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I removed an ac line bolt and it released all the pressure. Am I screwed?!

Ppetro08

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While installing headers I started removing a bolt holding in an ac line, like an idiot not knowing what was about to happen. Seconds later I get the shit scared out of me and white "gas" starts spewing everywhere.

I try to quickly screw the bolt back in, but by that time the pressure was a lot lower. Only a little green fluid came out.

I have a 2019 and it takes 1234yf, which I now know is expensive as f***. Idk how ac systems work but do I have to pay for everything to be "refilled" even though only a little liquid came out, or does it just need repressurized?

What are my options?
 

AceS550

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The “white” gas you saw is the refrigerant. The green fluid is the oil in the system.

The O-ring seal will need to be inspected for damage and replaced if necessary.

You will need to have your A/C system serviced by a shop with a dedicated 1234yf A/C machine.

A complete “recovery, evacuate, and recharge“ will be necessary. A/C machines are capable of measuring how much refrigerant it removes from a system but that probably won’t have any effect on how much money the shop charges you since the process is still the same.
 
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Lime1GT

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make sure you re-tightened the bolt; you don't want moisture in the system. get it in as soon as possible to have the system put on a vacuum machine to evacuate any moisture that may damage the system.
 

ice445

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I mean you're not screwed, but the system will need to be emptied and refilled at your dime, and as you've noted 1234yf is the opposite of cheap.
 

DonnieO

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You're screwed. You messed the ac system up. :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
 

Cobra Jet

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Whatever you do - do not turn on the AC and don’t use “defrost” mode which also turns on the AC - you do no wantt the compressor running dry and causing more issues....

—-

I’m curious as to what “bolt” you had removed which drained the system???
 

K4fxd

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There is a pressure switch in the lines that will prevent the compressor from turning on.

Don't scare people when you don't know how the A/C system operates.
 

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XS

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Couple things. One, there was a net pressure release, there's slim to no chance anything was able to enter the system such as debris or moisture with 40 psi leaving - but if you are worried take it to a shop and have them do a proper evac and refill. That said, if you are not worried, you can refill the system yourself with a set of AC gauges (don't use the shitty gauge refill cans have on them, get a proper set of gauges - about $90). Then refill following the guidelines from Ford (Google hi-side and low-side pressure to find the proper level). All in you may be $200 if you DIY it. But READ UP before just willy nilly going and trying to top your system off, really really study up on AC systems. But you can absolutely do it.
Second, and kind of scammy, but put the stock manifolds back on and clean around the area of release really well with degreaser. Take it to the dealer and tell them you don't know what happened. They'll put gauges on it, check for dye release, and fill it back up. Chances are you won't have to pay. Going this route is however comfortable you are with ripping a dealer off for your mistake, but that's up to you.
Lastly, own up to it and take it to a dealer. If you're honest maybe they'll give you a break, you never know. I roasted my clutch doing something idiotic (not intentional, just really tired which led to really stupid mistake). I took it into the dealer and asked them to see if I glazed the clutch because engagement didn't feel quite the same after my dumb mistake. Dealer had it for an entire day, took a look and said, nope you didn't glaze it. I was expecting an $800 bill for their labor and the guy said, nah you're good don't worry about it, mistakes happen. Come see us again!
 

K4fxd

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I haven't seen 1234YF in any parts store.

I have seen a few who have switched it to 134A with no problems.
But if you go that route it is technically illegal and you would have to assume all risk. I won't guarantee it will work.

I don't know how 1234yf got DOT approval. It is flammable.
 

tom_sprecher

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Live and learn...the expensive way.
 

Ppetro08

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Whatever you do - do not turn on the AC and don’t use “defrost” mode which also turns on the AC - you do no wantt the compressor running dry and causing more issues....

—-

I’m curious as to what “bolt” you had removed which drained the system???
I removed the bolt that's next to the front bottom header stud because I thought I needed to take it off to get more room to fit my headers.
 

NC85

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I removed the bolt that's next to the front bottom header stud because I thought I needed to take it off to get more room to fit my headers.
Just unbolt the compressor and slide it back to gain enough clearance. You don't have to remove it.

Stuff happens, but we live and learn.
 

Genxer

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Couple things. One, there was a net pressure release, there's slim to no chance anything was able to enter the system such as debris or moisture with 40 psi leaving - but if you are worried take it to a shop and have them do a proper evac and refill. That said, if you are not worried, you can refill the system yourself with a set of AC gauges (don't use the shitty gauge refill cans have on them, get a proper set of gauges - about $90). Then refill following the guidelines from Ford (Google hi-side and low-side pressure to find the proper level). All in you may be $200 if you DIY it. But READ UP before just willy nilly going and trying to top your system off, really really study up on AC systems. But you can absolutely do it.
Second, and kind of scammy, but put the stock manifolds back on and clean around the area of release really well with degreaser. Take it to the dealer and tell them you don't know what happened. They'll put gauges on it, check for dye release, and fill it back up. Chances are you won't have to pay. Going this route is however comfortable you are with ripping a dealer off for your mistake, but that's up to you.
Lastly, own up to it and take it to a dealer. If you're honest maybe they'll give you a break, you never know. I roasted my clutch doing something idiotic (not intentional, just really tired which led to really stupid mistake). I took it into the dealer and asked them to see if I glazed the clutch because engagement didn't feel quite the same after my dumb mistake. Dealer had it for an entire day, took a look and said, nope you didn't glaze it. I was expecting an $800 bill for their labor and the guy said, nah you're good don't worry about it, mistakes happen. Come see us again!
Owning up would be better. Don't have them crawling all over trying to find a non-existent leak.

Like a previous poster pointed out, it won't work if you lost a lot of refrigerant. If it does work but not cooling well, then there shouldn't be much to replace.
 

Genxer

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I haven't seen 1234YF in any parts store.

I have seen a few who have switched it to 134A with no problems.
But if you go that route it is technically illegal and you would have to assume all risk. I won't guarantee it will work.

I don't know how 1234yf got DOT approval. It is flammable.
Didn't know about it being flammable, wow. There will probably be a phase-out of R134a at some point like there was with R-12, so going long term with an older refrigerant might not be the best course.
 

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