HELP! Rear Subframe bolt Cross Threaded

[NeverSatisfied]

Hey guys. Need some help here.

I did the CB005 install yesterday and it was all good until the front passenger bolt. The other three went in fine, but this one would tighten about 4 turns by hand then get difficult. I knew about the issue with cross threading so I took a lot of time with ratchet strap trying to align it better to no avail. Ended up getting it into the best position I could and tightened with a ratchet. It was not nearly as easy as the other 3 bolts, but I never hit any crazy resistance.

The issue is that when I got to the end of tightening the bolt, it stopped getting tighter and just started spinning. There’s still resistancebut it’s just spinning.

Am I cooked guys? Anyone know what tf the issue is here?

@BMR Tech

Have you fixed it? Just curious what is the diagnosis

I’m curious too, this sounds like you’ve ripped the threads out with the shitty oem bolts that double as cross threading taps. This may end up a bit more intensive than cleaning the threads with a tap.

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[BigD94]

Have you fixed it? Just curious what is the diagnosis

I haven't even had a chance to get the car in the air yet. Too busy the past few days.
I did buy the HF tap set which has the 14x2.0 tap and also bought the helicoil kit for this sized bolt. Ordered a new subframe bolt, but this damn cyber issue has it delayed.
Hopefully I can figure this out next week.

I’m curious too, this sounds like you’ve ripped the threads out with the shitty oem bolts that double as cross threading taps. This may end up a bit more intensive than cleaning the threads with a tap.

Damn I'm really hoping this isn't worst case.
Gonna try to fix it next week with a tap and, if necessary, the helicoil kit.

The weird thing was that the bolt was never going in smooth regardless of subframe position and regardless of whether I had the CB005 arm attached or not. Without anything else even touching the bolt, it wasn't going in free of resistance. Maybe the threads were fucked up before I even took the bolts out (car had springs on when I bought it). There was some resistance on the way out and the threads on the old bolt didn't look great. Who knows. Doesn't matter. Just wanna get the car in good shape asap.

 

[DougS550]

Have you fixed it? Just curious what is the diagnosis

I had to oblong the hole on 2 each M10 bolts, one on each side. No biggy

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I haven't even had a chance to get the car in the air yet. Too busy the past few days.
I did buy the HF tap set which has the 14x2.0 tap and also bought the helicoil kit for this sized bolt. Ordered a new subframe bolt, but this damn cyber issue has it delayed.
Hopefully I can figure this out next week.




Damn I'm really hoping this isn't worst case.
Gonna try to fix it next week with a tap and, if necessary, the helicoil kit.

The weird thing was that the bolt was never going in smooth regardless of subframe position and regardless of whether I had the CB005 arm attached or not. Without anything else even touching the bolt, it wasn't going in free of resistance. Maybe the threads were fucked up before I even took the bolts out (car had springs on when I bought it). There was some resistance on the way out and the threads on the old bolt didn't look great. Who knows. Doesn't matter. Just wanna get the car in good shape asap.

That sounds like a probable cause—someone got it buggered on the previous spring install and just sent it with the impact.

I’m not sure there’s enough meat in there for a helicoil. I’d definitely try tapping and chase or replace the oem bolt, but if that doesn’t work maybe there’s enough meat to step it up one bolt size?

 

[BigD94]

That sounds like a probable cause—someone got it buggered on the previous spring install and just sent it with the impact.

I’m not sure there’s enough meat in there for a helicoil. I’d definitely try tapping and chase or replace the oem bolt, but if that doesn’t work maybe there’s enough meat to step it up one bolt size?

Yea man I guess we'll see next week. I'm really hoping to just tap this for 14x2.0 and use a new OEM bolt. If not then I guess try the helicoil. Crazy shit.

 

[DougS550]

That sounds like a probable cause—someone got it buggered on the previous spring install and just sent it with the impact.

I’m not sure there’s enough meat in there for a helicoil. I’d definitely try tapping and chase or replace the oem bolt, but if that doesn’t work maybe there’s enough meat to step it up one bolt size?

