hood vent removal?

[jeffrey unck]

Does anyone have info on how to remove the hood vents for an Xpel install?

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[Cobra Jet]

Does anyone have info on how to remove the hood vents for an Xpel install?

From what year?

If there is a hood liner, remove it.
Once liner is removed the hood vents should be secured with nuts to studs. Remove the nuts. After nuts are removed, you should be able to press the vent up (pushing up towards hood so it pops UP off of hood).

Be sure to have a friend or your other hand holding the exterior vent as you are pushing it upward to pop it out of the hood - otherwise if it dislodges it could roll down the hood, damaging or scratching your hood.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Just adding here since this is the first hit I got when searching for how to remove them:

My 2020 Mustang very unfortunately had some glue affixed between the vent underside and the hood. For what I have no idea. Even though I was careful when removing the vents a few days ago, and also used one of those plastic panel removal tools to lift the hood vents out a little bit at a time on each side, one of the four screw holders broke on one vent, and two on the other vent.

Waiting for the JB-weld to set on the two broken parts I tried to glue together now. The third one was hopelessly broken, so cut out a fitting piece of plastic and JB-welding that too. Hopefully it bonds strong enough with the material left.

Had I know there was glue there I'd be even more careful and would have tried to use some heat to hopefully dissolve some of the glue.

 

[Rapid Red]

Pictures ...... cannot follow what you're saying

 

[NGOT8R]

The hood vents (underside plates) are secured with the 4 nuts and 2 pieces of 3M double-stick tape. I used a panel tool and a heat gun to remove mine with no issues.

 

[Rapid Red]

And the clip releases the top side, trying to figure what Michael from Spain broke..

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Inside the circle you can see some blue residue which I assume is glue. I don't understand why they would put glue there (though I guess it could also be blue loc-tite that was spilled), but it was similar on all four corners. When I lifted up the vents from the hood, part of the plastic material on some of the corners unfortunately broke. :-/

I did not see any traces of tape on my vents, though that would obviously have been much preferred.

 

[kilobravo]

From my amateur view, it sure looks like thread locker.

Edit: There appears to be a similar substance here.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

From my amateur view, it sure looks like thread locker.

Edit: There appears to be a similar substance here.

Yes, it is possible. All screws have what I assume is blue loc-tite on them. But if no glue, I'm not sure what would have broken them on removal. :-/

 

[Rapid Red]

Inside the circle you can see some blue residue which I assume is glue. I don't understand why they would put glue there (though I guess it could also be blue loc-tite that was spilled), but it was similar on all four corners. When I lifted up the vents from the hood, part of the plastic material on some of the corners unfortunately broke. :-/

I did not see any traces of tape on my vents, though that would obviously have been much preferred.

What you applied JB weld on is made so that the stud can be removed, the pins locate the bottom pan. It does look like some one used Lock-tite on the threaded stud, & totally unnecessary

From the top side of the hood. Lower the heat extractor into place. The side with the pins seen in picture go in first and will seat or lay flush with the hood.

The side marked with the arrow will not. Note it has a clip, keeping pressure at that spot, not to the sides, push down it will pop into place.

Under the hood install nuts, do not over tighten just need hold things in place.

If ever you wish to remove these again. Remove 4 nuts, the clip will release the assembly, lift out.

Cheers

 

[WD Pro]

I have seen three sets of these off the car - all have the blue precoat thread lock on the studs (but it is not an aggressive thread lock).

@Michael_vroomvroom - the top face of that plastic surface needs to sit flat on your hood, the epoxy you have in that area will cause the vent to sit proud

Edit to add this picture :

You can easily see in the dirt on the bottom right hand stud the impression of the plastic that you have broken - you can see how that area needs to sit flush on the hood

WD

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

What you applied JB weld on is made so that the stud can be removed, the pins locate the bottom pan. It does look like some one used Lock-tite on the threaded stud, & totally unnecessary

From the top side of the hood. Lower the heat extractor into place. The side with the pins seen in picture go in first and will seat or lay flush with the hood.

The side marked with the arrow will not. Note it has a clip, keeping pressure at that spot, not to the sides, push down it will pop into place.

Under the hood install nuts, do not over tighten just need hold things in place.

If ever you wish to remove these again. Remove 4 nuts, the clip will release the assembly, lift out.

Cheers

Thanks, that's how I removed it the first time I think, and helped with a panel tool to be extra careful, but unfortunately things broke.

I won't be able to remove the screws easily after I've smeared jb-weld all over the casing holding them now, but hopefully I won't need to remove them either, though I need to let the screws have some wiggle room in order to be able to fit them.

I'm not sure why loctite would be unnecessary here. It seems like a good idea to me, especially since I don't think you can screw the nuts on very tight without breaking the screw casing. Actually, thinking about that now, maybe that is what happened in my case. Maybe the casing was already broken before I tried to detach it because somebody screwed the nuts on to hard. The way the screws fit into the casing, one would not be able to feel that the part that hold the casing to the screw is broken if only the top of the casing is broken. The screw would still fit inside the casing and one would be able to unscrew the nuts without rotating the screw, though the screw/nut would not have any clamping force on the casing any longer.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

@Michael_vroomvroom - the top face of that plastic surface needs to sit flat on your hood, the epoxy you have in that area will cause the vent to sit proud

Edit to add this picture :

You can easily see in the dirt on the bottom right hand stud the impression of the plastic that you have broken - you can see how that area needs to sit flush on the hood

WD

Hi, thank you for the warning. I will double check if the tiny raise created by me smearing jb-weld all over will cause a problem when fitting. If it does, hopefully I can cut or sand it down a bit on the top. Should probably do that anyway to reduce scratches on the hood when fitting.

 

[WD Pro]

How did you go on with the fix ?

I popped my vents out again and the pre coat thread lock is very evident in this photo :

WD

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

How did you go on with the fix ?

I popped my vents out again and the pre coat thread lock is very evident in this photo :

WD

Yeah, after thinking about it some more, I too think it's just threadlock as you guys suggested, and not glue as I suspected, and I think it must have been tightened down too hard at Ford without anybody noticing. The way it's designed it seems it's not so easy to notice if you brake the plastic covers while tightening the nuts.

I sanded it down a fair bit and while I'm not 100% sure, I suspect it, like you warned, may be sitting a tiny bit raised on the glued corner now.

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