HELP! Rear Subframe bolt Cross Threaded

[DarkSubRosa]

Like BMR said, keep all of them loose. The Steeda kit is very very tight and having a pry bar and a friend handy helps with these installs. It's really easy to screw up a bolt on these. Like said before, by hand as far as you can and if you feel too might fight, stop. With that said, it still will be pretty tight because of tolerances.

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[Digital_Synapse]

Like BMR said, keep all of them loose. The Steeda kit is very very tight and having a pry bar and a friend handy helps with these installs. It's really easy to screw up a bolt on these. Like said before, by hand as far as you can and if you feel too might fight, stop. With that said, it still will be pretty tight because of tolerances.

I had them all loose, had two pry bars and no help. I'm a fairly strong guy. I think something has to be wrong with the car's bolt hole. All three lined up loose and went in hand tight, the fourth started hand tight just fine and stopped. I can't wrap my head around the fact that three line up and the fourth doesn't. That doesn't make sense, if the two on the right and lined up, there's absolutely no play in those alignment pieces. That shit goes in straight lol. The cradle should be square with the other side. Hence the rear going in no problem. We are talking millimeters off here across a span of a few feet, I understand it's going to be stupid tight, but that's down right insane.

 

[DarkSubRosa]

I had them all loose, had two pry bars and no help. I'm a fairly strong guy. I think something has to be wrong with the car's bolt hole. All three lined up loose and went in hand tight, the fourth started hand tight just fine and stopped. I can't wrap my head around the fact that three line up and the fourth doesn't. That doesn't make sense, if the two on the right and lined up, there's absolutely no play in those alignment pieces. That shit goes in straight lol. The cradle should be square with the other side. Hence the rear going in no problem. We are talking millimeters off here across a span of a few feet, I understand it's going to be stupid tight, but that's down right insane.

I've done three of these so far on locals, the 4th bolt is always a pain because the tolerances are ungodly tight. I think that's why so many people are stripping the threads. I mean, it's good from the standpoint of that shit isn't going anywhere and has no way of being off after the install.

 

[Digital_Synapse]

[MENTION=7394]DarkSubRosa[/MENTION] Next time I'm in your neck of the woods I'll swing by with that fourth alignment sleeve and maybe you can install it for me. I'll bring beer of your choice, and pizza.

 

[DarkSubRosa]

@DarkSubRosa Next time I'm in your neck of the woods I'll swing by with that fourth alignment sleeve and maybe you can install it for me. I'll bring beer of your choice, and pizza.

:cheers: I promise you we'll get that SOB in there.

 

[Side_Pce]

Same thing happened to me. Definitely nerve racking and painful to swallow. Given the huge bolt used on the subframe and the course thread I should have saw that coming. Very loose tolerance on the threads which is why they use such a huge torque spec. Half way threaded in you can jiggle the bolt. Definitely keep power tools away from these bolts.

 

[Dizzle58]

I am one of the locals that [MENTION=7394]DarkSubRosa[/MENTION] is talking about. We had the same issue on the 4th bolt but didn't thread it up to much before it got tight. He went and got a tap/die set just to be sure and it did clean up a little but after taking some serious time and me crapping myself it went in.

After seeing how much tighter the tolerances became with this kit I can see how it is off from the factory. I mean this is a massive improvement, IMO. Thought about trying some ratchet straps to help move it into position if your doing it by yourself?

 

[scott_0]

[MENTION=17026]Digital_Synapse[/MENTION] how did you end up making out with that last bolt?

 

[Digital_Synapse]

[MENTION=17026]Digital_Synapse[/MENTION] how did you end up making out with that last bolt?

I did not and will not attempt the 4th sleeve. I don't want to chance this happening again. I'm convinced the bolt hole is not square with the others.

 

[scott_0]

I did not and will not attempt the 4th sleeve. I don't want to chance this happening again. I'm convinced the bolt hole is not square with the others.

damn :( that sucks! keep us updated

 

[Digital_Synapse]

Will do! I'm so surprised that after this install and alignment that the car is so well balanced. I can steer with the throttle a lot better now. Can over/under steer with the quickness. I can actually get the ass to walk sideways pretty easy. The hop is pretty much gone, but I'm adjusting and adjusting the Koni setup. :cheers:

 

[SteveW]

I think the key with these things is to follow the Steeda instructions and get the front bolts in first, then using a pry tool through the subframe alignment holes, line up the rear bolts to get them started by hand.

If you get one front bolt and both rears in you will have a hard time with the 2nd forward bolt.

A large shank screw drivers works good as a pry tool. I've found that I needed to pull back the subframe just a hair through the compliance in the bushings to line up the rear bolt holes with the front ones started.

 

[16s550]

So I have same issue. But I stripped the bolt too. I found a bolt that seems to be same thread. 14mmx2.0. But it's shorter. Gonna try that until I can buy another stock bolt when they are open. Im on my way yo.harbor freight to look for the tap and die set. Anyone know if I picked up the correct bolt? It looks the same just not as long. Or will I need a bigger bolt after tapping?

 

[16s550]

Crazy how it's all on the same bolt too fornus. The front driver. Even when doing the fronts first and lowering 1inch I couldn't do it. I was pulling hard and using pry bar. I skipped to the rear two rears and they went In just fine. So have three in but 4th one I'll pay a shop to do or if a friend can help would be cool. Right now omw back to try and tap hole. Wish me luck. I couldn't find a bolt same length but it's pretty close hope it works until I can buy a new one when ford opens.

 

[16s550]

Well thank you baby Jesus for this thread and digital synapse for the size on the tapping topl. Big help. The old i found wasn't as long as the stock but did the job for now. I'll hopefully get one Monday from.dealer. I also did not attempt to add the 4ty sleeve because I just couldn't get the dam.suspension to shift towards passenger side in order to get bolt in. I also do not understand how 3 go in but the 4th does not. Any who when I have more money I'll pay a shop to throw in the 4thouse one. Thanks again for this thread and saving my butt. Haha.

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