Installed a Tremec Magnum XL in my S550

[Evilwill]

http://transmission.moderndriveline...t-2015-up-5-0L-Mustang-T56-Magnum-XL-p980.htm

QA1 is making these for MDL only, it's not in the QA1 catalog and they won't even make one using their custom order form (it doesn't have the right yoke option). The cost is the same though, so there's no reason not to just order from MDL.

Cool thanks for info

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[Alex.Envy]

Total cost is coming in right around $7k for the Tremec trans kit (TUKT12021), McLeod RST clutch and billet steel flywheel, QA1 driveshaft, Bowler harness, MGW shifter, and misc hardware. The only thing I'm reusing is the OE slave cylinder and TO bearing.

I'd look at JPC, I got the trans, RST, lightened steel flywheel, DSS single aluminum DS for around $5400 with commercial shipping. Add $250 for bowler wiring and $190 for MGW. The kit was only annoying to deal with for me because I was the first 2018 to buy it and guinea pigged out the issues.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

To the guys have completed the swap, what shift boot did you use?

 

[db252]

The stock one.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

The stock one.

My car is at the shop right now so I can’t see it but I was told the shift boot wasn’t fitting. Did you make any changes to the oem one? Besides removing the collar

I also have the mgw for it, so I’m not sure how it compares to the stock t56 shifter

 

[db252]

I to have the MGW as you can see from my pics in the first post. The collar is the only thing removed, the MGW grommet is inserted inside where the collar used to be, it slides over the shifter and rubber washers supplied by MGW are used to lift the height of the shift boot to be against the shifter knob. I used two of the rubber washers.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

So every post I've looked at for the rev hanging issue says the rev's will stay still stay. Example 1: shifting from 2-3, push in the clutch and revs stay 2500 rpm.
I have that issue but I've also experienced where when I engage the clutch the RPMs will rise. Example 2: Push clutch pedal, engine revs from 2500-3000 rpm on its own. Seems to happen only at 35+ MPH.

Did you only have one of those issues or both? Trying to figure out if it's something installed wrong, or if it's just the tune issue. I also need to do a crank position relearn, but my little trip around the block felt REALLY good compared to the MT-82.

Yeah, those two thing's really got us. You learn a lot being the guinea pig with the new car haha! The issue with the harness is that the software wasn't update for the new iphone software. Used a neighbors phone and it was fine

Did you ever fix your rev hanging issue?

I'm having the same issue after completing the swap. I asked for a retune but Brandon at Lund told me to use a speedo box to recal. Funnily enough, my speedometer has actually been reading correctly, but my cruise control isn't working. I'm not sure what the guys at the shop did in terms of wiring but the guy I purchased the trans from said he had a harness (maybe the bowler one, idk) and he didn't have any issues other than cruise control not working.

Also to OP:
You mentioned something about the weight of the Mantic deterring you from picking up new discs?
I have an RXT for the T56 but it's giving me issues so I already have discs from Mantic (what I had in my MT-82) on the way but obviously your thought concerned me.

 

[Alex.Envy]

Did you ever fix your rev hanging issue?

I'm having the same issue after completing the swap. I asked for a retune but Brandon at Lund told me to use a speedo box to recal. Funnily enough, my speedometer has actually been reading correctly, but my cruise control isn't working. I'm not sure what the guys at the shop did in terms of wiring but the guy I purchased the trans from said he had a harness (maybe the bowler one, idk) and he didn't have any issues other than cruise control not working..

Yes, I had brandon fix the issue for me. I had to send him a video of what it looked like when I shifted to communicate it better.
I bought the all in one harness from bowler and didn't have any issues configuring it(other than it wasn't updates for the newest iOS, had to use my friends android) and my cruise control works. Just did a 500 mile trip with it yesterday on the whole time

 

[db252]

Did you ever fix your rev hanging issue?

I'm having the same issue after completing the swap. I asked for a retune but Brandon at Lund told me to use a speedo box to recal. Funnily enough, my speedometer has actually been reading correctly, but my cruise control isn't working. I'm not sure what the guys at the shop did in terms of wiring but the guy I purchased the trans from said he had a harness (maybe the bowler one, idk) and he didn't have any issues other than cruise control not working.

Also to OP:
You mentioned something about the weight of the Mantic deterring you from picking up new discs?
I have an RXT for the T56 but it's giving me issues so I already have discs from Mantic (what I had in my MT-82) on the way but obviously your thought concerned me.

Yes, there is no reason Lund can't remove the rev intro and rev hang from the tune. The only harness I have experience with is the bowler harness. It is important that the pulse count be changed from the MT82 to the Tremec pulse so that it communicates with the PCM correctly which allows the cruise control to work with Lund entering the programming to match up. It also has the ability to have everything correct with tire size inputs and final drive ratio. The speedometer reads off the front hub so if you haven't changed tire size, your speedo should read accurately like you say. All of my Lund tunes that I run have no rev intro or hang and all my gears work with cruise control.

In regards to the clutch scenario, the Mantic while an incredible clutch, was going be too light for my setup. The lightened flywheel and 9.25 discs would have created issues for me while starting off from first gear. I needed my momentum of weight and larger discs to work with my 2.66 first gear or I would have much more issue getting the car rolling. If you opted for the 2.97 first gear you might be alright but I'm not positive. The mantic with the MT82 is perfect due to the 3.66 first gear. Other factors are also affected by other ratios like rear gear ratio (I'm 3:73) and rear tire size (I'm 27.2") plus hp/tq and I run, depending on fuel and pulley I'm on, 750-900hp and 600-700tq. My setup works for me and a lot of planning went into it. I daily the car quite often (thus the need for good start off in first gear) and I road course the car as well. There is some give and take in those areas because I want the car versatile.

