Install PP Gauges on Non-PP Model - Recap

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Thestangb, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. bluestar

    bluestar Well-Known Member

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    No tune. Plugged it in and it worked just fine!
     
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  2. bluestar

    bluestar Well-Known Member

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    Yes. As mentioned plugged it in and both gauges worked. Mine is a 2018 GT base.
     
  3. bluestar

    bluestar Well-Known Member

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    As a side note, just thought of this....

    I really like the pseudo brushed aluminum look of the PP trim. Kind of reminds me off some of the old 2ND Gen Firebirds/Trans Am's I had years ago!
     
  4. 18usc371

    18usc371 Active Member

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    It's a throwback to the 2008-2009 Bulliitt too:

    dtbc_a.jpg
     
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  5. bluestar

    bluestar Well-Known Member

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    Didn't think of that, but yes it is!
     
  6. GuntherRedox

    GuntherRedox Member

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    HP Tuners - VCM Editor
     
  7. GuntherRedox

    GuntherRedox Member

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    HP Tuners - VCM Editor.

    I own a Mustang 2017 GT V8 Europe non PP (non Performance Pack).

    I installed a double gauges on the middle of the dashpanel (Oil Pressure & Vacuum) as a PP-model. Once the wiring is completed (from OEM APIM Sync), Vaccum gauge is alive but not the Oil Pressure gauge.

    With my VCM Editor (HP Tuners), I changed a thing in my tune for the ECU to broadcast the actual oil PSI. It's NOT Possible with ODBII

    The non Performance Pack GT's use a dummy 'switch' but when you change the 'Oil Pressure Config' from 'Switch' to 'transducer' (see form General Engine), my oil pressure gauge is now alive ! fine ! between 40 to 80 PSI.
     
  8. GuntherRedox

    GuntherRedox Member

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    But now, after every engine start, the car has the 'low oil pressure' light come on. I understand well, the pressure information is now used by the gauge and the ECU dummy 'switch' receive a pressure on null.

    How can I disable this warning message ?

    A possible solution : Turned off DTC P0522 (with HP Tuners) ? (Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low Voltage)
    thanks for your advices !
     
  9. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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  10. bluestar

    bluestar Well-Known Member

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  11. 18usc371

    18usc371 Active Member

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    Done! This was so easy thanks to all your input, tips, pics, etc. Thanks!

    Started out with a Dremel, but quickly just used a sharp utility knife to cut the dash. Nice clean cuts too. I didn't even need to completely remove the radio/climate face-plate to remove the display and pop out and route the 4-pin connector for the gauges. Complete plug and play on the '19.

    Up next, 4" to 8" Sync conversion . . .
     
  12. OP
    OP
    Thestangb

    Thestangb Well-Known Member

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    Look at the first post...I got this fixed, but if u own a GT then you shouldn't make this change as it shouldn't throw any errors.
     
  13. Condor1970

    Condor1970 Well-Known Member

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    Btw, what are the normal spec'd oil pressures? ....I'm wondering if my gauge is accurate, or needs to be calibrated. I'm using QSUD 5w30.

    Cold start - 28psi

    Hot idle at 650rpm - 13psi.

    Hot highway cruising in 6th gear 1800 rpm - 28psi.

    The moment I hit roughly 2,800rpm during acceleration, it jumps to 80-100psi for high rpm operation.
     
  14. ghostang

    ghostang Member

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    Thanks for the information! It helped me locate the connector. For those that may be having trouble identifying if they have the cable, please see the pictures below:

    1. If you have the plug, you will notice two pin holes of the white connector showing through the square cut out in the plastic dash structure behind the display after removing the bezel and radio display.
    [​IMG]

    2. Push in the connector using a pen to loosen the connector from the plastic dash structure.
    [​IMG]

    3. After loosening the connector, reach behind the plastic dash structure and pull out the connector to remove it.
    [​IMG]

    4. Route the connector up through the dash next to the air vent cut out.
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. repins1911

    repins1911 Active Member

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    So I did the swap, PP gauges work as they should. The issue I have is my remaining air vent cover keep popping out. There was a post on either this thread or the original that the fitment was tight, but of course I can't find it now. Anyone else have this issue and what was the fix?
     
  16. 18usc371

    18usc371 Active Member

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    Both vents? left of gauge or right gauges only?

    Did you trim enough from the dash backing in that vent area?

    I know that sounds simple, but is also the most obvious, as it fit prior.

    I say that because I “under” cut the sub dash at first to make sure I didn’t cut too much out permanently. Just to be cautious. I had to go back a again in couple of places and shave a bit more as it was still just a tad over at first.
     
  17. repins1911

    repins1911 Active Member

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    Right side only. I thought I cut plenty but will have to take it apart again make sure. I know I had read that the vents sit slightly farther apart in the PP dash trim.
     
  18. 18usc371

    18usc371 Active Member

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    Assuming the 4-hole dash panel has the original fitting left and right vent bezels, and the right bezel wasn’t loose (or tight) in the original PP donor car, i.e no fit issues, I would guess the trimming needs to be addressed.

    You can’t really do anything about the spacing on the panel itself.
     
  19. 300mag

    300mag Well-Known Member

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    yes I have the issue where the PP panel with vents won't pop in. my fix is to remove the left from pp panel, insert panel. once pp panel(with right vent attached) is installed I can get the left vent to insert and snap into panel. just a tight squeeze but it goes in and snaps into place.
     
  20. Bnewell101

    Bnewell101 Member

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    So splicing into pins 53 and 54 I noticed there's 2 wires each that go in to the pin (small white and small blue), anyone know if you splice into both wires each or is the connection only to 1? img_20190615_092015-jpg.jpg
     
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