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Garage lift?

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doodguy

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Thank you for sharing your knowledge Norm,

This is the exact reason I went with the quick jack; no bolts required.

It's not just about the weight. It is also about the fact that because the weight is applied at some distance away from the posts, it is trying to
bend the posts. This puts a bending moment at the base plate (even though there is a top bar tying the two posts together, which certainly improves the situation). A poorly spotted vehicle will try to tip the posts over (think front to back here), and the top bar does not help cover for this situation.

Bending moments at the base plate (both side to side and front to back, combined) will try to pry one or more of the anchor bolts out of the concrete, leveraging about the opposite side of the floor plate (much like the way you use a claw hammer to pull a nail out of a block of wood). This in turn pulls UP on the concrete around these bolts. A big, wide base plate is a good thing here, and getting the CG of the vehicle being lifted as close as possible to being directly between the two posts is very important.

I think we can safely assume that the lift mfr has spaced his anchor bolt holes appropriately - for sale to and use by others I can't imagine a review by a registered professional engineer not being required.

I did see that lift's specs page . . . I'd probably feel comfortable enough with 4" of 3000 psi concrete for lifting a Mustang, maybe not so much for lifting something out near the claimed 10,000 lb capacity (I'd sure be checking that top bar for bends, buckles, cracks, etc., first - I've seen them visibly bent in a dealership's shop and removed from service, just sitting there unusable until the shop was re-arranged and a few new lifts purchased). But I'd feel even better with another inch and another thousand psi . . .

I'm trying to educate here, not scare folks away.


Norm
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kz

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So speaking of this - coincidentally have a meeting with builder of the new house today. Was thinking about putting a lift in the garage - what thickness of concrete in there should I be talking to him about ?

No idea what lift it's going to be, it'll be a while till I get it - it will be large enough to lift either of the Mustangs though. Can anybody help ?
 

908ssp

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My garage ceiling is only 8 foot high but the hoist still makes working under it vastly easier. I had to modify the arms so they would go under the car once lowered and I added a bit to the base for a wider foot print. I also had to flatten out the cable cover so it was easier to roll my seat over. Speaking of seat I made a reclining chair on wheels with trays on both sides for tools and stuff. This makes working under the car and over your head doable.

 

Syracuse315

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No idea what lift it's going to be, it'll be a while till I get it - it will be large enough to lift either of the Mustangs though. Can anybody help ?
5000 psi, 8" thick slab, 1/2" rebar 2" O.C. should cover you :headbonk:

In all seriousness, he'll probably have some expertise putting similar systems in. That, or you can show him a few lift systems and he can install to meet the more stringent of the requirements. Concrete is like $90-100 per cubic yard (not including labor), not a big deal to go a bit bigger.
 

shobbs007

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Thank you for sharing your knowledge Norm,

This is the exact reason I went with the quick jack; no bolts required.
Let us know how that QuickJack works. :thumbsup:
 

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Catfish

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If you have thin, unlevel, or cracked concrete just do like I did in my old shop. I had three pillars poured to match the height of the highest corner. Just cut a hole in the floor and dig down 18". I installed a 14,000 pound bendpak all by myself once the concrete cured.

 

Norm Peterson

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This ↑↑↑.

It's a valid solution as long as the areas of the concrete pillars (as seen looking down) are large enough to develop the full concrete strength intended by the mfr's calcs. I think I've seen suggested dimensions somewhere before but I don't remember where.

Norm
 

50hhh

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So speaking of this - coincidentally have a meeting with builder of the new house today. Was thinking about putting a lift in the garage - what thickness of concrete in there should I be talking to him about ?

No idea what lift it's going to be, it'll be a while till I get it - it will be large enough to lift either of the Mustangs though. Can anybody help ?
Some of these lifts say 4inch 3000psi concrete is ok and it probably is...but honestly I'd want 8 inch especially if you plan to lift trucks
 

Excelerater

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I am lucky enough to have my own lift and a ceiling tall enough to handle it..
I can suggest first if your a DIYer to look into a used one from your local Lift installer and repair guy...
By mistake I ran into this dood who does this for a living and he sold me a 3 year old made in USA asymmetrical 9000 lb lift ,he installed it and wired it for 1600 bucks
and its been the best investment ever..Having a lift rocks !
So before you go look for some chinese unit go search out a few deals,they are out there
 

Russ125

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I went with one of these... http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift

Can only raise it about 80% of the way while it's in the garage due to the door opener hanging down, but it has the advantage of being mobile (somewhat anyway, weighs 1000lbs and is a workout to move) and I can push it out into the driveway on a nice day and run it all the way up.
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