If you do decide to run the Mantic, I would be very curious as to your outcome of drivability. I've installed three of those clutches for other people and they all run perfect granted with the MT82.

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Yes, there is no reason Lund can't remove the rev intro and rev hang from the tune. The only harness I have experience with is the bowler harness. It is important that the pulse count be changed from the MT82 to the Tremec pulse so that it communicates with the PCM correctly which allows the cruise control to work with Lund entering the programming to match up. It also has the ability to have everything correct with tire size inputs and final drive ratio. The speedometer reads off the front hub so if you haven't changed tire size, your speedo should read accurately like you say. All of my Lund tunes that I run have no rev intro or hang and all my gears work with cruise control.

In regards to the clutch scenario, the Mantic while an incredible clutch, was going be too light for my setup. The lightened flywheel and 9.25 discs would have created issues for me while starting off from first gear. I needed my momentum of weight and larger discs to work with my 2.66 first gear or I would have much more issue getting the car rolling. If you opted for the 2.97 first gear you might be alright but I'm not positive. The mantic with the MT82 is perfect due to the 3.66 first gear. Other factors are also affected by other ratios like rear gear ratio (I'm 3:73) and rear tire size (I'm 27.2") plus hp/tq and I run, depending on fuel and pulley I'm on, 750-900hp and 600-700tq. My setup works for me and a lot of planning went into it. I daily the car quite often (thus the need for good start off in first gear) and I road course the car as well. There is some give and take in those areas because I want the car versatile.

If you do decide to run the Mantic, I would be very curious as to your outcome of drivability. I've installed three of those clutches for other people and they all run perfect granted with the MT82.

Ok I’ll update with what Brandon says about the tune.

I’ve already purchased everything for the mantic so you’re kind of scaring me a bit, but I think I’ll go for it anyways.

I do have 4.10s though so maybe it might help offset.

 

[db252]

Yes please keep us updated on all findings.

Not trying to scare you at all and I'm really hoping it works out like you prefer. It's gonna work no matter what but it will just come down to the smoothness and process of engagement.

The 4:10's will definitely be better. 3:73 is the minimum for sure when going for the 2.66 first gear.

Just reading your sig looks like your good on all counts of power. I feel for your stock half shafts though.

 

[frankrizzo487]

I'd look at JPC, I got the trans, RST, lightened steel flywheel, DSS single aluminum DS for around $5400 with commercial shipping. Add $250 for bowler wiring and $190 for MGW. The kit was only annoying to deal with for me because I was the first 2018 to buy it and guinea pigged out the issues.

Hey fellas, just ordered my swap kit from JPC with the 2.97 1st, RST clutch with matching lightened steel flywheel, DSS driveshaft and everything else that comes with the kit. Based off what ive read from you guys I need to order the bowler all-in-one harness and as much as I loved the what the barton shifter did for me on the absolute shit mt-82 i'm gonna try the MGW shifter. Anything else I'll need? I'm adding a stainless steel braided clutch line while I'm down there and a new TO bearing just for GP. Has everyone experienced the rev hanging?? Pretty much 100% gonna need a tune to fix that no? Thanks in advance for all the help and I cant wait to get behind this f*cker with the new trans.

-Frank

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

Hey fellas, just ordered my swap kit from JPC with the 2.97 1st, RST clutch with matching lightened steel flywheel, DSS driveshaft and everything else that comes with the kit. Based off what ive read from you guys I need to order the bowler all-in-one harness and as much as I loved the what the barton shifter did for me on the absolute shit mt-82 i'm gonna try the MGW shifter. Anything else I'll need? I'm adding a stainless steel braided clutch line while I'm down there and a new TO bearing just for GP. Has everyone experienced the rev hanging?? Pretty much 100% gonna need a tune to fix that no? Thanks in advance for all the help and I cant wait to get behind this f*cker with the new trans.

-Frank

Depending on your diff gearing, you might consider a pumpkin swap or gear swap for something steeper like the 4.10s. If you have 3.73s, probably not worth it.

Also I just sent Brandon at Lund a video example of my rev hang (clutch in, revs stay constant for like 1-2 seconds, then drops). I'll let you know if he sends me a tune revision. I know he sent Poseidon.S550 one that resolved it for him.

 

[db252]

Sounds like you’re good to go. Flywheel bolts is the only thing off the top of my head to think of on your list but you may already have those coming to.

Rev hang will be there unless an aftermarket tuner removes it. They will also get your cruise control issues worked out.

 

[Wolverine]

Hey fellas, just ordered my swap kit from JPC with the 2.97 1st, RST clutch with matching lightened steel flywheel, DSS driveshaft and everything else that comes with the kit.

Congrats! As for the McLeod lightened flywheel, is this part of the RST clutch kit, or did you add it specifically to your order?

Some of the McLeod RST/RXT clutch kits get around requiring a new flywheel by using a small friction surface that simply bolts to an existing flywheel (basically an adapter plate). I don’t have a flywheel to start off with, and I’d like to find an RST kit that includes a flywheel made for the clutch so I don’t have to use that adapter piece.

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