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Headers on Mach 1 advice needed

ChitownStang

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Hey all, need a little advice. I know this may be covered in other threads but I'm asking anyways.
I've got some $ to burn and I was looking at options for some more power without super charging since that would be too much $.
-I have a stock Mach 1 Exhaust with Steeda H-pipe currently and it was a nice bump in Volume, I think perfect actually. If I were to install catted headers and reinstall the Resonator, how much louder are we talking inside and outside car? I really don't want it to be louder.
-Will I still pass emissions in Illinois?
-How much power are we talking, only 20hp? Is power noticeable?

Currently I have a flex tune and run E70 in the summer which really wakes up the car in lower RPM's so wondering if the Headers will be worth the $2500+ installed.

Thanks
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Ratical

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Maybe others will provide more opinions. But headers was not for me. It was a lot louder in all modes and very raspy sounding to me. After 100 miles I took them off and went back to stock. I had factory resonator with and without headers.
 

FoMoCo

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I have long tubes with cats and Steeda H-pipe. Sounds great IMO. I do have active exhaust and can adjust sound as needed. The stock resonator will tone it down and still sound aggressive. No drone either way. My car passed emissions. Just need to make sure all emissions monitors are turned on and Ready.
 

NGOT8R

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While I don’t have a Mach 1, I do have a 2019 Bullitt, which is basically the same engine wise. When I first installed catted LTHs on my car 3.5 years ago, I paired them with a Steeda X-pipe and factory Active Exhaust. The sound was great and was quietest in with the exhaust valves closed. There was absolutely zero problems hearing or holding a conversation with my passengers. It sounded great IMO. Now I have gone catless and added a Steeda axle back and the car is indeed louder, but still sounds great and I can still hold a good conversation and hear my stereo just fine.

Yes, it was worth to spend the $2500+ to do LTHs.They’re also a good base for future performance mods like SC or even nitrous.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bullitt-long-tube-header-installation.147899/
 

I Bleed Ford Blue

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If you are one of the lucky few that doesn't get a code after you install the headers, then you will pass emissions anywhere that is not CA or abides by C.A.R.B. standards. Technically long tube headers are illegal in CA on anything built from 1975 and later, but the other 49 states will allow them if you can pass emissions.

You can expect about a 20 hp increase with long tubes, if you get a code after install, just have your tune adjusted for the headers.

As for sound, I like the way the mach exhaust sounds, I just want a little more volume and the hp increase from the headers. On my 17 I put on long tubes, an x-pipe and ford racing sport mufflers and it was loud as fuck when I got on it, so this time around, I'm just doing long tubes with the stock AE on the mach 1 and I'm leaving the resonator in place.
 

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ChitownStang

ChitownStang

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Thanks guys.
I think it will be too loud for me.
Ratical, that sounds like an expensive lesson learned! Wow
I talked to a guy at Lethal Performance,
He was very honest in telling me it will be substantially louder and I do not want that. So headers are not for me.
 

NGOT8R

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Thanks guys.
I think it will be too loud for me.
Ratical, that sounds like an expensive lesson learned! Wow
I talked to a guy at Lethal Performance,
He was very honest in telling me it will be substantially louder and I do not want that. So headers are not for me.
They’re not for everyone. It’s good that you took the time to ask and carefully compare and consider information before making your decision. The last thing you would have wanted to do is install them and decide they weren’t for you and then have to pull them and go back to a different setup.
 

I Bleed Ford Blue

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The last thing you would have wanted to do is install them and decide they weren’t for you and then have to pull them and go back to a different setup.
I totally agree. Installing long tubes is not a job for the faint of heart and paying to have them installed is not cheap either.
 
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ChitownStang

ChitownStang

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I remember when I first got my 15gt and installed some American thunder mufflers or something like that, drone and volume were so horrible I tore them off within 24 hours and went with Borla S-type street. It was perfect.
That cost me a little but of $ to learn a lesson but headers would be way more!
 

I Bleed Ford Blue

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If you want a hp bump but don't want the excessive noise from headers, and don't want to spend the money to go boosted, try a nitrous setup. You can get into a nitrous setup for about 1K and if you stay with a small shot (under 100 hp) they are pretty safe.

If you decide on nitrous, get a wet system, they are much safer on the street. Wet setups inject nitrous and fuel, dry setups only inject nitrous
 

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ChitownStang

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If you want a hp bump but don't want the excessive noise from headers, and don't want to spend the money to go boosted, try a nitrous setup. You can get into a nitrous setup for about 1K and if you stay with a small shot (under 100 hp) they are pretty safe.

If you decide on nitrous, get a wet system, they are much safer on the street. Wet setups inject nitrous and fuel, dry setups only inject nitrous
Interesting, never thought of that.
I’m going to look into that.
Thanks!
 
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ChitownStang

ChitownStang

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Agreed, I think the winter is make me stir crazy!
 

I Bleed Ford Blue

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Interesting, never thought of that.
I’m going to look into that.
Thanks!
Just remember, nitrous requires backing off the timing just like boost does, but when you're not spraying, you're down on power, where as boosted cars are under boost all the time so you don't see the power loss from reduced timing. Anyway, that's why I said to keep it under a 100 shot. A small shot will let you run safe without any timing changes. Just make sure you have enough fuel, maybe a little too much fuel. Over fueling will compensate and allow you to run nitrous without changing the tune. You can't do that with a dry system.
 

RazzaRossa

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Just remember, nitrous requires backing off the timing just like boost does, but when you're not spraying, you're down on power, where as boosted cars are under boost all the time so you don't see the power loss from reduced timing. Anyway, that's why I said to keep it under a 100 shot. A small shot will let you run safe without any timing changes. Just make sure you have enough fuel, maybe a little too much fuel. Over fueling will compensate and allow you to run nitrous without changing the tune. You can't do that with a dry system.
Interesting, and seems easy enough. Would the safe bet be to change to larger injectors? I knew nitrous was always an option, but seems the easiest to do and undo if you decide to sell, plus no moving parts to wear out, at least from the nitrous setup point of view, blowin' your moder is still a possibility I guess.
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