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2019 No Lift Shift ?

N4G.5.0

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This is my first post, I was just wondering if 2018+ have the NLS as stated in the ford brochure ? I can’t seem to find a solid answer, not much talk about it. I have a 2019 Mustang GT PP1 300A I got it a month ago would it have the “No Lift Shift” Feature ?

Thank you.
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pthomas11b

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I would imagine the quickest way to find out is try it. Granted I have a 2016 that isn't equipped with that feature but correct me if I'm wrong, yours being a 2019 should have downshift rev matching which can be enabled in the track apps or vehicle settings menu. Maybe it can be turned on or off there. But go drive it and while getting on the highway floor the throttle and try just once keeping it held down while depressing the clutch to grab the next gear. If it bounces the rev limiter then you know it doesn't have it or it's not enabled. Now I say that with caution as doing so repeatedly, hitting the limiter, is not good for various reasons but you'll have an answer haha.
 

Torched10

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StangTime

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I've tried this a handful of times on my '18, but my brain is programmed and it just won't let it happen. When my left foot goes down, my right foot magically raises. It just won't happen any other way.
Now that my car is broken in I have been trying to take it higher little by little. I haven't done any red-line shifts as of yet. Only poked it to 5-6K rpms. The car shifts differently when you get it above 4K. I can't put my finger on it. I can shift very well up to around 4K but beyond that things get rough. When winding it up during 1-2 shifts I get a scraping sound that I can feel it in the clutch pedal as I am letting off the clutch. 2-3 shifts I feel the car jerk as I try to let out the clutch quickly. Once I'm in third I am already going over the speed limit so I just row through the remaining gears. I don't don't know if it's my technique or maybe this "no-lift-shift" feature is fighting with me. I'll have to try this by keeping my foot on the gas and see how that goes.
 

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Now that my car is broken in I have been trying to take it higher little by little. I haven't done any red-line shifts as of yet. Only poked it to 5-6K rpms. The car shifts differently when you get it above 4K. I can't put my finger on it. I can shift very well up to around 4K but beyond that things get rough. When winding it up during 1-2 shifts I get a scraping sound that I can feel it in the clutch pedal as I am letting off the clutch. 2-3 shifts I feel the car jerk as I try to let out the clutch quickly. Once I'm in third I am already going over the speed limit so I just row through the remaining gears. I don't don't know if it's my technique or maybe this "no-lift-shift" feature is fighting with me. I'll have to try this by keeping my foot on the gas and see how that goes.
My experience is just the opposite. If I shift with moderate acceleration between 3-5K, this is when the clutch seems most quirky to me. Anywhere above that to redline, I just dump the clutch and the shifts are smooth and quick. I've been fortunate I guess as I've never experienced the "lockout" that others have mentioned in the upper rpm range shifts.
 

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I would imagine the quickest way to find out is try it. Granted I have a 2016 that isn't equipped with that feature but correct me if I'm wrong, yours being a 2019 should have downshift rev matching which can be enabled in the track apps or vehicle settings menu. Maybe it can be turned on or off there. But go drive it and while getting on the highway floor the throttle and try just once keeping it held down while depressing the clutch to grab the next gear. If it bounces the rev limiter then you know it doesn't have it or it's not enabled. Now I say that with caution as doing so repeatedly, hitting the limiter, is not good for various reasons but you'll have an answer haha.
And please post the dealer and VIN so nobody here ends up buying that car. LoL
 

StangTime

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Found this:
NoLiftShift.PNG

Says "all models" but the wording reads like it is only meant for Ecoboost models.
 

Ghost50

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Found this:
NoLiftShift.PNG

Says "all models" but the wording reads like it is only meant for Ecoboost models.
Hmmm...

I’ve been hesitant to try it because I’m worried I’ll smoke my clutch or trans. I used to powershift my previous Mustangs all the time. And the only time I’d do it is on the track and I don’t want to go into the wall bc I’ve got the nannies turned off
 

StangTime

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Hmmm...

I’ve been hesitant to try it because I’m worried I’ll smoke my clutch or trans. I used to powershift my previous Mustangs all the time. And the only time I’d do it is on the track and I don’t want to go into the wall bc I’ve got the nannies turned off
What about doing a 4-5 shift on the freeway? If you just hold the gas pedal in a decent amount and then press the clutch in, do the RPM's suddenly jump higher or stay the same? You can abort the shift if you see the RPM's shoot up. I'm going to try it next time I have the Stang out.
 