If it were me I would do everything mentioned But I would Not use a helicoil (unless last resort and only by a machinist). If I couldn't clean threads with: (Machinist Grade) 1st: Chaser 2nd: Run a tap through it using tap machine/oil 3rd: Take it to ford and ask them what Ford engeneers recommend. I couldn't imagine their is enough threads to go from a M14 to M16 bolt. That is a "Huge" difference in bolt size. Good Luck

 

[BigD94]

Have you fixed it? Just curious what is the diagnosis

I’m curious too, this sounds like you’ve ripped the threads out with the shitty oem bolts that double as cross threading taps. This may end up a bit more intensive than cleaning the threads with a tap.

If anyone cares I have an update......

Finally got around to this today. Was super busy the last 2 weeks and the CDK issue delayed the new bolts being shipped by over a week. Oh well.

I purchased the nicer tap set from HF. I first removed the subframe bolt that was causing the issue. It loosened up just fine and spun out like a normal bolt. There was a bit of metal shavings on it though. Used my borescope to look closely at the threads and they were a bit chewed but seemed to be structurally intact. Used the M14x2.0 tap and ran it through slowly. It bit decently hard and i had good feedback so I'm pretty sure there was still a good bit of meat in there for the threads. Cleaned it up with air, checked it on the borescope again, said a prayer, and then went in with the new OEM bolt. Used a very small amount of antisieze and it went in fine. There was a very small amount of resistance with the CB005 arm on, but it tightened up smooth once I got it in a good position and I hit the 129 ft/lbs just fine.

I really hope this is the last time I have to worry about this haha.

 

[DougS550]

If anyone cares I have an update......

Finally got around to this today. Was super busy the last 2 weeks and the CDK issue delayed the new bolts being shipped by over a week. Oh well.

I purchased the nicer tap set from HF. I first removed the subframe bolt that was causing the issue. It loosened up just fine and spun out like a normal bolt. There was a bit of metal shavings on it though. Used my borescope to look closely at the threads and they were a bit chewed but seemed to be structurally intact. Used the M14x2.0 tap and ran it through slowly. It bit decently hard and i had good feedback so I'm pretty sure there was still a good bit of meat in there for the threads. Cleaned it up with air, checked it on the borescope again, said a prayer, and then went in with the new OEM bolt. Used a very small amount of antisieze and it went in fine. There was a very small amount of resistance with the CB005 arm on, but it tightened up smooth once I got it in a good position and I hit the 129 ft/lbs just fine.

I really hope this is the last time I have to worry about this haha.

 

[DougS550]

Great to hear

 

[ice445]

That sounds like a probable cause—someone got it buggered on the previous spring install and just sent it with the impact.

I’m not sure there’s enough meat in there for a helicoil. I’d definitely try tapping and chase or replace the oem bolt, but if that doesn’t work maybe there’s enough meat to step it up one bolt size?

Yup. Previous monkey to do the springs cast the spell threadus deletus. It's almost mandatory to drop the subframe somewhat to get the stock springs out, lol.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

If anyone cares I have an update......

Finally got around to this today. Was super busy the last 2 weeks and the CDK issue delayed the new bolts being shipped by over a week. Oh well.

I purchased the nicer tap set from HF. I first removed the subframe bolt that was causing the issue. It loosened up just fine and spun out like a normal bolt. There was a bit of metal shavings on it though. Used my borescope to look closely at the threads and they were a bit chewed but seemed to be structurally intact. Used the M14x2.0 tap and ran it through slowly. It bit decently hard and i had good feedback so I'm pretty sure there was still a good bit of meat in there for the threads. Cleaned it up with air, checked it on the borescope again, said a prayer, and then went in with the new OEM bolt. Used a very small amount of antisieze and it went in fine. There was a very small amount of resistance with the CB005 arm on, but it tightened up smooth once I got it in a good position and I hit the 129 ft/lbs just fine.

I really hope this is the last time I have to worry about this haha.

Man that’s good news that there was enough meat left to fix it!

 

[DougS550]

Yup. Previous monkey to do the springs cast the spell threadus deletus. It's almost mandatory to drop the subframe somewhat to get the stock springs out, lol.

I just installed steeda ultimate dual rate springs and I could not remove my stock magneride springs without lower irs craddle.

 

[ice445]

I just installed steeda ultimate dual rate springs and I could not remove my stock magneride springs without lower irs craddle.

Yeah, I read somewhere some people have done it without but it seems impossible to me

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