SH!FT
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #46
I got a bunch done yesterday.
Removing the heat exchanger:
The LTR heat exchanger came out easy. I was super careful so spilled very little coolant. I hope to get an accurate idea of the IC coolant capacity with the chiller is installed.
Roush install instructions for reference.
Started by draining the LTR temp sensor port.
I setup catch pans across the length of the spanner bar. As expected, some coolant ran down the LTR then followed down the spanner. I opened the degas cap to increase the flow once the catch pans were set.
Looking back: I should've removed the spanner bar before draining the temp sensor port. All coolant would have likely flowed right into the bucket.
Res. tank level shown after sensor port was empty.
Next was the LTR outlet. A bit more coolant emptied, but from the hose only.
Last was the LTR inlet which I was dreading. Luckily none came out.
Probably not necessary, but I removed the spanner bracket before unbolting the LTR. Had a magnet handy for clips that fall into the frame.
A bit more coolant emptied from the LTR when tipped it over.
Dropping the Roush reservoir tank/pump:
Carefully fished the LTR inlet hose back behind the fan shroud and hooked end on the fan harness.
Hose end must remain higher than the tank or coolant will spill.
Next disassembled the tank/pump mounting bracket. The tank dropped slightly allowing access on both sides of the tank inlet connection. Both hands are needed. It's a PITA to disconnect.
Tank/pump down.
Removed the 2 plastic close-out panels.
Access to HVAC liquid line:
Side note: The OD of the engine coolant petcock nozzle is 0.435". I'll be adding an extension so it can be drained without dropping the Roush components.
Mocking up the chiller mounting bracket:
Started with a 6" x 20" steel plate 0.130" thick. All measurements are based on square to the condenser face. I plan to use M8 hardware.
I'll post more details once I confirm the mounting plate works.
- Removed the heat exchanger
- Dropped the Roush reservoir tank/pump
- Mocked up the chiller mounting bracket
Removing the heat exchanger:
The LTR heat exchanger came out easy. I was super careful so spilled very little coolant. I hope to get an accurate idea of the IC coolant capacity with the chiller is installed.
Roush install instructions for reference.
Started by draining the LTR temp sensor port.
I setup catch pans across the length of the spanner bar. As expected, some coolant ran down the LTR then followed down the spanner. I opened the degas cap to increase the flow once the catch pans were set.
Looking back: I should've removed the spanner bar before draining the temp sensor port. All coolant would have likely flowed right into the bucket.
Res. tank level shown after sensor port was empty.
Next was the LTR outlet. A bit more coolant emptied, but from the hose only.
Last was the LTR inlet which I was dreading. Luckily none came out.
Probably not necessary, but I removed the spanner bracket before unbolting the LTR. Had a magnet handy for clips that fall into the frame.
A bit more coolant emptied from the LTR when tipped it over.
Dropping the Roush reservoir tank/pump:
Carefully fished the LTR inlet hose back behind the fan shroud and hooked end on the fan harness.
Hose end must remain higher than the tank or coolant will spill.
Next disassembled the tank/pump mounting bracket. The tank dropped slightly allowing access on both sides of the tank inlet connection. Both hands are needed. It's a PITA to disconnect.
Tank/pump down.
Removed the 2 plastic close-out panels.
Access to HVAC liquid line:
Side note: The OD of the engine coolant petcock nozzle is 0.435". I'll be adding an extension so it can be drained without dropping the Roush components.
Mocking up the chiller mounting bracket:
Started with a 6" x 20" steel plate 0.130" thick. All measurements are based on square to the condenser face. I plan to use M8 hardware.
I'll post more details once I confirm the mounting plate works.
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