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pthomas11b

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And please post the dealer and VIN so nobody here ends up buying that car. LoL
Yea that's definitely not an ideal situation not knowing exactly what the car will or won't do..... But hey that's how we learn right haha!

On a more serious note as for what the others describe with difficulty shifting in the upper rpms and what not. I experienced 2nd gear lockout all the damn time when I first bought my gt. It was bone stock. Problem I've seen referred too by more knowledgeable folks with Ford backgrounds. Seem to think it's a clutch disengagement issue at high rpm with the factory stuff. We all know with little research that because of the design Ford used in mounting the shifter farther back to obtain better driving positions they added mounts and linkage to put it all together. Hence why the drivetrain is moving around while the shifter body itself is bolted/ riding in the sloppy bushings makes shifting wiith accuracy a pain.

Long story short what I and I'm sure others have done. I installed an MGW x spec shifter. Along with welll before hand a steeda clutch spring and perch to replace the factory one assisting the clutch pedal under the dash. Now those 2 items for me totally changed the confidence and accuracy I have when shifting the mt82. So I couldn't recommend them high enough if you are in a position to afford them when compared too the alternatives.

Coming from owning every Japanese make in a manual and also American stuff of the GM variety. I'll say I still love the notchy feeling of a direct topm shifter in a t56. It's hard to beat when you enjoy mechanical positive engagement of gears. But this combo gets damn close and allbeit smoother overall compared to others.

Past that driving the car and gaining experience playing around while paying close attention to what and where rpms are and gear you are in vs what you are going to ultimately beat a wallet full of cash.
 

Ghost50

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What about doing a 4-5 shift on the freeway? If you just hold the gas pedal in a decent amount and then press the clutch in, do the RPM's suddenly jump higher or stay the same? You can abort the shift if you see the RPM's shoot up. I'm going to try it next time I have the Stang out.
Good idea. I’ll try it later today when I take it out to shine it up
 

Sivi70980

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Now that my car is broken in I have been trying to take it higher little by little. I haven't done any red-line shifts as of yet. Only poked it to 5-6K rpms. The car shifts differently when you get it above 4K. I can't put my finger on it. I can shift very well up to around 4K but beyond that things get rough. When winding it up during 1-2 shifts I get a scraping sound that I can feel it in the clutch pedal as I am letting off the clutch. 2-3 shifts I feel the car jerk as I try to let out the clutch quickly. Once I'm in third I am already going over the speed limit so I just row through the remaining gears. I don't don't know if it's my technique or maybe this "no-lift-shift" feature is fighting with me. I'll have to try this by keeping my foot on the gas and see how that goes.
I also have this issue. It's all about timing, the auto rev match holds RPMs on an upshift too so if you're too fast they don't drop to where you want them. Been driving a stick for years and my test drive felt like I didn't know what I was doing because of this. When I toggle rev matching off, it's very familiar and works perfectly but then you have to do your own rev matching downshifts witch is fun too. As far as the clutch sound, I only get that when I'm in a range that's just before redline. If I shift at redline the car takes it and tires chirp but if it's 500ish below I get the clutch grinding sound you speak of. I will also try this no lift shift thing on my way home tonight.
 

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My 18 GT doesn’t have NLS, I’m used to it from my FRS that was tuned and my ST. I’ve made a few posts on here and on the FB pages. Alex from Lund even sent me a file that had WOT tune on it but didn’t work. I installed a N2MB WOT box and can NLS now. I finally beat on it enough that the 3-4 shift work went for the early model 18’s. Got new trans and had a mantic installed. I haven’t got around to getting on it yet to see if the clutch lockout I had over 6k is gone yet or not. Good I hope so. Only thing I hate about my car is the trans.
 

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around 4K but beyond that things get rough. When winding it up during 1-2 shifts I get a scraping sound that I can feel it in the clutch pedal as I am letting off the clutch. 2-3 shifts I feel the car jerk as I try to let out the clutch quickly.
My car has the same "clutch grind" sound. I've read its due to the car having a twin disc clutch.

If I do a hard pull and shift past 7k its smooth as butter.

If I half ass it and shift between 5-6k I get the grind sound if I try to shift to hard/fast/harsh.

Really just seems to come down to technique and being smooth on the clutch.
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