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Highway Camber Settings?

Condor1970

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After having fun for the last several years, I decided to set the camber of my 2018 GT for more of a daily highway driver, with hopes to maximize tire life. I had it set -1.2 front, and -1.5 rear, but after 30k the inside tread is gone, with plenty left on the outside.

Anyway, I have front plates and rear brackets installed, so what would you guys recommend for daily driving to get better even tire wear? Maybe -1.0, or -0.8 on all 4?
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Mach VII

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It's not camber that wears your tires that way, it's excess toe...
Can you share the alignment sheet?
 
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Condor1970

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This was done a couple years ago. At the time, the toe seemed just fine. Unless it got knocked out somehow, and wore the inside tread down really bad.

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WItoTX

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Toe is your issue. Not camber. The fact that your camber changed in that alignment without camber plates shows that the shop did a half ass job on your alignment IMO.
 

Mach VII

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NightmareMoon

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What tires, size, and wheel sizes? If you’ve got MP4S tires, you did great and got as much as you could get. Try a different tire if you dont like inside edge wear.

you could check the toe alignment more frequently than every 2 years..
 
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Condor1970

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Toe is your issue. Not camber. The fact that your camber changed in that alignment without camber plates shows that the shop did a half ass job on your alignment IMO.
I already have camber plates up front. That's how they adjusted it. Toe was set to 0.1, which should be fine, so I'm not sure why that would be the issue.

They set the rear camber using the slotted factory hole. I'm wondering if the arm slipped a little in the rear, so I installed a set of J&M Camber Brackets (like the Steeda brackets) last weekend.

I'm taking it in tomorrow for an alignment at a local performance shop.
 

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What tires, size, and wheel sizes? If you’ve got MP4S tires, you did great and got as much as you could get. Try a different tire if you dont like inside edge wear.

you could check the toe alignment more frequently than every 2 years..
Good question, OP what tires?
 

NightmareMoon

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I already have camber plates up front. That's how they adjusted it. Toe was set to 0.1, which should be fine, so I'm not sure why that would be the issue.

They set the rear camber using the slotted factory hole. I'm wondering if the arm slipped a little in the rear, so I installed a set of J&M Camber Brackets (like the Steeda brackets) last weekend.

I'm taking it in tomorrow for an alignment at a local performance shop.
0.1 is about the max front toe I'd be comfortable with, but lets see what the new alignment guys say its evolved into after 2 years.
 
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Condor1970

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Update: I had it realigned over week ago, and wanted to drive a bit before updating this thread. I went ahead and had him adjust the front and rear both to -1.2 degrees for daily driving. The toe is slightly less than 0.1, so it's in spec. I can visually tell the camber is less in the rear than it was before. He did not measure the before camber, because I installed the camber brackets before the alignment, and had to set them to max before alignment. But visually, I would say the camber was probably greater than -2.0 degrees, because even at max with the new brackets he said it was around -3.0, and it looked similar to what it was before I even installed the brackets. It had to have to slipped a bit over the last couple of years. My hope is the camber brackets will lock it in better, and prevent this from happening again.
As far as driving goes. I don't push my car anymore like I did when first getting it. It's basically just a daily driver now, with very few occasions of spirited fun. So, to be honest, it seems just as good as always. If anything ,it feels like it digs a little better now from a stop, especially when the roads are wet. Before my tires would spin a little on occasion in the rain, but not so much now.
 

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These results are expected. Less camber, you'll generally have more straight line traction but you won't corner as well.
 

Bluemustang

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Just to add my 2 cents: Personally I wouldn't run a camber setting any less than -1.5 on the front. It's a big heavy car that needs camber to turn. And the MacPherson strut front suspension has a weak dynamic camber curve anyway. Even if I wasn't pushing the car that hard, there might be a situation where I need to hustle it around a corner. The rear is less of a problem.

I run my camber at -2.5F/-2R on the street, but I like to hustle corners. But I experience minimal negative effects to braking and acceleration. There is some tramlining that many people wouldn't care for, but it doesn't bother me much.
 

Bluemustang

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This, this, this! And even -1.5° on the front camber is conservative, even for street. Another key point of this is rear ZERO thrust angle.
I agree these settings are conservative. In my opinion, around -1.8F/-1.5R is a good balanced alignment.
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