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80FoxCoupe

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You’re the man, Crank it is…question…but no flames lol…I know there can be some negative buzz with them. Mmr crank no good?
Callies is a 4340 unit, forged overseas and machined in usa. About $1200. Beyond that, Winberg billet for $3800, Crower billet for $3800 or Bryant billet for $4500. Pick your poison.
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Nctong01

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Width. And yes AED knuckles.

I talk a little about some of the stuff on YouTube when I did the install.

Ahah I thought maybe that was the case! I've actually already watched your video man. I think a 10.5 would be ok....I believe you're right around 12.5 inches affected width and while the 10.5 will be stretched, it won't have the same poke. Regardless I can't 100% recall backspacing we talked about so Im going to call Bogart tomorrow and see, I appreciate the heads up.

As far as the weight bar, I'm gonna definitely have to play things by ear on that end. A lot will be shifting in the car in regards to weight distribution so I'll get a baseline with where were at traction wise and start tweaking.
 
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Nctong01

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Callies is a 4340 unit, forged overseas and machined in usa. About $1200. Beyond that, Winberg billet for $3800, Crower billet for $3800 or Bryant billet for $4500. Pick your poison.
10-4.

As far as radials, I know auto's generally run a radial. I just thought this situation may be different...obviously I wasn't outside the car to see weight transfer and only making 700-750whp, but launching prior felt like I had freaking 100% anti-squat. I'm afraid I'm not going to have enough give to not blow the tires off or having to ramp things in super slow.
 

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10-4.

As far as radials, I know auto's generally run a radial. I just thought this situation may be different...obviously I wasn't outside the car to see weight transfer and only making 700-750whp, but launching prior felt like I had freaking 100% anti-squat. I'm afraid I'm not going to have enough give to not blow the tires off or having to ramp things in super slow.
The car will be quicker and faster with a radial versus a slick. Guaranteed. Do whatever you feel will be best.
 
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Nctong01

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The car will be quicker and faster with a radial versus a slick. Guaranteed. Do whatever you feel will be best.
I could be reading tone incorrectly, but I feel like you think I'm discounting your knowledge. I came here in a big part to get input and learn from those that have a lot more experience than me. That said, I like to think things through, gather knowledge, and then apply it to my particular situation...that's a big part of the "fun" to me. I understand what you're saying is what I've read 100 times, but not many mustangs trying to go fast with all the particulars of my situation. I was hoping to get some thought on that situation, not nay say.
 

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I could be reading tone incorrectly, but I feel like you think I'm discounting your knowledge. I came here in a big part to get input and learn from those that have a lot more experience than me. That said, I like to think things through, gather knowledge, and then apply it to my particular situation...that's a big part of the "fun" to me. I understand what you're saying is what I've read 100 times, but not many mustangs trying to go fast with all the particulars of my situation. I was hoping to get some thought on that situation, not nay say.
Radial is what you need for the job. Its superior over the slick in your application. Its quicker and faster on a prepped surface. Slicks on a 3800lb car trapping 175 plus will interesting to say the least.

No nay saying here. Run what you like. I typically respond with short posts because I'm lazy, not for any other reason lol. Dont read into it. I don't have any more knowledge than anyone here, so take my opinions with a grain of salt.
 
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Nctong01

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Radial is what you need for the job. Its superior over the slick in your application. Its quicker and faster on a prepped surface. Slicks on a 3800lb car trapping 175 plus will interesting to say the least.

No nay saying here. Run what you like. I typically respond with short posts because I'm lazy, not for any other reason lol. Dont read into it. I don't have any more knowledge than anyone here, so take my opinions with a grain of salt.
10-4 man, I appreciate the clarification bud. I didn't want to assume just wanted to make sure I wasn't trying to come across negative.
 
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Hard to get me worked up but a little frazzled today. 6 hours of tattoo work yesterday (attached a picture of one piece that some of you might appreciate lol) and 2 hours trying to get this final axle out of the diff without success almost had me throwing tools 😂

Regardless got a tad done. Had to fix a leak in my workshop and ended up getting the trackspec hood vents mocked up along side putting the vertical links in place.

Engine lift plate in this week and engine should be pulled by the end of the week…also waiting to hear back from Gforce to see if I can order their 9 inch without driveshaft as I’d like to go with a different setup there. If it’s a go, that’ll be ordered and then the rear end can be buttoned up besides the wait on the bogarts.

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BB250E81-5D5E-4525-B022-4B6F64A996CA.jpeg
 
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Nctong01

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Im liking the hood vents! Any pics from under hood?
Thanks man, I'm happy with how they turned out and I think they're going to go with the new look of the car well. I didn't bolt them in yet as I'm going to be re-wrapping the car and I figured it'd be more work taking them back out lol. Ill grab a pic when they're in here. I will say the dremeling took longer than I expected.
 

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Jesus loves turbos!
 

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Push the axle into the diff first, then give a sharp pull out. It should pop out. Trying to pry them out (if that's what you're doing) sometimes doesn't work.
 
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Nctong01

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Push the axle into the diff first, then give a sharp pull out. It should pop out. Trying to pry them out (if that's what you're doing) sometimes doesn't work.
Ya man, tried it. I'll give it another shot today. I ordered a larger cv joint puller to use with a slide hammer though...I rented one but it was just too small.
 
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Well...I said this would probably run $100k for a reason...this build is evolving boys.

Ordered a Callie crank, going to lock VCT and go MHS xtreme turbo cams, tapered bronze valve guides, with some billet chain guide/arms, and ID 2600's.....talked to my buddy/fab guy quite a bit last night and he doesn't think mounting the radiator more horizontally would be an issue; this way we can run everything hot side equal length and stick the turbo up front and center. Kind of like the picture attached. I think we'll have to be careful with timing on the manley I beams but I'm guessing we might reach 1700 wheel. Which also means transmission cost will go up....anyone have recommendations on a solid th400 builder?

401118R_005.jpg
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