GT vs GT350, Thoughts?

[1MeanZ]

If you want to race then get the boosted GT.

I assume you mean drag race? I would NOT expect reliability and trouble free operation out of a boosted stock bottom end coyote on a road course for 20+ minute sessions...

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[stanger1]

Some Boosted applications on a Road Racing Track may have too much power, so some may drop a pulley size or two, to decrease HP, less heat build up and to hook better.
If the cars are set up correctly, I would think the boosted cars can be very reliable. But without differential coolers and proper transmission coolers and brake ducts, those may be the first heat issues that show up.
I think the reliable of the 2nd and 3rd generations of the Coyotes have proven that they can handle quite a bit of power. IMO

 

[dpAtlanta]

To answer your question. A boosted GT will have way more HP and will be a very fast car. They will last long as long as they are tuned and maintained properly. You can always mod the suspension so it will handle better.

You could buy a used GT350 for less than buying a GT and modifying it to make it handle better. The cost to turn a GT into a GT350 suspension-wise would be very costly!

 

[RoushCharger]

Consider a low mile Roush Stage 3 if you want it supercharged. You’d be surprised how much they have depreciated by now if you get one 3 or 4 years old or more... Easily obtainable

 

[4V Mayhem]

I assume you mean drag race? I would NOT expect reliability and trouble free operation out of a boosted stock bottom end coyote on a road course for 20+ minute sessions...

And if you knew how to build one properly then that wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Johnnydarkgt350]

Weighing buying a modified 15-17 GT w/PP vs a 16 or 17 GT350, what are the important considerations?

If I go the GT route, I'm considering buying one already boosted

Aside from the $$ difference, what are the thoughts?
Thinking about reliability, depreciation/resell value, fun factor when driving... etc.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

After owning 26 mustangs, I’ve made some fun mistakes that were costly but fun . Wise of you to ask these experts with experience here . I supercharged my 96 cobra; fun and fast , But no faster at Buttonwillow as my brakes we’re not up to the end of straightaway speed and my tires were not up to hooking up coming out of a turn when it went into boost. Then I cracked 6 piston rings And had to install a new engine and did not put the supercharger back on. A limited production highly engineered Shelby GT 350 is super fast in acceleration breaking and handling. Done by Ford Performance with their engineers and their budget . From better brakes, transmission wheels etc. A modified mustang may not have been built to take what you put on it without it stressing or breaking. Then there is the resale . if you purchase a low mile gt350. ,in five years from now the way it is holding value it may not cost you anything to own . Your GT, because it is a mass production vehicle , it will depreciate like other GT‘s and worse because it is modified. I’ve been driving free mustangs for many years now. Can I suggest a 17-16 GT350R?? I just ad octane booster to 98-100 octane and up my 525 HP by 25 for just a few dollars and it doesn’t void my warranty.

 

[jbfj]

After owning 26 mustangs, I’ve made some fun mistakes that were costly but fun . Wise of you to ask these experts with experience here . I supercharged my 96 cobra; fun and fast , But no faster at Buttonwillow as my brakes we’re not up to the end of straightaway speed and my tires were not up to hooking up coming out of a turn when it went into boost. Then I cracked 6 piston rings And had to install a new engine and did not put the supercharger back on. A limited production highly engineered Shelby GT 350 is super fast in acceleration breaking and handling. Done by Ford Performance with their engineers and their budget . From better brakes, transmission wheels etc. A modified mustang may not have been built to take what you put on it without it stressing or breaking. Then there is the resale . if you purchase a low mile gt350. ,in five years from now the way it is holding value it may not cost you anything to own . Your GT, because it is a mass production vehicle , it will depreciate like other GT‘s and worse because it is modified. I’ve been driving free mustangs for many years now. Can I suggest a 17-16 GT350R?? I just ad octane booster to 98-100 octane and up my 525 HP by 25 for just a few dollars and it doesn’t void my warranty.

Thanks for the insight thats helpful. Would love a GT350R but unfortunately my budget is the low 40s. Hoping to find a 350 that either has some miles on it or has past cosmetic damage to bring it down to my range.

 

[Andy13186]

Transmission choice is the only consideration IMO. If you want manual go with gt350 easyy unless you want to wait for a Mach 1, which I actually would prefer over a gt350 I think, just dont go with the mt82. The mach 1 has the tremec manual. If you want automatic and want to drag race, obviously youll have to go GT or mach 1. Id say the GT is the better platform for heavy modification too and drag racing even over the gt500.

 

[1MeanZ]

You could buy a used GT350 for less than buying a GT and modifying it to make it handle better. The cost to turn a GT into a GT350 suspension-wise would be very costly!

Suspension-wise I think you can get pretty darn close with the help of companies like Steeda. Close enough that it's a driver's race anyway.

And if you knew how to build one properly then that wouldn't be an issue.

you're assuming a lot and you don't know me at all. i'm sure the rest of us would like to continue interacting as adults, so you should take your insults and go play somewhere else.

 

[Mikepol2]

I considered both and think where you intend to drive it should be one of your top considerations. When I drove the Shelby, I didn’t care for the very tight clutch window and the fact that you really need to rev it out to experience the best of the engine. Because most of my driving is on roads with speed limits of no more than about 50 mph, and because I never intended to track it, I bought the GT, installed 4.09’s, will go E85 this summer and am still happy with the decision 3 yrs later. If I had planned on tracking it the GT350 would have been a no brainer.

 

[Ruby_Ruby19]

If you want something to hold on to to hand down, or build value a nice low mileage GT350 would be a good choice.

The GT350 if you are going to leave it stock-ish and have a nice track weapon.

GT with the 10 speed if you want a 1/4 mile or roll racing car.

GT if you want forced induction - hands down the GT is the better option for this route.

I would keep in mind, the GT350 will outperform a GT very easily around a track. You'd have to invest loads of money into brakes, tires, suspension, and if you just like spirited drives on twisty back roads the GT350 is going to be a far superior car. Just my thoughts

 

[4V Mayhem]

you're assuming a lot and you don't know me at all. i'm sure the rest of us would like to continue interacting as adults, so you should take your insults and go play somewhere else.

You're the one who made the assumption in your comment. I assumed nothing. I simply said that if you knew how to build one properly then those things you were worried about wouldn't be an issue. It wasn't an insult. It was a statement. But I'll say it differently so as to avoid any confusion. If you know how to build a Mustang properly, then you will have no troubles with a boosted stock bottom end Coyote on a 20 minute session. So your comment was unnecessary.

 

[4V Mayhem]

You could buy a used GT350 for less than buying a GT and modifying it to make it handle better. The cost to turn a GT into a GT350 suspension-wise would be very costly!

I never said anything about "turning it into a GT350 suspension-wise". I said he could make it handle better. Which would be very simple and inexpensive. Is it not?

 

[1MeanZ]

You're the one who made the assumption in your comment. I assumed nothing. I simply said that if you knew how to build one properly then those things you were worried about wouldn't be an issue. It wasn't an insult. It was a statement. But I'll say it differently so as to avoid any confusion. If you know how to build a Mustang properly, then you will have no troubles with a boosted stock bottom end Coyote on a 20 minute session. So your comment was unnecessary.

Well then please do bless the rest of us with your vast knowledge! We all want to know how to make a boosted stock bottom end Coyote last a 20 minute track session!

Most of us already know the answer. It involves a conservative tune, possibly a larger pully and at least PP1 cooling. Bonus if you can run E85. I still would not run a blown car if I was going to regularly track the car, no matter how Coyote illiterate you think I am.

 

[WildHorse]

A car that is stock is worth more and is going to be more reliable.

The second half of that statement is complete BS.

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