickup. As @honeybadger advised me once, and he was absolutely correct, once the inside starts to chunk like that, starting to reveal the cord, you likely have 3 to 5 (30) minute sessions left in the tire.

On my last track day this season, my fronts looked pretty close to your fronts. Attached is what they looked like after about 2hr10min on track. Notice cords on the inside and outside of the tire. (I was a guest of a member at the track so I didn’t care if my tires were done after an hour or three hours. I was more interested in finishing off the tires.). If you’re paying for the track time, swap the fronts, but keep the better of the two in case you need a replacement due to a puncture.

I definitely noticed a degradation of traction after the first 80 min on track, but finishing the day I was only 1.5 seconds off my lap record at my home track (so not too terrible.) I’m pretty aggressive, and I get roughly 3-4 days out of fronts and rears on stock 350 cup 2’s (8-10hrs track time plus 300 miles on the street.)

Hope this helps.

77D988C1-7B87-4D26-95E5-D091FCEA7818.jpeg
 
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torque124

torque124

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It’s a little hard to tell due to all the rubber chunks on the tire from the hot tire pickup. As @honeybadger advised me once, and he was absolutely correct, once the inside starts to chunk like that, starting to reveal the cord, you likely have 3 to 5 (30) minute sessions left in the tire.

On my last track day this season, my fronts looked pretty close to your fronts. Attached is what they looked like after about 2hr10min on track. Notice cords on the inside and outside of the tire. (I was a guest of a member at the track so I didn’t care if my tires were done after an hour or three hours. I was more interested in finishing off the tires.). If you’re paying for the track time, swap the fronts, but keep the better of the two in case you need a replacement due to a puncture.

I definitely noticed a degradation of traction after the first 80 min on track, but finishing the day I was only 1.5 seconds off my lap record at my home track (so not too terrible.) I’m pretty aggressive, and I get roughly 3-4 days out of fronts and rears on stock 350 cup 2’s (8-10hrs track time plus 300 miles on the street.)

Hope this helps.

77D988C1-7B87-4D26-95E5-D091FCEA7818.jpeg
Thanks for the info.
I mostly track with SCCA on track night of America, and they do only 3 x 20-25 min sessions starting at 4 PM to 7 PM... so I think I'll do one of those, should be fine, and then swap both fronts out.
Is it also in your experience also that rears last longer? I am thinking of doing a couple more track days with the rears, they don't look that bad yet..
 

pilotgore

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Thanks for the info.
I mostly track with SCCA on track night of America, and they do only 3 x 20-25 min sessions starting at 4 PM to 7 PM... so I think I'll do one of those, should be fine, and then swap both fronts out.
Is it also in your experience also that rears last longer? I am thinking of doing a couple more track days with the rears, they don't look that bad yet..
I agree regarding the fronts, I think you’ll be more than fine. Just make sure the better of the two tires is on the side that wears faster (different for every track.). Also, be vigilant about checking the chunking/cording after each session. What pressure settings are you using?

Most people report the rears lasting longer than the fronts, but it all depends on your driving style and ability. If you’re pretty good at inducing oversteer in turns, allowing the rear end to come around, the rears will wear at a faster rate (closer to the front wear.) I’ve also heard from other 350 owners that by the time the fronts are sufficiently corded, the rears are close to, or are heat cycled out which leads to loss of traction.

I bought my 350 last January and I noticed as my abilities controlling the car improved last season, my tire wear (front to back) became much more even. Although I should point out the fronts still take the brunt of the abuse and wear slightly faster and show more cord than the rears.

If I recall properly, Billy Johnson mentioned in a post that if you’re driving with the proper technique (ie inducing oversteer with throttle control in the turns,) the fronts and rears will wear at roughly the same rate.

The stock tires on the 350R wear a little differently from what @meterman and others have told me. If I remember correctly, Jim gets twice as much track time from the rears as he does the fronts. Then again, he’s an old man and doesn’t know how to drive ;) Absolutely kidding.... he’s a pretty aggressive driver and tracks his car more than most. He might know what he’s talking about :)
 

pilotgore

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I just realized you have an R, so you may have a different experience than I’ve had regarding rear tire wear. Im not sure if Billy’s comment applied to the bespoke 350 compound and the 350R compound, or just the 350 compound.
 
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torque124

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I agree regarding the fronts, I think you’ll be more than fine. Just make sure the better of the two tires is on the side that wears faster (different for every track.). Also, be vigilant about checking the chunking/cording after each session. What pressure settings are you using?

Most people report the rears lasting longer than the fronts, but it all depends on your driving style and ability. If you’re pretty good at inducing oversteer in turns, allowing the rear end to come around, the rears will wear at a faster rate (closer to the front wear.) I’ve also heard from other 350 owners that by the time the fronts are sufficiently corded, the rears are close to, or are heat cycled out which leads to loss of traction.

I bought my 350 last January and I noticed as my abilities controlling the car improved last season, my tire wear (front to back) became much more even. Although I should point out the fronts still take the brunt of the abuse and wear slightly faster and show more cord than the rears.

If I recall properly, Billy Johnson mentioned in a post that if you’re driving with the proper technique (ie inducing oversteer with throttle control in the turns,) the fronts and rears will wear at roughly the same rate.

The stock tires on the 350R wear a little differently from what @meterman and others have told me. If I remember correctly, Jim gets twice as much track time from the rears as he does the fronts. Then again, he’s an old man and doesn’t know how to drive ;) Absolutely kidding.... he’s a pretty aggressive driver and tracks his car more than most. He might know what he’s talking about :)
I start at 28 PSI on all and then I just check on the dash what max pressure I get during laps; so I try to keep it under or around 35 when hot... Or that's what one of the instructors I ran with told me; they "feel" ok there... I am not sure if mine are heat cycled out or not, but I do feel a greasy rear end sometimes when trying to throttle oversteer like you said..
I don't drive very aggressively, mostly for fun; I try to learn the tracks and get the perfect lines, and create as many *straights* as possible (an instructor told me that one too... :) )
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