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Header hitting frame of car

turnswrench

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Just making some clearance, Clarence.
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Trust me when I say, I was right where you are not long ago. Sounds like you only need to remove one side, whereas I had to remove both. From looking at the photo you posted, I would suggest using a deep well socket on the long extension and lay it parallel to the primary tube when you tighten the vice. Just grab a $20 propane torch and nozzle at the hardware store and heat it up red hot. Have everything ready to go (vice jaws set at proper the gap to accommodate your header primary and socket), so it won’t have a chance to cool down on you before you’re able to dimple it. You got this!
Thanks! Also, my steering shaft is not happy with the header on drivers side either, but I think I can dent that side while the header is on the car.
 

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Thanks! Also, my steering shaft is not happy with the header on drivers side either, but I think I can dent that side while the header is on the car.
I know it’s not a fun job doing header installs, but I would caution you about trying to dimple the header installed on the car. The last thing you want to do is damage the header bolts or threads in the heads from the excessive force that would be needed to dimple them by hitting them with something. I would just take them both off and do it the right way. While you’re at it, take the time to install the Steeda motor mounts. Another 8-10 hours and you’ll be back on the road in no time. Haha! That’s what the guy on CJ Pony Parts always says.
 

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Can you fit a pry bar or crow bar between the frame and tube and dimple in more with them still attached.
 
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Can you fit a pry bar or crow bar between the frame and tube and dimple in more with them still attached.
Yes I can, I can hit it with a torch underneath while getting a prybar and hammer from up top. But would that put too much strain on header bolts? I do not want them to snap or weaken.
 

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I would agree with the other posters about taking them off. You could call and talk to a tech where they are manufactured and see what they say. It would suck to dent them up trying to get clearance, and then get denied a refund in the event they won't work.
 
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I would agree with the other posters about taking them off. You could call and talk to a tech where they are manufactured and see what they say. It would suck to dent them up trying to get clearance, and then get denied a refund in the event they won't work.
Yeah 2M does not believe in refunds haha. That is the chance I took, now just gotta make them work.
 

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Yeah 2M does not believe in refunds haha. That is the chance I took, now just gotta make them work.
A little patience and you can maybe get them to work. But make sure you have clearance when the engine torques. I've heard about headers contacting the frame inducing false knock.
 
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A little patience and you can maybe get them to work. But make sure you have clearance when the engine torques. I've heard about headers contacting the frame inducing false knock.
Appreciate it, I am getting a little KR at about 4500 rpm under WOT, but unsure if that can be caused by the tires slipping or not. It is cold outside so I have to pedal it haha
 

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Yeah man don't worry about the Karens saying 'you shoulda bought 1700 buck kooks'. No LTH for the s550 has good clearance, plus ALL 1 7/8ths mandrel bent headers make the same hp increases. You could always loosen the factory motor mounts, and give it some wiggle room and retighten. You could even check the alignment on the factory k-member. if its way out from the factory, loosen those bolts as well and readjust. You'll be just fine.
 

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The best headers for the money in my opinion are stainless power. $700 and they fit great
 

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No matter what header you get or jury rigging you do. Just get away from those tight clearances. The knock sensors on these cars are sensitive AF.
 

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I agree to turn chicken shit into chicken salad. Go with the Steeda motor mounts or dimple the header more to get the proper clearance.
 

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FYI, Ultimate Headers won’t clear Steeda’s g trac brace either.
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