Corded Tires - Feedback Requested

[UnhandledException]

Just realized today my fronts are showing cords inside (rears are not). Fronts still have 6/32" threads and rears are 4/32" after 18,000 miles and unfortunately because of the cording I had to order new tires.

I understand the stock alignment is the reason for this, the front is probably too aggressive. The fact that I am running R wheels which stretched the front tires also did not help (this time I got 305/35/19 square).

The question is since I am not tracking the car and this is daily driver, should I get an alignment done and go with a more normal setup or leave alignment as is? since now my fronts are also 305s, maybe I dont need that much camber or do I?

Also not sure if doing 305s all around was a good idea but I think its economical since I am not tracking the car, it will make it easier to swap/keep a spare tire if something goes wrong.

I also didnt go with 4S because the diameter is just too small so went with OEM PSS.

Sponsored

 

[1 old racer]

If you have camber plates, (maybe even adjustable camber bolts), they can make adjustments to give the tires better wear over better performance. The shop does need to understand how to do this. The toe adjustments has just as much to do with tire wear as the camber does. The shop does need to understand this relationship. Sense my GT pp1 is used as my daily driver I had this type of alignment to mine and I really am pleased with the tire wear so far. I do have to tell you that I do have a lot of experience with this and every car I own and have owned over the past 30+ years has had a custom alignments. I have a ford performance track setup on my GT and after the custom alignment took the car to Cal speedway and ran a few laps. I noticed it under steered more then I liked, so I changed the ford performance rear sway bar with a stock pp1 GT unit and that balanced her out the way I like it, (A little over steer).

 

[SVTinAR]

Not sure it will make a lot of difference but I reset the toe on mine to very slight toe in using a toe tram gage in my garage since it strictly sees street duty. Toe out is known to create scrubbing of the inner shoulder although the factory setting isn't exactly extreme. Probably a combination of the toe out and negative camber, both.

 

[UnhandledException]

The shop is Midas guys, not the greatest:(

 

[1 old racer]

The shop is Midas guys, not the greatest:(

For custom work DO NOT go to a chain shop for the alignment.

 

[Sammy]

I would be very happy with 18,000 miles on a set of tiers. It wouldn't be worth the loss of handling to have it aligned to get that last bit out of the tires unless you really want it. Just my opinion.

 

[wildcatgoal]

1/16 toe in is your friend. Camber is not the primary cause.

 

[xt6wagon]

90% of it is toe.

10% of it is that the GT350 can't push the front tires in normal use in cornering, but its still all too easy to load them hard in braking. So you get very little cornering wear, or atleast I hope you do when on the public roads.

Oh and supersports have a softer compound at normal temps on the inside, with the outer blocks needing more heat to get grippy.

 

[Eritas]

I would be very happy with 18,000 miles on a set of tiers. It wouldn't be worth the loss of handling to have it aligned to get that last bit out of the tires unless you really want it. Just my opinion.

Agreed. That's great mileage, leave it alone and accept it. 305s are so wide that the OEM caster and slight camber causes the inside to wear like that. You can try setting front toe to 0 but that'll affect tramlining a little.

 

[UnhandledException]

I went back to my notes, its actually not 18,000 miles but 21,000 miles. Furthermore, interestingly, rears dont have this problem and evenly wore and I could use them as spare with 4/32-5/32" thread left.

Anyways, I just had the shop put the 305s all around this weekend and my god what a difference in handling. Car is literally glued to the ground, does not feel loose at all. Front also feels much more planted to my untrained driving. I'm very happy overall. I highly recommend the square setup as it's more economical (allows you to swap tires and keep extra spares).

 

[JT1]

My fronts are corded on the inside as well at about 15,000 miles and 3 two day track events, WG once, NJMP Lightning twice. I thought it was that I was running around with C&C plates on the track alignment.

 

[lunatect]

To continue an old thread, the fronts on my 2016 corded at about 14k. Got new Michelins and had an alignment done. The negative camber on the fronts was about 1.65. The fronts now have about .65 negative camber and the front toe out has been taken out. Had to have camber bolts installed to do this. I'm a retired club racer and will not be tracking this car. The car still handles great, but the change is noticeable.

 

[JAJ]

...I understand the stock alignment is the reason for this, the front is probably too aggressive. The fact that I am running R wheels which stretched the front tires also did not help (this time I got 305/35/19 square).

The question is since I am not tracking the car and this is daily driver, should I get an alignment done and go with a more normal setup or leave alignment as is? ...

You have a 2017, which does not come with adjustable front camber, and the factory setting, the one you can't adjust, is pretty mild at around 1.1 or 1.2 degrees negative.

As others have said, the reason you've got issues with inner tread wear is that your front toe-in is out of adjustment. Get an alignment and have it set at somewhere between 0 and 0.1 degrees total toe-in and your tires will last better.

Sponsored