Sport Cup 2 Tire life

[Tomster]

Alignment was the way it left the factory to get a base line. I really want to leave this car in 100% original form and don't want to add camber plates if don't have to, but I am pretty sure I won't be able to get enough negative camber without them. I guess I can always take them off and go back stock down the road if need be. My tire budget will surely thank me if I do.

I hear you and understand. This is one of Fords biggest mistakes with this car. They build a track car, give you the recommended settings, but guess what? You can't set the camber to what you need. I installed my own plates. If you are not a mechanic, you may want to consider subbing that out to a qualified shop.

With all that said, cup 2's are expensive tires. If you are going to track on any kind of basis, it would be worth installing camber plates. I installed Steeda plates but regret not installing Vorshlag plates.

As for keeping the car 100% original, you can always reinstall the old plates back to factory if you ever decided to sell the car. I have all my original parts.

If you don't mind getting about half the life out of your cup 2's, then disregard everything I said. By the way, I read cup 2's are on sale at tire rack right now......something like 1300 a set (and that's a steal).

Sponsored

 

[jakermc]

So what are your thoughts on the life left in this tire? Also, would you artifically heat cycle this tire with the service tire rack offers?

I think the other comments here about tire life are a good representation of what to expect from them. The track surface, alignment, and driver ability all play a major role in life expectancy. I've attempted to gather data on track life expectancy across a number of brands and have posted that data here: http://www.4cornertireshop.com/race-track-tires.aspx Just click the 'read reviews' tab of the tire you are interested in.

In my experience, the heat cycling that TR does has zero effect on life. When I was a beginner and before I was in the business I paid for this but my data said it didn't matter. Your mileage may vary, but it had no impact for me.

January is the absolute BEST time to buy these tires, the prices will be lower now than any time of the year. Will follow up all inquiries via pm ....

 

[Tomster]

Besides being a experienced racer I am also a Michelin dealer. I'd be happy to set the members of this board up with tires if they are interested, I can typically save you a bit of money versus TireRack.

I missed your post when I skimmed through. That was a very generous offer. Although I'm set for tires now, I just wanted to say thanks.

 

[straightliner1]

Barber KILLS LF tires. Add more camber on the LF and maybe leave the RF alone. Tire temps will help you dial in your alignment and Barber will direct you toward quite a camber stagger.

Thunderhill (Northern CA) is the same way. You need -2* camber otherwise you're getting 2 days out of the fronts, specifically the left. Learned this the hard way running 19" Hoosiers on my Boss 302 with stock alignment. Wound up cording the LF outside corner 3/4 into my second day. Called it a day and drove home on the set. Wound up scrapping the fronts. Rears had another 2 days left on them.

 

[Stuntman]

Thunderhill (Northern CA) is the same way. You need -2* camber otherwise you're getting 2 days out of the fronts, specifically the left. Learned this the hard way running 19" Hoosiers on my Boss 302 with stock alignment. Wound up cording the LF outside corner 3/4 into my second day. Called it a day and drove home on the set. Wound up scrapping the fronts. Rears had another 2 days left on them.

My RF always went first at TH.

If you grind off the knurling on the front strut to knuckle bolts, you can adjust and get the factory recommended -1.75* front camber without plates.

 

[straightliner1]

My RF always went first at TH.

If you grind off the knurling on the front strut to knuckle bolts, you can adjust and get the factory recommended -1.75* front camber without plates.

Thinking back... You're right, it was the RH front, not LH. I sold the Boss a few years back and I'll be better prepared before I head out there next time (CC plates).

 

[Stuntman]

Thinking back... You're right, it was the RH front, not LH. I sold the Boss a few years back and I'll be better prepared before I head out there next time (CC plates).

The GT350 has much wider tires than a Boss, and thus does not need as much camber.

 

[cweller]

Anyone consider switching over to the Toyo R888R's? It might possibly be a better HDPE tire, and it might even last longer. Looking at the specs, the R888R 305's are about as wide as the Cup 2 315's. A square 305 setup would probably work well on any GT350 or GT350R.

 

[CSL]

I've considered it and have lots of experience with the R888. The Cup2 is so much better and now similarly priced that I'm sticking with them in lieu of trying out the new R888r. The Michelins are simply a better engineered tire and also offer a pretty significant weight savings. The Toyo's are certainly a viable option though.

 

[chedder]

Interesting. I have been using this tire with starting pressure of 34 cold up here in the northwest without any significant wear issues. Negative 2 all around. Nimble.

 

[Tomster]

Negative 2 all around. Nimble.

Bingo!

 

[chedder]

My two cents! I've run the Cup II tires for three years now. As an instructor I'm on the track 12 to 15 days a year driving 5 different tracks here in the NW. I go thru 2 sets a season. 34 psi cold, stock alignment. Rotate every other day on track. 1.28g turns documented regular for the car(see other posts). Great tires and fabulous in the wet. Try it you'll like it.

 

[chedder]

Forgot to say! These tires require a heat cycle. Full on HOT tire to cold overnight. Then ready to rock. Find a road you can get them hot on and let them set.

Sponsored