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Gen 2 timing question

KingKona

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You really think that any of those manufacturers are doing what is "Best" for your engine? They are in the business of making money, which includes building products that don't last forever, so that you keep buying more of them. Best practice, and "well, Ford doesn't do it so it must be good" are not the same thing.

Why did you replace all those parts on your car with aftermarket stuff if what Ford designed and installed was already the best of the best?
Yes. Every car manufacturer on the planet desperately wants their engines to implode so customers buy more. Because there's no such thing as warranties.

But, it's not like not priming an engine isn't the exact same thing as your car sitting for a few days and then being started. Like we all do all the time.

At least there's that.
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K4fxd

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Since you still have it apart you should replace the tensioners with the Boss 302 version. These are spring loaded along with using oil for tension.
 

SheepDog

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Yes. Every car manufacturer on the planet desperately wants their engines to implode so customers buy more. Because there's no such thing as warranties.

But, it's not like not priming an engine isn't the exact same thing as your car sitting for a few days and then being started. Like we all do all the time.

At least there's that.
No, it isn't the same because your engine while sitting in your garage for 2 days is sealed, and has an oil filter on it, with an anti-drain back valve which was previously ran and lubricated. A motor that has been completely torn down, with no oil in the sump, in the oil pump, or on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners etc. has no oil at all.
 

KingKona

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No, it isn't the same because your engine while sitting in your garage for 2 days is sealed, and has an oil filter on it, with an anti-drain back valve which was previously ran and lubricated. A motor that has been completely torn down, with no oil in the sump, in the oil pump, or on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners etc. has no oil at all.
A motor that has sat for hours, much less days, has all the oil in the sump and filter. Nothing in the pump, on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners, etc. It ALL drains down into the pan, and sitting in the filter.

This is almost every time you start your engine, and it's where 95% of wear happens.

A newly built engine, will have a thick pasty grease called assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces. Then you add in the oil, and pre-fill the filter if you'd like. "Priming" would actually wash away some or all of thst assembly lube. So it's actually much better to NOT prime a newly built engine.

So.........you're as completely wrong as possible. 180 degrees from facts and reality.
 

SheepDog

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A motor that has sat for hours, much less days, has all the oil in the sump and filter. Nothing in the pump, on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners, etc. It ALL drains down into the pan, and sitting in the filter.

This is almost every time you start your engine, and it's where 95% of wear happens.

A newly built engine, will have a thick pasty grease called assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces. Then you add in the oil, and pre-fill the filter if you'd like. "Priming" would actually wash away some or all of thst assembly lube. So it's actually much better to NOT prime a newly built engine.

So.........you're as completely wrong as possible. 180 degrees from facts and reality.
Do explain to the audience how assembly lube makes its way into the timing chain tensioners, lifters, cam phasers. Again, MMR and other engine builders all prime a dry motor, but I guess you know more than they do.
 

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80FoxCoupe

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@beefcake @80FoxCoupe @engineermike @LethalPerformance What say you on this topic? Is it best practice to prime a newly assembled engine as MMR and other engine builders do, or is it completely unnecessary as @KingKona states.
On a fresh engine I pre-lube via the oil pressure sending unit. Usually do 4qts like that, then pour an additional 4qts in the pan. That way the galley feeding lash adjusters/cams, all 4 tensioners, phasers and bearings get oil immediately.
 

KingKona

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Do explain to the audience how assembly lube makes its way into the timing chain tensioners, lifters, cam phasers. Again, MMR and other engine builders all prime a dry motor, but I guess you know more than they do.
I never said it did.

But I still can't figure how you're unable to process that every single engine in every car ever built goes without "priming" as it rolls off the assembly line, and it's also no different than starting an engine after it's sat for a few hours.

You yourself have started your car without oil in the oil pump, on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners, etc. virtually every time you've started your car.

This "priming" crap is an automotive nerd fad, just like many that have come and gone. It's based on incorrect, but popular beliefs, and stupidity. It's placating the moronic masses.
 

SheepDog

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I never said it did.

But I still can't figure how you're unable to process that every single engine in every car ever built goes without "priming" as it rolls off the assembly line, and it's also no different than starting an engine after it's sat for a few hours.

You yourself have started your car without oil in the oil pump, on the bearings, lifters, cam phasers, tensioners, etc. virtually every time you've started your car.

This "priming" crap is an automotive nerd fad, just like many that have come and gone. It's based on incorrect, but popular beliefs, and stupidity. It's placating the moronic masses.
We aren't talking about assembly line "good enough" procedures. OP built his motor at home, by himself, and obviously wants to know what is best for his motor. We are talking about a motor that has been completely re-built, and best practices for it. Seems to me that you are the one drinking the "Ford is God" Kool-Aid. Also, your claim that manufacturers do not prime their motors in some fashion is purely anecdotal. I don't know if they do, and neither do you.
 

engineermike

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I’ve always pre-lubed and will continue to do so. However, the coyote installation manual from ford doesn’t appear to include that step.
 

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80FoxCoupe

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SheepDog

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So all these guys are wrong, right?
 

beefcake

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i do new chains every year, i do new crank sprocket every year, tensioners every 2-3 years, guides every 2 - 3 years.

with the stress on these engines, i replace them on a regular basis, espeicllay when running them hard
 

K4fxd

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i do new chains every year, i do new crank sprocket every year, tensioners every 2-3 years, guides every 2 - 3 years.
Would be nice to have a gear drive for these.....
 

beefcake

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Would be nice to have a gear drive for these.....
you can do a gear drive on anything.

our 2011 was a gear drive setup

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