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Huge knock issue.

SSG 5.0

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Ishyne22

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i busted 4 & 8 ring lands on my coyote f150. caught it soon enough before it could score the walls. Honed out and going forged. My fault though ran out of fuel and went lean. :headbang:
 

Crackerjack17

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Looks about the same as mine did. You able to re-use your heads?
 

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15GaurdGT

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Yeah heads are fine. Honestly the block is fine too. Could of saved a ton of cash if i waited. Oh well.
 

Jackson1320

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Yeah heads are fine. Honestly the block is fine too. Could of saved a ton of cash if i waited. Oh well.
Interested in selling it?
put in a cylinder head cooling mod. It will keep 7/8 from getting hot. The water doesn’t flow around 7/8 very well so the water gets hotter and hotter Until boom. you’ll never know there’s an issue because the cylinder head temperature sensor is on the other cylinder head
 

Torinate

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Interested in selling it?
put in a cylinder head cooling mod. It will keep 7/8 from getting hot. The water doesn’t flow around 7/8 very well so the water gets hotter and hotter Until boom. you’ll never know there’s an issue because the cylinder head temperature sensor is on the other cylinder head
Please explain.

Got a write up on it?

I thought this was corrected on Gen 2s. I know it was an issue on Gen 1s.
 

Jackson1320

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Please explain.

Got a write up on it?

I thought this was corrected on Gen 2s. I know it was an issue on Gen 1s.
Nope not corrected. The blocks have the same basic design Flaw all of the cooling system enters and exists the engine through the front of the engine, Nothing in the back. As the coolant flows up through the block and out the heads it is coming in from the front and out from the front.
The water pump pushes coolant into the front of the block but then from there on it’s free to flow which ever way has a path of least resistance so is it easier to push all the water to the back of the block then up into the heads then back to the front and out. or is it easier for coolant to just go in the front up and right back out the front with basically nothing in it’s a way to stop it. A weak pump will make things worse. Now the coolant does Mix with the coolant in the back a little bit at a time and slowly. On a stock engine this is good enough but once you start making more power you start making more heat and With very little water getting to the back the heat cannot be removed Fast enough. When you put some foot in it the coolant around 7/8 and 3/4 will get hotter than any others. 3/4 is not as big of a problem because the cht sensor is back there. But 7/8 there’s nothing telling you or the ecu that there’s a problem. The head cooling mod gives the coolant a path out the back of the block so if the coolant is flowing out the back of the block cooler fluid can get back there.
there are two kindsof cooling mods.
1 flows water out the Back of the block and into the heater hoses so It can get a continuous circulation.
2 flows water from one head cross to the other so the temperature sensor can get a reading from both heads instead of just one
 

Torinate

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Gotcha. I’ve seen the MMR cooling mod. I’m surprised it isn’t talked about (ok, very very rarely) here. Any “easy” way of doing this mod? Maybe I’ll make a new post instead of hijacking this one...
 

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SSG 5.0

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What was the reason for failure?
 

SSG 5.0

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Heat. The rings expand all the way until the ring end gap disappears and the ends touch and push out against the cylinder walls and break the piston
He’s probably pushing high hp on his car then.
 
 




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