Hardwired AWE Switchpath

[drummerboy]

Just wanted to share, because I dig this so much more than the fob for how clean it is and not having to constantly replace batteries. I figure some others with the AWE unit may want to do something similar.

The switchpath comes with two wireless fobs for controlling the exhaust valves - two buttons for closed/open. Both of my fobs stopped responding very quickly after use, so I opened them up to find a battery that I am was unfamilar with, a tiny little 12V 27A (or A27) battery. I don't really want to be constantly replacing these batteries, so I figured since it's 12V I should just wire the fob into the car.

Had the local RC hobby shop solder 6 leads onto the circuit board for me - 2 for the power and 2 for each of the switches. One fuse tap and a two-way momentary switch later, and the switchpath is hardwired in. Well, sort of. Just the fob/transmmitter is hardwired in to power and uses my own switch instead of the buttons on the board. I may call AWE to inquire about the possibility of hardwiring the receiver to the switch in the future.

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[wingnutt]

Hmmmm, interesting...I assume you can run open valves in 6th gear then?

 

[drummerboy]

Yes, the unit itself just gives you full control over the exhaust valves.

This project/thread is really just overkill, but I love it.

 

[raiderjatt02]

ooooo this looks very interesting. I've already replaced my batteries a few times and it's annoying when they're getting low and I have to hit the button a few times to get the mode to switch. Or having to look for my spare fob to use it. Can you post up some more pics of the process? I'm very interested in this.

And for the switch you used, I'm assuming when you hit the loud/quiet button, it automatically returns back to the center correct? Or is it a toggle switch?

 

[JCSIX13]

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[drummerboy]

ooooo this looks very interesting. I've already replaced my batteries a few times and it's annoying when they're getting low and I have to hit the button a few times to get the mode to switch. Or having to look for my spare fob to use it. Can you post up some more pics of the process? I'm very interested in this.

And for the switch you used, I'm assuming when you hit the loud/quiet button, it automatically returns back to the center correct? Or is it a toggle switch?

Aha! Confirmation that it isn't just me and the batteries drain VERY quickly. We can't let this stand!

I didn't take pictures as I wasn't sure I was going to get this to work, and honestly I thought I was a little crazy and that this was a little overkill. But in the end, it's fantastic, so I wanted to share.

The switch is a little momentary (returns to center) two-way switch, perfect for this application:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WWC99SR/

Fuse tap for power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FB2V542

Here is a diagram of how to wire it:

Notes:

1) I had to experiment with how to wire the switches and had it hooked up every single wrong way possible before finally arriving at the correct method in the image above. My point is I didn't fry it, so don't worry about hooking it up wrong. I was testing it (with the battery) outside of the car before drilling the hole and finalizing the whole thing.

2) I wired the positive to the fuse tap linked above. In the passenger footwell fuse panel, use the very top left 5A fuse. That little 3 prong fuse protects two circuits (21 & 22), and it appears to me that the fuse tap splits those two circuits, so you will need to insert BOTH the original 5A fuse and the little 5A fuse the tap comes with into the fuse tap to have both circuits powered. This is also where my blip gets its power (Xineering's recommended spot).

3) My favorite ground is a 10mm bolt on the firewall right in front of the fuse panel. It has a large washer on it and metal back, perfect for sandwiching a bunch of ground leads from various devices. You can access the bolt more easily by prying down on the blue and grey wire harness/clip to pop it out from its clip and push it out of the way.

4) My RC hobby shop guy was hesitant to try soldering the leads on at first, but I told him I didn't care if he borked it, please just try. It only took him 10-15min, and what he gave me was very sturdy and perfect.

 

[raiderjatt02]

@drummerboy that's perfect. Thanks for the write up. I'm gonna have to try this out. I don't mind soldering myself so that's no big deal. Good thing we have 2 remotes just in case I fuck one of them up

 

[drummerboy]

@drummerboy Good thing we have 2 remotes

Exactly my thought, and if you don't bork the 1st one then you have a spare to keep in the car just in case.

 

[Whitedevil95]

Hey sorry for the random thread hijack. I am about the install a GT350 catback on my GT to go with the rear valance. I was looking at buying this switchpath remote kit to run them. The one thing i cant seem to find is how the control box is actually powered? I see you plug the box into the actuators and then for u guys you put in the anti MIL plugs into the factor plugs. But what powers the box?

 

[drummerboy]

You just plug in the connectors at the control valves IIRC, there's no extra power to tap.

 

[Tank]

Just wanted to share, because I dig this so much more than the fob for how clean it is and not having to constantly replace batteries. I figure some others with the AWE unit may want to do something similar.

The switchpath comes with two wireless fobs for controlling the exhaust valves - two buttons for closed/open. Both of my fobs stopped responding very quickly after use, so I opened them up to find a battery that I am was unfamilar with, a tiny little 12V 27A (or A27) battery. I don't really want to be constantly replacing these batteries, so I figured since it's 12V I should just wire the fob into the car.

Had the local RC hobby shop solder 6 leads onto the circuit board for me - 2 for the power and 2 for each of the switches. One fuse tap and a two-way momentary switch later, and the switchpath is hardwired in. Well, sort of. Just the fob/transmmitter is hardwired in to power and uses my own switch instead of the buttons on the board. I may call AWE to inquire about the possibility of hardwiring the receiver to the switch in the future.

Good post & thread. I’ll link it in the Basics sticky under the How-To section .

 

[raiderjatt02]

Just rediscovered this thread and thought I could add a few pictures from when I followed @drummerboy steps.

Fuse tap installed:

Remote taken apart and wires soldered:

Wrapped up and taped under the center console:

Final location of the switch:

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