I’d appreciate some code help please!

[MarkM]

Hi,
I have a 2017 built GT, I was out yesterday for a run with other cars, pretty hot day but I was keeping an eye on temps and saw nothing I was concerned about.
At the 1st stop, my reverse camera stopped working which may or may not be connected.
On leaving the stop the car travelled about 500yrds and cut out, I managed to pull it into a car park to stay out of the way. The Wrench sign was on the dash and it turned over but wouldn’t start. Leaving it 2 mins it started 1st time and I drove off, the car then cut out twice more in a short distance.
The faults below I had to clear to drive the thing home, still showing the wrench and not feeling heathy.

All but the PCM fault would clear, going into that one I’m left with these……

ET mode is showing these

Car is recently tuned and a cat back.

My local dealer is a horror so I feel very much on my own with this, any insight or experience really appreciated.
Thanks :(

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[MiamiGT350]

These cars are sensitive to voltage fluctuations and will throw error codes across various modules.
I had something like this occur and after days of trying to troubleshoot, all that was needed was a new battery.

Start with a battery check -- especially if it is still the original -- and verify the connections to the battery. If loose, you will get all kinds of codes. Move on to the alternator and ground connections after.

 

[MarkM]

These cars are sensitive to voltage fluctuations and will throw error codes across various modules.
I had something like this occur and after days of trying to troubleshoot, all that was needed was a new battery.

Start with a battery check -- especially if it is still the original -- and verify the connections to the battery. If loose, you will get all kinds of codes. Move on to the alternator and ground connections after.

thank you Battery is indeed the original, I’ll check it out, terminals are tight.
I’ll check the grounds and alternator

From the manual it says IES circuit, anyone know where I’d start checking plugs and wires for this if it’s not voltage releated?

 

[DonnieO]

Battery mark. That's going to be it I would bet

 

[MarkM]

Battery mark. That's going to be it I would bet

Thanks both, I think I’ll change it anyway for peace of mind, it’s a motorcraft so I think it’s original
hopefully that sorts it!

 

[MarkM]

Definitely the original battery, new one on Charge to make sure it’s 100%
Standard cranking amps are 590, this one is 640, hopefully I’ve not made a mistake knowing how fickle these things can be

 

[5doorsoffury]

What is the battery voltage during cranking, free rev and then idle?
Dont for get to do a bms reset for the new battery.

 

[MarkM]

What is the battery voltage during cranking, free rev and then idle?
Dont for get to do a bms reset for the new battery.

I didn’t test it, as it was the original I thought I’d just change it to future proof it, thanks for the BMS info!

 

[5doorsoffury]

I didn’t test it, as it was the original I thought I’d just change it to future proof it, thanks for the BMS info!

Good luck hope it is all taken care of with the battery! fwiw i believe if the vehicle experiences anything below 10.5 volts the electronics(automotive 12v land) goes nuts and stuff acts however it feels like acting with no rhyme or reason!

Cranking shouldnt dip below 10v and charging should be above 13.6v. This car charges the battery whenever it feels like thanks to the Battery Monitoring Sensor located on the battery cables connector. Any of those values are great baselines for most vehicles.

 

[MarkM]

Good luck hope it is all taken care of with the battery! fwiw i believe if the vehicle experiences anything below 10.5 volts the electronics(automotive 12v land) goes nuts and stuff acts however it feels like acting with no rhyme or reason!

Cranking shouldnt dip below 10v and charging should be above 13.6v. This car charges the battery whenever it feels like thanks to the Battery Monitoring Sensor located on the battery cables connector. Any of those values are great baselines for most vehicles.

Thank you, great info and I’ll take note of the new battery values. Fingers crossed it’s ok and I can sleep again

 

[WItoTX]

FYI, as others said, I bet its electrical related.

I have the same C18400 code in my car in engineering mode. As best I have found on other threads, that code is simply a code that makes sure certain programming is in the car, and the code itself is used for tracking the programming.

 

[MarkM]

FYI, as others said, I bet its electrical related.

I have the same C18400 code in my car in engineering mode. As best I have found on other threads, that code is simply a code that makes sure certain programming is in the car, and the code itself is used for tracking the programming.

Thanks

battery hasn’t cured it, anyone any idea what else I can check?

 

[MarkM]

Ok, some further digging points to a short circuit, anyone help me pinpoint the modules listed? I get the feeling I’m stripping my interior out lol

BCM-C and PCM
I have a feeling this is moisture releated in the BCM in the footwell

 

[WItoTX]

"Recently Tuned". As for a fresh tune, and re-import it.

That doesn't work, start checking grounds. For example, the passenger side strut tower grounds (there are two) are known to not be good connections. Sand the paint off, down to the metal. Clean and reconnect.

 

[MarkM]

"Recently Tuned". As for a fresh tune, and re-import it.

That doesn't work, start checking grounds. For example, the passenger side strut tower grounds (there are two) are known to not be good connections. Sand the paint off, down to the metal. Clean and reconnect.

thanks is it safe to flash the oem tune onto it with the wrench on the screen? I can do that easily enough, I didn’t want to just point the finger at the tune without trying some other basics

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