Headers hitting AC

[Driller6262]

Just picked up a 2019 gt pp w/ speed engineering long tube headers and 3” mid pipe. After hearing a rattling noise I found the passenger side hitting the AC line. Is there an easy way to bend the line out of the way or bracket I can buy?

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[mejohn50]

Loosen the engine/transmission mounts and slide the engine to the driver’s side as far as it’ll go.

It still may hit under acceleration. Mine did and I had to install urethane engine mounts, which are terrible.

 

[NGOT8R]

That is a really good photo to show what’s occurring. If it were me, I’d carefully mark off the area on the header that’s contacting the AC line, pull the header, heat it up until it was red hot and squeeze it in a bench vice, to provide a nice clean dimple that looks factory. Once that’s done, reinstall and never have to worry about that problem again.

 

[HKusp]

That is a really good photo to show what’s occurring. If it were me, I’d carefully mark off the area on the header that’s contacting the AC line, pull the header, heat it up until it was red hot and squeeze it in a bench vice, to provide a nice clean dimple that looks factory. Once that’s done, reinstall and never have to worry about that problem again.

Not trying to sound like a dick, but do you know how big a pain in the ass pulling the passenger side header is? It absolutely sucks.

 

[SheepDog]

Just picked up a 2019 gt pp w/ speed engineering long tube headers and 3” mid pipe. After hearing a rattling noise I found the passenger side hitting the AC line. Is there an easy way to bend the line out of the way or bracket I can buy?

Make sure the metal strap/clamp that holds the AC line to the body has been disconnected, and rotated up and out of the way. You might have to remove the battery and the metal plate that separates the battery box and engine bay, to achieve this.

I went as far as to pull the fender liner out of the wheel well,( I was already installing the wiring for my return system anyway) and then used a steel zip tie to go through an empty hole in the fender, to pull the line towards the passenger side. I used a plastic barbed fitting (3/8") to wrap the metal zip tie around to make it tight. The barbed ends prevent it from sliding or vibrating out of the zip tie.

As others mentioned, loosen the two motor mount nuts, then get a long prybar and push between the inner fender in the engine bay and the motor mount and push the engine all the way over to the drivers side as far as possible

 

[NGOT8R]

Not trying to sound like a dick, but do you know how big a pain in the ass pulling the passenger side header is? It absolutely sucks.

I sure do. I’ve done it twice on my Bullitt and it wasn’t that bad to do, but that’s because I removed all the studs first and used the supplied hardware to install my headers. To me it seemed like leaving the studs in would very much make it a royal PITA.

 

[stang17]

I'd check the engine tune to make use knock sensors are turned on. I imagine the previous owner may have been getting a ton of "false knock" and may have had tune adjusted accordingly.

 

[Skye]

As you work through this issue, one thing which might be nice to have/install is some of the insulating material often kept on that A/C line. Even after adjusting for clearance, you'll continue to generate a lot of heat.

 

[LOL WUT]

As previously stated, your best bet and first move should be shifting the motor as far as possible to the drivers side.

The AC line is a common touch point for headers and while you can slightly move the AC line up and to the drivers side, I don’t think you’ll have enough adjustment to get the needed clearance to mitigate contact.

As is, I’d assume your knock sensors are going crazy and pulling a lot of timing.

 

[andrewtac]

I'd pull and use a hammer to massage it slightly. Moving the motor will probably work, but might hit the steering column on the other side. Doing a swap now, marked them with a sharpie before they came out.

 

[Driller6262]

I'd check the engine tune to make use knock sensors are turned on. I imagine the previous owner may have been getting a ton of "false knock" and may have had tune adjusted accordingly.

You have a good point when I first got it it was rattling a lot and still seemed to run pretty good

 

[LethalPerformance]

Loosen the engine/transmission mounts and slide the engine to the driver’s side as far as it’ll go.

It still may hit under acceleration. Mine did and I had to install urethane engine mounts, which are terrible.

This

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