GT350 suspension mods

[Trackaholic]

If the R springs are stiffer, they must also be shorter or the R would have a higher ride height (assuming the mounting positions are the same, which I believe is the case). Might be good to get a set of those first.

Most of the other mods seem to be pretty safe. Basically updating the same "standard" Mustang parts that everyone else is already upgrading.

I would probably only do the caster/camber plates if they were necessary to reach Ford's recommended track settings. Not sure if there is enough adjustment in the standard parts to hit those numbers though.

Looking forward to seeing the results!

-T

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[FPCV8YO]

Just like you want a baseline dyno before the headers and tune, you should have a baseline lap time before tire, wheel & suspension mods.

 

[FPCV8YO]

If the R springs are stiffer, they must also be shorter or the R would have a higher ride height (assuming the mounting positions are the same, which I believe is the case). Might be good to get a set of those first.

Most of the other mods seem to be pretty safe. Basically updating the same "standard" Mustang parts that everyone else is already upgrading.

I would probably only do the caster/camber plates if they were necessary to reach Ford's recommended track settings. Not sure if there is enough adjustment in the standard parts to hit those numbers though.

Looking forward to seeing the results!

-T

But, do the GT350/R require the same mods as the other S550s after all of Ford Performance's re-engineering?

 

[Voodooo]

You don't know. You're making a guess. Period. You might come back with some useful information after-the-fact but let's not pretend you're doing any of this based on any experience (yours or anyone else s at this point).

That said, interested to see how R springs fit, especially depending on the profile of tire (30/35) that you end up with...and definitely wanting to see what the Forgelines look like. (just didn't want to make a 100% negative post, lol).

I never stated I tried it or had info or experience driving it yet.
I bought the 11x19 Forgeline GA1R open lugs and Michelin 305/30ZR19 front and rear. I'll post pics and info when i get them in 5 weeks.

 

[Voodooo]

Rubber bushings are not performance related. Anytime a bushing flexes or moves it's changing the suspension setting. The less the deflection the better. It's not rocket science. Have any of you really looked under your cars and looked at the suspension closely? There are still rubber bushings and mounts. The IRS cradle is still mounted in rubber mounts, the lower H arm (control arm) still has a large rubber bushing and a small toe link rubber bushing. The vertical links are soft rubber mounted. All that adds up to deflection and movement to the toe and camber. I'm not concerned with noise inside the car.

 

[Voodooo]

Just like you want a baseline dyno before the headers and tune, you should have a baseline lap time before tire, wheel & suspension mods.

By the way I did baseline dyno my car Friday.
464rwhp 379rwtq. Also 176 mph in 5th gear

 

[65sohc]

I think it is safe to assume you will be the first, and likely one of the few, to travel down this path. On the other hand I see you already have the JLT CAI and Lund Flex Fuel tune which is something I would strongly consider. Please give us your impressions. The tune has been out for a while yet I haven't heard anyone talking about it.

 

[Voodooo]

I think it is safe to assume you will be the first, and likely one of the few, to travel down this path. On the other hand I see you already have the JLT CAI and Lund Flex Fuel tune which is something I would strongly consider. Please give us your impressions. The tune has been out for a while yet I haven't heard anyone talking about it.

I baseline dynoed it 100% bone stock on 93 Sunoco. I have not yet installed the parts I have listed because I'm looking to see what gains the headers and off road pipes do with stock active mufflers. My ARH are 1-7/8" long primary headers with a 3" merge collector, with 3" off road X pipes. Once I dyno it with the headers on 93 octane, I will install my JLT and Lund E85 tune. I also have a few other fine tuning things I'd like to try to see if any gains can be had.

 

[mattlqx]

Also 176 mph in 5th gear

It's amazing how fast you can go with no wind resistance.

 

[Voodooo]

It's amazing how fast you can go with no wind resistance.

Lol. Yep.

 

[MaxWW]

Just ignore others, tinker with your own car, you spent the money not them. If it works for you, great.

