Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

[SH!FT]

Pulled the front bumper, undercover and DS wheel well guard last night.

14 clips to remove a well guard..
Didn't need to remove the wheel. Just jacked the frontend to make room for tools.

I always shove tape in the joint before disconnecting the bumper.

I'll be clipping the nip and running wiring through the firewall port above the dead pedal. Adding a circuit to fuse #54 for aux power. ***Edit*** I used fuse #53.

First issue to address:
I'm going the mount the chiller behind the crash bar as to not block air flow to the condenser. I think I'm going to relocate the wiring harness to the top of the crash bar and find a place to hide the stupid shutter motor by the PS headlight. There will be ~5.5" of space between the crash bar and condenser face once the LTR is removed. I'd like to leave room between the chiller and condenser to go stage 2 if necessary.

I wish I just did the chiller during the the SC install. Most of the Roush stuff likely needs to move out of the way to reach the HVAC liquid line and both coolant systems partially drained.

Need to locate the torque spec for the condenser to liquid line connector.

More to come!!

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[bankyf]

Pulled the front bumper, undercover and DS wheel well guard last night.

14 clips to remove a well guard..
Didn't need to remove the wheel. Just jacked the frontend to make room for tools.

I always shove tape in the joint before disconnecting the bumper.

I'll be clipping the nip and running wiring through the firewall port above the dead pedal. Adding a circuit to fuse #54 for aux power.

First issue to address:
I'm going the mount the chiller behind the crash bar as to not block air flow to the condenser. I think I'm going to relocate the wiring harness to the top of the crash bar and find a place to hide the stupid shutter motor by the PS headlight. There will be ~5.5" of space between the crash bar and condenser face once the LTR is removed. I'd like to leave room between the chiller and condenser to go stage 2 if necessary.

I wish I just did the chiller during the the SC install. Most of the Roush stuff likely needs to move out of the way to reach the HVAC liquid line and both coolant systems partially drained.

Need to locate the torque spec for the condenser to liquid line connector.

More to come!!

I've thought about buying one of those tubular front bumpers and welding a plate on it to mount the core to open up the flow to the condenser even more.

As for the condenser nut
Torque : 80 lb.in (9 Nm)

If you have a custom tune, you can have your tuner disable the shutter and get rid of the motor all together. PP cars did not come with shutters at all.

 

[SH!FT]

I've thought about buying one of those tubular front bumpers and welding a plate on it to mount the core to open up the flow to the condenser even more.

As for the condenser nut
Torque : 80 lb.in (9 Nm)

If you have a custom tune, you can have your tuner disable the shutter and get rid of the motor all together. PP cars did not come with shutters at all.

A tube like this? That'd be a nice mounting point with a plate and free up some space. Think there'd be a significant flow improvement, or would the factory bumper still be in the way? The height and thickness of the factory crash bar is 4.75" x 2" if anyone is curious.

Thanks so much for the torque spec! I need to just give in and buy a legit repair manual.
I hate this free version:
https://cardiagn.com/ford-mustang-2015-2018-service-repair-manual-wiring-diagrams/
I was able to confirm the spec now that I know what torque value to search for.

I have PTSD from Subaru... I want the dealer to still be able to perform diagnostics on the car. The goal is no custom PCM flash and no splicing factory wiring. I'll also be relocating the LTR water temp sensor to the chiller so it doesn't throw a code.

I'll be unmounting that wiring harness from the crash bar, so it should be easy to add slack the the shutter motor harness to really hide it good this time.

Thanks for help!

 

[baevid]

What do you get if you upgrade to the Interchiller Stage 2? I was skimming around on their product page but didn't see the details.

You gain a lot of room when you get a tubular crash bar like BMR or Steeda's.

 

[SH!FT]

What do you get if you upgrade to the Interchiller Stage 2? I was skimming around on their product page but didn't see the details.

You gain a lot of room when you get a tubular crash bar like BMR or Steeda's.

I'd be making assumptions. Best to email Kirk at [email protected] for the details about stage 2.

Looks like I'll be about 3/4 inch too narrow for stage2 between the chiller and factory condenser face with my current mounting plan. Thanks! A tubular crash bar may be a solution for the upgrade then.

 

[SH!FT]

Didn't have much time, but made some progress this weekend.

Side note: Heard something walk by my feet this morning. I rolled out from under the car to find this guy in the driveway again.. We're not on good terms

I stared off the install with some electrical in the driveway.
My garage is a bit tight. I needed doors fully open and the ability to remove front wheels. Plus, It's nice to test new circuits before pulling more stuff apart.


