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Awesome, glad to hear it. And please do!

Life moves pretty fast. . . . /Bueller I don't doubt that this might have been a more common (than now) frame of mind when this post was made, but it does not take a big imagination (today, and especially in the future) to see that preventing the car from sending its data will indeed protect...

It was evident in the very first tank on this car that it was pulling timing when under load with 91 octane. It's hard to notice it, too, because it only takes a couple knocks, so you barely hear it. At 94 octane I don't hear it knocking any more on the street. Straight 100 on track.

You're a legend. Didn't even notice that was your thread when I came across it. Agreed, MGW will go in when it's time to put in a new clutch, but I don't want to go through all that til then. Would be different if it were just a few bolts from the top like it used to be. Til then I was hoping...

I'd love to know what you find when you go poking around, looking forward to you making a thread then. Especially interested if there appears to be any way to just pull the trim and address the set screw issue (if that is indeed what is happening) from the top vs getting underneath the car and...

Several years ago we had a couple lockout/recall threads. From what I gather, some guys' plastic reverse lockout tubes have physically broken. Nothing on mine is broken, but I can create a reverse lockout issue at will, and posted about this in one of those old threads a long time ago...

It's definitely shot. I have a connection to a recycler who won't charge a disposal fee. I'd be happy to swing by and pick it up. Seriously, though, if you can't bear to live with the scar, don't sweat it - go ahead and replace it with new, because you can sell it VERY easily.

Little round switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QQ21QQS/ Matching momentary: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WWC99SR/

Looks like we are all sharing the clutch switch pain. As for where to ground, there is a very convenient spot - on the firewall in just in front of and above the kickpanel fuse box is a real long, skinny bolt (iirc it's a 1/4" or 5/16" head?) with a gigantic washer on it. I've been sandwiching...

Last time I was out, by the later sessions it began dragging the clutch a bit. I was too preoccupied to pull out the laptop and connect to dial up the % or duration. It would have been nice to have the dials. As a sidenote, these days are six 30min sessions separated by 30min, and it's out in...

+1 Auto-blip can be dialed in on the fly with the knobs +1 Xineering has the pass through plugs to avoid wire taps I can't think of any other real differences 🤷‍♂️

I'd probably go about it something like: Layout blue painters tape on new splitter where the top edge of the tape is where you want the bottom of your letters, and mark the centerline Measure OEM splitter letter distance from the bottom center of S-Y, H-B, and E-L Lay out letters with this...

^^ @NGOT8R nailed it. I typically only notice it when I'm backing in at 3mph and I'm on and off the clutch, but yeah, at slow speeds you'll hear/feel a short clunk when you first push the pedal in.

Oh snap, it surely is you, Doc, they mention you by name here:

I think they got some sweet drone shots of you at the 4:00:45 mark, and seem to just follow along for nearly 20min:

Surprised to not see the active noise cancellation mentioned. 1) Before starting your car, roll your windows down and open your driver door 2) Crank the engine while keeping the door open 3) Wait 5 sec or so for the revs to calm down 4) Now close the door softly and notice that .5sec after...

Must be. My local dealer is stocked to the brim on filters and o-rings. I did grab a couple just in case, even though Ford's price is double what Rock Auto's was.

Also, the recent activity in these threads lead another forum member to ask for assistance in locating the correct fuse on another Ford vehicle, and in that manual it was labeled "Embedded Modem Module" so when looking for the correct fuse, I would search for telematic, modem, tcu, embedded...

Since this is so old and I had to refresh my own memory, here are a couple reminders: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/4g-modem-disabling-instructions.146860/page-12#post-3022165 That top picture shows two orange circles where a guy could look (from underneath the car) to find a couple...

Yes, without the password it will not be able to connect. I have not specifically sought it ought and tested, but I have never noticed any transmissions with Wi-Fi turned off. If it were turned on, I wonder if it would attempt to connect to public networks...