Install PP Gauges on Non-PP Model - Recap

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Thestangb, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. repins1911

    repins1911 Active Member

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    Just an update to the issue I had. I removed the air vent pods and reinstalled the dash trim. Then I marked the sub dash, for lack of a better term, where the trim over lapped and cut back a quarter inch past my marks. Now the trim installs with zero resistance. I would recommend this as part of the initial install when doing the cutting portion.
     
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  2. 300mag

    300mag Well-Known Member

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    post pics when you get a chance.
     
  3. 18usc371

    18usc371 Well-Known Member

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    Just as a follow up:

    I test fitted everything without the middle vent blocked an found quite a bit of climate, in my case A/C, "leaking" out the top and bottom of the dash panel around the gauges. You could feel cold air vented up toward the windshield and down toward the radio display. The panel around the gauges was quite a bit colder than the area around the other two vents. I should have taken the some readings with my temp gun . . .

    So I cut a plastic disk from the lid of a La Banderita queso dip (hot). I'm sure mild or medium queso lids would have worked too. About 72mm diameter. That depends on deep you cut the flange on the middle vent. I cut it back to the ribs on either side at 3 and 9 o'clock. Then it taped it up:
    354326-6982a2ad0ca4989a44048c05683f8691.jpg354327-676fd1e1d1f46a983dde25af9460d79f.jpg

    After that, the leaks stopped, but it still got too warm/cold for my liking. I cut another disk out of thick Styrofoam from a to-go container from some black beans from the Cuban joint down the road, and taped that too:

    354331-ee82aad3779148e055501cc39e5e32b4.jpg354332-61d3273d28d46837915c4e883bb14bc2.jpg

    I should have just started with the Styrofoam!

    Now, no appreciable temp difference and all climate exiting the other two vents.
     
  4. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ Initially I did the same with a salsa lid, but I found that even with it inserted to the inside shoulder of the center vent, the plug wires on the back of the gauge were still contacting it and the wiring was getting pinched.

    In the end, I decide to use the cap off the top of a Rustoleum paint can that has the notches for popping it off the can. Like the one pictured below. I removed the inside plastic, and cut the lid back to about half its size, then I was able to insert the cap inverted into the vent allowing it to go deep inside the vent to block all fair flow. I also removed the center vent splitter inside the duct to allow for the cap to go deep inside and create a nice deep pocket. I then used very thick clear silicon around the edges to fully seal everything.



    AU_HPWheel_FltBlk_11oz_L.png

    Another big problem with using the Performance Pack Dash Trim over the Base Model duct work, is the Performance Pack dash trim has the outer vents located further apart than the base model to make more room for the gauges. The interior duct work of the Performance Pack is molded differently. Because of this, even though you can install the PP dash trim over the Base Model duct work, the outer vents are not lined up to the centers of the ventilation ducting. This will cause gaps around the edges of the round vents and cause a loss of air inside the dash. The little ring of foam around the vent is not enough to compensate and fully seal it when it's off center like that. The only way to truly get a proper seal, is to replace all the dashboard ventilation ducting. Or, in my case, modify the dash trim to hold a set of PP gauges to allow the outer vents to stay where they are originally located.
     
  5. 18usc371

    18usc371 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't check for pinching. I'll have to re-visit that. Thanks.

    I did notice the slight mis-alignment of the duct work to PP dash, but was hoping the foam seal would do the job. Perhaps a larger foam seal would do most of it. It's been super hot here, and the two vents are blowing nice and cold, even if I'm leaking. I just didn't want the direct blast of climate on the gauge box as previously discussed.

    Admittedly, your solution in complete, albeit more involved.
     
  6. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    The pinching wasn't "terrible" by any means, but for a long term install, enough to raise a caution flag. So, removing the splitter and creating a deeper pocket for the plug made sense. I also agree, using some thicker foam will probably do the trick.
     
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  7. Tatum337

    Tatum337 Well-Known Member

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    Why hasn't anyone just bought the air handler for the PP car? It's like $80 from Ford. It routes the A/C to two vents versus three.
     
  8. 300mag

    300mag Well-Known Member

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    Best guess it involves disassembling a good portion of the dash to remove and replace.
     
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  9. 18usc371

    18usc371 Well-Known Member

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    From post 106 in this thread:
    “In order to put the plastic piece in you would have to pull the whole dash out of the car to do. The hardest part is the two bolts in the engine compartment due to the windshield wiper stuff and plastic cowl piece that is glued on in our convertible cars.”
     
  10. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    Whoa! Just for that one piece?

    Somehow, I think it was easier to shove the cap of a spray can in there.
     
  11. KewlWinter

    KewlWinter Well-Known Member

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    Yes, exactly. A whole lot of disassembly for very little gain. I just did the install on my 2018 EB and I found that taking the 2 vents out of the dash trim, then installing the dash trim w/gauge pod, then popping the vents (driver side first) back in, made it easy. So far no problem with rattles, whistles, or other odd noises or wanting to pop out. The cutting required to provide clearance is simple and easy with a Dremel and cutoff disk. Took a whole 5 minutes, only because I was being careful. Just make sure to plug the middle hole with something that provides insulating properties. In my case I used some insulating foam that was thick enough to rest against the inside vent divider and just touch the back of the gauge pod. Just more insurance against rattles and keeps the plug in place without having to RTV or tape.
     
  12. myjaja

    myjaja Well-Known Member

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    Do all the pp gauges come with my color? If not, how can I tell which one has it before purchasing?
     
  13. Tatum337

    Tatum337 Well-Known Member

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    If your car has it, the gauges will.
     
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  14. KewlWinter

    KewlWinter Well-Known Member

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    GT Gauges Oil Pressure & Vacuum = MyColor
    EB Gauges Oil Pressure & Vacuum/Boost = MyColor
    GT350 Gauges Oil Pressure & Oil Temp = NO MyColor

    And your IPC must have MyColor capability for it to work.
     
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  15. myjaja

    myjaja Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know the part number for a black dash trim for the pp gauges for a 2018 mustang gt? I was told its FR3Z-6304338-AJ for the pp trim but pictures keep showing it having 3 ac vents also it being for 2015-2017. I found the 2018-2019 (JR3Z-6304338-NA) but it also shows 3 ac vents.

    FR3Z-6304338-AJ (2015-2017)
    https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...5PTIwMTYmdD1ndC1wcmVtaXVtJmU9NS0wbC12OC1nYXM=

    JR3Z-6304338-NA (2018-2019)
    https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...9MjAxOCZ0PWd0LXByZW1pdW0mZT01LTBsLXY4LWdhcw==
     
  16. 300mag

    300mag Well-Known Member

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    Can't help with your question but if it helps I can tell you to buy new pp trim panel from dealer is over 1k. Just keep searching forum or ebay.
     
  17. canyon ed

    canyon ed Well-Known Member

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    I have a complete dash set from a 18 gt pp1 Premium
     
  18. Tatum337

    Tatum337 Well-Known Member

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    Pictures and price
     
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