Cables through firewall:
I pulled two 18/3 cables through the DS firewall over the dead pedal. One cable is for the drag valve switch. The other is for adding a water temp sensor on the chilled side.

***Edit*** I ended up needing one 18/3 cable, one 14/2, and one flexible 14awg.

Found it easiest to:

1. Tape ends staggered when pulling multiple cables.
2. Pop out the grommet and snake a zip tie.
3. Soap the cable(s) and grommet inlet before pulling it home.
4. Soap the grommet before popping back in.

I noticed that other harness was resting on a sharp edge. I added a piece a of edge trim to protect it.

Picking up ACC power:
It was recommended that I add a fuse and pickup power for the relay and valve switch from the cig lighter (fuse #53), so that's what I'm doing. As previously stated, I'll be doing everything possible not to splice the factory wiring.

Fuse #53 and #54 are controlled by relay #69 in the fuse box. Both fuses are the slow blow Mcase style which made adding an ACC circuit to #53 slightly annoying.

Here's my add a circuit harness. Converted Mcase to standard blade fuses.

1. Converted a spare Mcase fuse into a plug and soldered in two 24" 12 awg.
2. Added zip tie and heat shrink to prevent strain on plug's solder joints.
3. Attached a fuse holder (#53a) to the end of the 24"s.
4. Spliced a 12" red to the 24" red.
5. Attached another fuse holder (#53b).
6. Attached a 6" white and a female quick connector.
7. Wrapped with wire harness tape.

Drag valve relay:
This 4 pin relay is crap. Wire colors are wrong and the latch cracked. These quick connectors are decent.

My wiring is a bit overkill. I'm trying to make things accessible for troubleshooting. Removing the strut brace, coil covers, and front bumper gets old fast.


Crash bar wire harness relocation:
The harness reaches the top of the factory crash bar with ease. I'll secure using the same clips.

I tried to add slack to the shutter motor cable... but the wires feed from different directions. I tucked a majority of the shutter cable into the harness before wrapping it back up. The shutter motor should clear the chiller now.

On to the fun part next!

 

[smokescreens]

Looking good thus far. Quick question though. Why tap into the fusebox under the hood rather than run a independent harness off the fuse box studs?

Also after seeing a bear in my driveway right behind me i would have made sure i got something from in the house if he decided he was hungry,lol.

 

[SH!FT]

The studs are constant power. The coil/switch would kill the battery.

The drag valve needs to remain energized to provide cabin A/C. I would never remember to manually shut it off every time.

 

[smokescreens]

The studs are constant power. The coil/switch would kill the battery.

The drag valve needs to remain energized to provide cabin A/C. I would never remember to manually shut it off every time.

Could have sworn one of those is switched power. If i recall my whipple water pump is running off those.

 

[SH!FT]

Yeah the Roush intercooler pump electrical harness connects there too, but has multiple connectors that run about the engine bay. I'm sure one of those plugs provides a control signal.

I'd be hesitant to tap directly into the 2-wire IC pump cable without contacting Roush/Whipple support first.

Roush SC install instructions: Ctrl+F to search "1318- 8W501" if you're curious.

 

[smokescreens]

Yeah the Roush intercooler pump electrical harness connects there too, but has multiple connectors that run about the engine bay. I'm sure one of those plugs provides a control signal.

I'd be hesitate to tap directly into the 2-wire IC pump cable without contacted Roush/Whipple support first.

Roush SC install instructions: Ctrl+F to search "1318- 8W501" if you're curious.

Oh for sure. I wouldnt tap into that harness. Its just been a while. I thought one of the 3 studs was a switched power.

You using this type of item for the cigarette lighter?

 

[SH!FT]

I’d have to see a schematic on that to confirm.

The harness I made is essentially this:

Terminal A receives power based on Relay #69 when installed in #53 or #54.

The my fuse holder on the left is “fuse1” from above. My right holder is “fuse2”. My open yellow quick connector will feed ACC power to the solenoid valve and switch which is protected by “fuse2”.

I’ll need to fuse appropriately to ensure I do not overload relay #69 and whatever else feeds it.

 

[smokescreens]

Oh ok. Nevermind Your tapping the power from the cigarette lighter from the fuse box under the hood. For some reason i thought you needed to power something inside the cabin from the cigarette plug.

 

[SH!FT]

You do have to power the switch which is mounted in the cabin. With FI’s instructions this will make complete sense I promise lol.

It’s not something to deter you from buying the chiller kit. The wiring is really easy.

 

[smokescreens]

Not worried about the wire work at all. Just making sure im following you. The a/c lines is my biggest hesitation but even that does not sound to be to bad. I think if the overtime holds out i will buy one and make it a winter project. One thing michigan has is plenty on winter...

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