How to jack the rear to place stands underneath the car?

[Minn19]

I’ve used these for years. Very solid and very easy to use with only one jack/one person. Only problem is that they are a little low and are not height adjustable. But, I’ve changed all fluids on the car and other things with them so they get the car high enough. Not cheap either though.

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

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[SVTinAR]

This is exactly what I do and I do it all the time. I track my car so it goes up on stands as soon as it comes back from the track and then goes back up again before going to the track again. It's easy and one person can do it in 5 minutes. (Note that it takes me a couple of minutes longer than it might take you since I have a Race Deck floor and have to put plywood under the jack and jack stands and I am 77 years old.)

<TED>

You the man Ted. You've got 10 years on me and I'm glad to read you are still getting after it.

 

[tedj101]

You the man Ted. You've got 10 years on me and I'm glad to read you are still getting after it.

Yep! Leaving for VIR right now! Got to get in all I can while I still can!

<TED>

 

[madlag]

1 jack, 4 jack stands. I do use the steeda jacking rails but they are not necessary. Nothing wrong with this approach; I've done many times on this car now since owning. This is also a method that many mechanics will use when they've run out of life space in their garage and/or when they know its going to be off the ground for long time. Ask me how i know lol.

Like everything else you need to use common sense. I wouldn't jack up any car no matter what I have it it was a smooth, level concrete surface. period.

edit to add: I to use the hard rubber caps on top the jack stands to ensure good grippy, non slip surface.

 

[lightrules]

reviving this thread with a some Qs. want to make sure i get this right the first time with my new R:

1) i need to install my steeda jacking rails and g-trac brace. i want to get it up off the ground so i can see things clearly. do i use my low profile jack on the pinch welds this initial time or is there another spot? my low profile jack isnt very long so it doesnt have reach to go much further "in". of course once i get the rails installed, it'll be easier to install the g-trac brace since i can have stands set up. which leads to...

2) am i reading the above comments correctly? with the jacking rails installed, i jack 1 side from the center of the steeda rail, just high enough to get 2 stands under each end of the steeda rail. with these 2 stands at their lowest setting, i release the low profile jack and go to the other side and repeat? and the 1st side is stable enough while i jack up the 2nd side?

3) are these recommended to use also on all 4 stands? https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-2-pc-63373.html

thanks in advance...

 

[zzrat]

Lightrules, I am exactly going thru what you are describing with GR245 just a week ago. I have a nice low-pro jack with a 8" piece of 2x4 on top of jack to go against the pinch welds to give it a buffer. Take one side up right in the middle of span between wheels. Place your jack stands closest to wheels providing area to install your new jacking rails. Repeat on other side. Wanted more height so repeated steps & ratchet up jack stands to desired height. "Most Important" jack stands are safe up to area where ratchet rail travels no higher than the structurally boxed area of the stand. Ended up with 18 1/2" from bottom of pinch welds to floor. Really see no need for the rubber piece to fit on the stands to protect pinch welds. Stands will not hurt them.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

reviving this thread with a some Qs. want to make sure i get this right the first time with my new R:

1) i need to install my steeda jacking rails and g-trac brace. i want to get it up off the ground so i can see things clearly. do i use my low profile jack on the pinch welds this initial time or is there another spot? my low profile jack isnt very long so it doesnt have reach to go much further "in". of course once i get the rails installed, it'll be easier to install the g-trac brace since i can have stands set up. which leads to...

2) am i reading the above comments correctly? with the jacking rails installed, i jack 1 side from the center of the steeda rail, just high enough to get 2 stands under each end of the steeda rail. with these 2 stands at their lowest setting, i release the low profile jack and go to the other side and repeat? and the 1st side is stable enough while i jack up the 2nd side?

3) are these recommended to use also on all 4 stands? https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-2-pc-63373.html

thanks in advance...

I would install the jacking rails first with the car on the ground. I did that and it was easy. Even scraping the body "putty" off near the front so my BMR rails were flush with the surface they were bolted to was easy. Just used a flat head screw driver handy; didn't remove any paint.

Not clear what you are asking in #2 but as posted before, I like lots of room under the car so jack up one side half way, put stands under it, then jack the other side all the way and put stands, then finish jacking up the first side to the same height. And yes, jack from some mid point on the rail to raise both front and back of a side.

I use those harbor freight caps just to minimize scratching the paint on the car or stands. I also use a cap on the floor jack for the same reason. Of course, in my case it would be more of a shame to scratch up the beautiful red powder coating of my BMR rails. ;)

 

[key01]

I also mounted my Steeda rails while the car was flat on the ground. No big deal

 

[JohnVallo]

reviving this thread with a some Qs. want to make sure i get this right the first time with my new R:

2) am i reading the above comments correctly? with the jacking rails installed, i jack 1 side from the center of the steeda rail, just high enough to get 2 stands under each end of the steeda rail. with these 2 stands at their lowest setting, i release the low profile jack and go to the other side and repeat? and the 1st side is stable enough while i jack up the 2nd side?

The important thing here is: "As the car gets jacked up, do the wheels on the jack move, or compensate as the lifting occurs". On a smooth concrete surface the wheels on the jack should roll slightly as the car is jacked up. If this is the case this procedure is perfectly safe. I always jack one side up as far as the jack will go, then the other side. If your jack is sitting on very rough concrete, gravel, or dirt and won't roll then you need to be very, very careful.

 

[Deleted member 35644]

I have the steeda jacking rails and I use one floor jack on the jacking rail to lift the car to service all four tires at once. Placing the jack slightly behind the rear view mirror (front to rear), one side of the car comes up. Then I put jack stands at the front and back of the jacking rail. Then I go to the other side and repeat. Works great.

Thank you for posting this. This is just the solution I've been looking for so I can do my own tire rotations!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

If your jack is sitting on very rough concrete, gravel, or dirt and won't roll then you need to be very, very careful.

Also if the surface has expansion joints the wheels can roll into. Floor jack wheels are pretty small so even a narrow joint with the concrete edges rounded can stop the jack from moving as needed. I have to plan where I place the jack or the angle from perpendicular with the car to make sure that doesn't happen in my garage.

 

[lightrules]

good stuff guys, seems like there are various methods and rationales for doing how you all do it.

@bjstang, is this the one you are using and does it come with allen screws to bolt on? https://www.amazon.com/DEWHEL-Premi...TF8&qid=1543593541&sr=1-4&keywords=dewhel+pad

looks just like the ZL1 addons pads: https://zl1addons.com/collections/jackpads-magpads/products/mustang-6th-gen-lift-pads-bolt-on

 

[s2ms]

+1. Guess the older I get the more I dislike being under a car on jack stands. For under car stuff I built a set of wheel cribs out of 2x4's. Easy, inexpensive, safe, and they can be modular.

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