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Front Rotor Change

Bahndvr

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When do you change front rotors? What indicators to look for?

I have the Girodisc
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NightmareMoon

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Minimum thickness.
Excessive cracking (esp cracks that run the width or cracks at the edge).. Some amount of cracking is normal tho.
 
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Bahndvr

Bahndvr

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My slotted rotors are not very slotted anymore. I will take some measurements this weekend.
 

Apex Wheels

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My slotted rotors are not very slotted anymore. I will take some measurements this weekend.
Post a couple pictures, usually it's easiest to estimate wear with a quick visual inspection for small cracks and such. As mentioned above, lots of small cracks around the center of the rotor face are normal when driven hard. It's when those cracks extend to the lip (or through the lip) where you need to be mindful of them and ready to replace.

Different pads also treat rotors differently. Some of the cheaper race pads are very abrasive and thus eat up the rotors much quicker than some others will. It really ends up costing more in the long run, since you have to replace rotors more often ($$).

- Cory
 

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Bahndvr

Bahndvr

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Weather was nice today so I was able to work on the Stang.
Giro Front Face.webp
Giro Front Side.jpg
 

TeeLew

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Iron discs (used on track) generally lose effectiveness long before they're actually worn out in a mechanical sense. They will start to not have good 'bite' and then the overall efficiency of the brakes kind of goes to hell with higher pedal pressures and inconsistent locking. If you're concerned with performance, change before then.
 

fatbillybob

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Iron discs (used on track) generally lose effectiveness long before they're actually worn out in a mechanical sense. They will start to not have good 'bite' and then the overall efficiency of the brakes kind of goes to hell with higher pedal pressures and inconsistent locking. If you're concerned with performance, change before then.
If you are experiencing that have a look at your pad temps for the job at hand. We see that when there is a temp mismatch or when there are pad transfer issues because people swap street pads and track pads back and forth for trackdays.
 

TeeLew

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If you are experiencing that have a look at your pad temps for the job at hand. We see that when there is a temp mismatch or when there are pad transfer issues because people swap street pads and track pads back and forth for trackdays.
That's a thing, too, but it's not what I'm talking about. Along these lines, I find you can put PFC pads over about anything and it'll be OK in a couple laps, but less aggressive pads over a PFC transfer layer doesn't work well at all. If you're running Hawk, Pagid, EBC, or whatever, you're better off making sure they are always used with at least a pad from the same family.

I find that even the best iron discs lose a significant amount of performance over the course of several weekends. They're fine for street use and for playing at the track, but best performance will be when new.
 

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I have never experienced that under race conditions on any rotors from oem to aftermarket to two piece.
 

TeeLew

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I have never experienced that under race conditions on any rotors from oem to aftermarket to two piece.
Different experiences / different results

It's definitely a thing, so if you happen to be having these braking issues & there's no other reasonable explanation, this might be it.
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