Unless people are going to buy parts for this man to make changes to his car, they shouldn't give him a hard time.

DITTO! Modifying cars is not for me personally...But if it makes you happy, do it twice! To each his own and enjoy the car as you will 'cause they are luxury/ entertainment items for all of us. Enjoy it as best you can, anyway you can, AND as often as you can!

Max

 

[nastang87xx]

I still stand by not doing it. The spring, in fact all springs regardless of the car, were engineered with the WHOLE coil in mind to perform a job. I don't care if your car is an '86 Civic or a '17 R8, I can't and won't support it. Aftermarket bushings or motor mounts or what have you were engineered to work with the entire system along side what it is you are replacing. Cutting springs is altering a system component in a way it was not designed to. Aftermarket parts that have been re-engineered were ENGINEERED and DESIGNED to alter the system component for improved performance or functionality. But like the others have said, it's not my car. But I would hate for someone to do something to their car that ultimately they ended up dreadfully regretting or even worse, if the outcome had unforeseen consequences that were greater than anticipated.


I take my leave on this one.

 

[Voodooo]

I still stand by not doing it. The spring, in fact all springs regardless of the car, were engineered with the WHOLE coil in mind to perform a job. I don't care if your car is an '86 Civic or a '17 R8, I can't and won't support it. Aftermarket bushings or motor mounts or what have you were engineered to work with the entire system along side what it is you are replacing. Cutting springs is altering a system component in a way it was not designed to. Aftermarket parts that have been re-engineered were ENGINEERED and DESIGNED to alter the system component for improved performance or functionality. But like the others have said, it's not my car. But I would hate for someone to do something to their car that ultimately they ended up dreadfully regretting or even worse, if the outcome had unforeseen consequences that were greater than anticipated.


I take my leave on this one.

I'm not totally against what you say. But I do not do hack work. I'm not some back yard toothless 1/2 ass. Their are 3 spring manufacturing businesses here in Toledo Ohio that make springs. My dad worked at one of those places years ago. It's a coil spring. It's wound to a specific rate, but it's still a full coil. I agree. But I'd still like to get R springs. You can keep your rubber bushing if you like, but mine are going into the trash. If you feel so strong against modified vehicles then be happy with what you have stock. But everything has room for improvement. Not everything is engineered for everyone. If that were the case, their would be no aftermarket suppliers period. I highly doubt that your car is bone stock. Example: the stock shifter in the GT is a mess to some and ok for others. Some like it some don't. It was engineered for daily driving, and quiet operations not performance minded people. So the aftermarket fixes the issues. I'm not concerned with vibrations or squeaks in the suspension from bearings or bushings. I guess you'd go nuts in the 8 second 92lx I had. It was far from stock.

 

[BMR Tech]

Good stuff Voodoo!

I am always happy to see people acquire specialty cars and modify them to their liking. Making the car how YOU want it, with YOUR money is the most satisfying part of our beloved hobby my friend.

As for your mod list, it looks pretty nice. My only suggestion would be to look into our BK048 Delrin Cradle bushings in favor of the FRPP Billet pieces. Our design features more friction/surface area on the top mounts where the bushing meets the chassis - which helps reduce cradle shift more while alleviating the load on the (4) mounting bolts. ;) Also, the Delrin is typically better for NVH control.

Anxious to see your results!

 

[BMR Tech]

I also wanted to tell you that you are correct in your thoughts about the springs.

If you cut the spring with a blade, you should be fine. There is nothing wrong with simply making a linear rate spring slightly shorter. It should still feature the same load at the given installed height, +/- 2% or so.

The rear springs are pretty simple and straight forward. The front springs, they are a little more tricky due to their coil design. I am not so sure cutting those is the best path, I would rather see you grab a set of aftermarket springs in the 200-220lb/in range - OR, 300lb/in like our Handling Version, if you plan to install aftermarket adjustable front dampers.

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