Header hitting frame of car

BoostN IT

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Hello, I just installed 2M headers last weekend and I kind of am regretting it because the fitment is bad for my car. One of the issues I cannot get past is on the passenger side it almost touches the frame of my car. I tried denting it a little bit and scooting it over a little bit as much as I could. But it seems like I cannot get that much clearance still. I would hate to take these headers back off to dent them even more. I thought about possibly buying steeda motor mounts to help make the engine not move as much. Anyone experience this before? Any help is appreciated.

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BoostN IT

BoostN IT

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Also under WOT I am experiencing 1.8 knock at 4500rpm. But then again its cold outside and my car kept spinning the tires so it was not a good log.
 

givemeadollar

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This is a classic you get what you pay for deal right here. Spend $400 on crappy headers instead of paying $700ish for good quality headers. Buy once, cry once.

I would take off the crappy ebay headers and throw them out and get some real headers. Make sure to buy oem gaskets for the headers as aftermarket ones are crappy and will leak.
 
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This is a classic you get what you pay for deal right here. Spend $400 on crappy headers instead of paying $700ish for good quality headers. Buy once, cry once.

I would take off the crappy ebay headers and throw them out and get some real headers. Make sure to buy oem gaskets for the headers as aftermarket ones are crappy and will leak.
Yep I see that now. trying to make these work if possible.
 

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You’re going to have to take the header off to clearance it properly. I had clearance issues with my first set of a Ultimate Headers and had to remove them for a replacement set. I did install Steeda motor mounts on my car and they help if you have issues with clearance between the mid pipe and floor pan. If I were you, I’d get a buddy to help. After heating the header until it was red hot, put a deep socket on the end of an extension and while your buddy holds the header steady in the jaws of a vice, lay the socket against the primary tube that you want to clearance and tighten the vice jaws. That should give you a neatly clearanced primary tube. If you’re trying to move the motor to one side, it takes some effort. I had my engine/trans supported by a scissor jack and a phone book. I placed a few solid kicks on the jack to slide the engine over without issue. Note: I don’t recommend doing this if you’re supporting your engine/trans on a tree jack stand.
 

bluebeastsrt

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I’d sell that junk on eBay and move up to a better brand of headers.
 
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You’re going to have to take the header off to clearance it properly. I had clearance issues with my first set of a Ultimate Headers and had to remove them for a replacement set. I did install Steeda motor mounts on my car and they help if you have issues with clearance between the mid pipe and floor pan. If I were you, I’d get a buddy to help. After heating the header until it was red hot, put a deep socket on the end of an extension and while your buddy holds the header steady in the jaws of a vice, lay the socket against the primary tube that you want to clearance and tighten the vice jaws. That should give you a neatly clearanced primary tube. If you’re trying to move the motor to one side, it takes some effort. I had my engine/trans supported by a scissor jack and a phone book. I placed a few solid kicks on the jack to slide the engine over without issue. Note: I don’t recommend doing this if you’re supporting your engine/trans on a tree jack stand.
Thank you, this was helpful. I was hoping I was not the only one who had this issue. I guess taking it off to dent it better may be the only option. Unless I buy new headers.
 

NGOT8R

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Thank you, this was helpful. I was hoping I was not the only one who had this issue. I guess taking it off to dent it better may be the only option. Unless I buy new headers.
You already have the ones you have now, so just dimple them properly and refit them. I didn’t want to take mine back down either, but I had no choice, because I didn’t want to deal with any false knock issues or worse, rub a hole in the header.
 

WhiteyDog

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This is a classic you get what you pay for deal right here. Spend $400 on crappy headers instead of paying $700ish for good quality headers. Buy once, cry once.

I would take off the crappy ebay headers and throw them out and get some real headers. Make sure to buy oem gaskets for the headers as aftermarket ones are crappy and will leak.
Yep, this is why I spent the coin on the Kook's, and got the OEM gaskets. I'm not saying you have to buy Kook's because there are other good brands out there, but I had no issues with fitment, the welds, the quality, and I sure as h*ll didn't have to take a hammer to them. Take those sh*t headers off, bend them into a smaller mass and use them for a boat anchor.
 
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You already have the ones you have now, so just dimple them properly and refit them. I didn’t want to take mine back down either, but I had no choice, because I didn’t want to deal with any false knock issues or worse, rub a hole in the header.
Thank you for not kicking me while i'm down haha. Will try this and hope it works. Thanks
 

Matti777

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In the olden days we would install a torque strap so the engine didn't move towards the passenger side during acceleration.
 

NGOT8R

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Thank you for not kicking me while i'm down haha. Will try this and hope it works. Thanks
Trust me when I say, I was right where you are not long ago. Sounds like you only need to remove one side, whereas I had to remove both. From looking at the photo you posted, I would suggest using a deep well socket on the long extension and lay it parallel to the primary tube when you tighten the vice. Just grab a $20 propane torch and nozzle at the hardware store and heat it up red hot. Have everything ready to go (vice jaws set at proper the gap to accommodate your header primary and socket), so it won’t have a chance to cool down on you before you’re able to dimple it. You got this!
 

80FoxCoupe

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Yep, this is why I spent the coin on the Kook's, and got the OEM gaskets. I'm not saying you have to buy Kook's because there are other good brands out there, but I had no issues with fitment, the welds, the quality, and I sure as h*ll didn't have to take a hammer to them. Take those sh*t headers off, bend them into a smaller mass and use them for a boat anchor.
The reality is that this set of headers may fit perfectly on another car. Tolerances did not stack up in his favor. Mod them or buy another set are the options. Your kooks headers fit good thats why your opinion of them is high. But many folks with s550 and older mustangs say they are shit. Just as many folks say 2m fits great...
 

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