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Gen2 coyote phaser/timing questions

Hydraulick

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Hi all,

I have a 2017 gt that at 110k miles experienced phaser issues and timing chain rattle. I opened it up and replaced the chains, guides, and phasers about a year ago, I stupidly did not replace the tensioners as I was sent the incorrect ones and needed the car back, phasers was the reason I opened it. That which resolved most issues but the rattle persisted and actually was worse after. About 10k miles later the rattle is so bad I have opened it up again to take a look. At first check of the chains with the front cover off, one side of passenger side chain was extremely tight and the other side I could easily lift it off the guide a millimeter or two and make a tapping noise with it against the guide(possibly the 2k rattle?). I know the tensioners are oil pressure controlled but that still doesn't seem right to me? Engine was in random orientation at that time.

I honestly forget where I got the timing kit I used, it was supposedly OEM, possibly American muscles website it was somewhere i thought reputable at the time. I am going to replace the chains guides and tensioners and ensure exact up to date oem part numbers this time but have a few questions.

1) I read they updated the tensioners and possibly phasers at some point for the gen2, but after searching I can't find info on this. Does anyone know if this is true and if so have current up to date oem part numbers I should be using for phasers and tensioners?

2) With the plugs out(cams and chains in) the engine is pretty tough to turn over. The ford crankshaft tool would be nowhere near enough. I have to put the crank pully on and use a large strap wrench to turn it by hand(don't want to use the crankbolt doesnt seem like a good idea). Even this I had to put gloves on and use two hands on it. It hits areas of resistance that get much harder to turn and areas of ease which makes sense with the chains and cams in but i still felt like it should be eaiser with the plugs out. Is this normal or an indication of a problem?

3) There isn't an oil pressure guage in this car, is there a process to add one? Need eyes on this going forward

4) Should I change oil pump or opg's while in there if it's stock and no plans to mod?

Any other advice?

Btw fwiw I'm pretty sure this is the 2k rattle(not the ratcheting noise on gen 3 or BBQ tick). It was 2k rattle sound that progressed to the point where it sounds like a bb is being shaken around in an empty can. So loud I had to stop driving it and open it up.

Nothing loose or anything obvious I did wrong on the install 10k miles ago so far but is certainly possible.

Thanks for any help here!
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OP

Hydraulick

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Phasers in there now are pns FR3E-6C524-CC (x2)
FR3E-6C525-BB (x2)

Imprinted on them.

Tensioners are FoMoCo
Pns are tough to read but believe its: 31221B 1885 (x2)

Guides
FoMoCo
CR3E-6k255-AA I believe for the Guides on the tensioner. Guides not on the tensioner are tough to read but they came as a set and also have FoMoCo on them.
 
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Hydraulick

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Driver side tensioner I can compress all the way down, easily by hand. Ratcheting mechanism pushes down with it doesnt stay extended. Passenger side tensioner i can't push down at all. These are ratcheting tensioners so i assume driver side tensioner is bad here. Higher rpms is higher pressure so rattle goes away, and is why it's prominent at 2k rpm?

Let me know what you all think here, thanks
 
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NightmareMoon

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Aas far as OP gears, yes, I’d be prepared to replace the entire oil pump assembly. My 98k mile gen2 5.0 (lots of autocross and more than a few days at the track) and the oil pump gears were pretty chewed up, both the gears and the housing. I should have serviced them a long time ago.
 
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Hydraulick

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Thanks, I'll pull the oil pump out tommorrow and update. Reason why one tensioner compresses and other doesn't in my previous post is they have a 1 way oil flow valve at the bottom of the piston. The one i could compress was upside down/driver side and was empty of oil just from sitting. Passenger side one had oil in it and the 1 way valve wouldn't release it easily. Not sure why it didn't shoot out the tip of the tensioner piston, is some kind of check valve inside the piston tip there though.

Ratcheting mechanism on one does seem to release if you wiggle it.

Just spent a chunk of time categorizing the noises these cars make on post 100 of the below link, including a vid of my severe 2k rattle:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ypewriter-bbq-tick.192171/page-7#post-4117133

Personally believe the 2k rattle is chain noise, will update once I replace tensioners.
 

khanks

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Thanks, I'll pull the oil pump out tommorrow and update. Reason why one tensioner compresses and other doesn't in my previous post is they have a 1 way oil flow valve at the bottom of the piston. The one i could compress was upside down/driver side and was empty of oil just from sitting. Passenger side one had oil in it and the 1 way valve wouldn't release it easily. Not sure why it didn't shoot out the tip of the tensioner piston, is some kind of check valve inside the piston tip there though.

Ratcheting mechanism on one does seem to release if you wiggle it.

Just spent a chunk of time categorizing the noises these cars make on post 100 of the below link, including a vid of my severe 2k rattle:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ypewriter-bbq-tick.192171/page-7#post-4117133

Personally believe the 2k rattle is chain noise, will update once I replace tensioners.
Did you ever find the solution?
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